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Old 01-24-2012, 10:39 AM   #15
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1986 25' Sovereign
Plant City , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 TWind
They may just need time to "set in". When I installed new axles on my Trade Wind I was not happy with the brake performance. I check the adjustment twice. Full power with the brake controller just did not seem to provide much stopping power. But after about 200 miles of towing with a good number of stops I checked them again. Pulled the lever on the controller all the way over at about 25 MPH and wow, locked up all 4 wheels. May just need to give it some time before you get too deep in to solving a problem you may not really have to solve.
Great advice. I just hope I don't need to stop quickly during the first 200 miles. Lol
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:50 AM   #16
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Originally Posted by ck21084 View Post
The reading at each magnet is 3 amps.
I 'tink 'dat may be the problem....

Bob


Electromagnet Specifications
10 and 12 Inch Brake Drums Max Amps at 12-13 Volts
2 Brakes 7.5-8.2
4 Brakes 15.0-16.3
6 Brakes 22.6-24.5

7 inch Diameter Brake Drum Max Amps at 12-13 Volts
2 Brakes 6.3-6.8
4 Brakes 12.6-13.7
6 Brakes 19.0-20.6
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:27 AM   #17
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Corona , California
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Current electric brake adjusting screws have 8 notches.

The threads are 20 per inch.

Therefore, 8 clicks will move the adjuster 1/20 of an inch, 05 .050 of an inch.

Usually the brakes are adjusted by pull the wheel with one hand, so that it turns.

Then, turn the adjuster so that you cannot pull the wheel to make a circle, WITH ONE HAND, ONLY.

Then back off 5 to 6 notches or clicks.

If you hear any dragging, it won't be the shoes, but it will be the magnet dragging on the armature plate.

Andy
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