need to know the type of brake mfg i have. i have a 75 27' overlander. it has henschen axles dura torque and 12" drums. the bearing cover has a k/h stamped on it. i imagine it is kelsey hayes. round magnets. i believe it to be all original. i have talked to several people and no one seems to know if its dexter or another mfg.
i need to do the brakes at the campground i'm at asap but can't seem to get the correct info to order the right parts.
thank you
crowbar
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What parts do you need? If you need shoes and magnets, it will be easier, cheaper, and better to replace the entire loaded backing plate. That includes shoes, hardware, springs, and new design oval magnets. You will just ned to know if you have 12"x2", 12"x2 1/2", or 12"x3" shoes. Left and right are different, so make sure you get the right ones on the correct side. Also, if you replace one backing plate on an axle, you should replace the other one on the same axle.
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
thanx for the reply. i figure i would do the complete brake job. all new shoes and magnets. if i go to oval from round i would imagine i'd have to have drums turned for new magnets.
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" If everything is working, something is wrong ! "
thanx for the reply. i figure i would do the complete brake job. all new shoes and magnets. if i go to oval from round i would imagine i'd have to have drums turned for new magnets.
Changing magnets from round to oval causes no problems.
When you change backing plates, it's best to scuff the armature plate and the drum faces.
After the new backing plates are install then adjust the brakes.
Pull the tire thru with 2 fingers, no more. Adjust the brake up until you cannot pull the tire theu with the 2 fingers.
Then back off using the adjuster 3 to 5 notches, no more.
ok, but what manufacturer do i need to go w/ so it bolts up to my henschen axle? it seems to matter from some of the people i have talked w/ but can't seem to pin point that for me?
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" If everything is working, something is wrong ! "
They are pretty much standard RV and utility trailer brakes. You can remove one of the backing plates, with all its' hardware, in one piece, and take it with you to the store. You will need to unscrew the 4 nuts and bolts holding them to the axles, and disconnect the two wires from the braking system to the magnet.
When it is time to re-install the brakes, it doesn't matter which wire goes where on the magnet.
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
ok i can deal w/ that. i'm in the middle of no where and will probably do a mail order. any recomendations? i hear redneck trailer is good. maybe i have been getting bad info.
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" If everything is working, something is wrong ! "
ok i can deal w/ that. i'm in the middle of no where and will probably do a mail order. any recomendations? i hear redneck trailer is good. maybe i have been getting bad info.
Redneck is good, I've dealt with them before, although in person, not mail order.
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
ok i can deal w/ that. i'm in the middle of no where and will probably do a mail order. any recomendations? i hear redneck trailer is good. maybe i have been getting bad info.
We have the correct backing plates. Direct bolt up.
You also should probably change the shocks as well.
Crowbar - your original brakes should be Hayes 12/2 according to Airstream - they advised that's what they used in the 70's and what would be on our 71 at least.
I'd agree the full backer plates are the way to go - we looked into parts and the plates are much less expensive. The plates are a standard 5 bolt pattern. We ordered new backer plate bolts and nuts from Airstream. New shocks is a good point - we got those from Inland.
Getting to what size wasn't to bad but then the question came up of what rating plates you buy - 5200 or 7000 pound. I ended talking to two vendors - two people at Airstream and a tech. and two different engineers at Dexter. The consensus was 5200. Everyone thought 7000 would over brake the trailer and could cause lock up. My original thought was more braking the better - which I was wrong about.
He's were we purchased ours. If you order new shocks and/or bolts you may want to get grease seals while your at it. There's a good article on greasing bearings if you need it. Good luck...
appreciate the input gary. i think that is the path i'm heading down. will have to do a bit more shopping. i thought these trailor brakes where more or less generic. i should have known better. it's like chevy/ford, dexter/henschen. as it goes.
cb
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" If everything is working, something is wrong ! "
appreciate the input gary. i think that is the path i'm heading down. will have to do a bit more shopping. i thought these trailor brakes where more or less generic. i should have known better.
When it comes to Airstream trailers, the only thing generic about them, is the money it takes to keep them in shape.
A couple of exceptions, as an example, would be the water in the water tank, and the air in the tires.
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