Need advice on brake controllers.

[Flying-Steve]

I just bought a new 25' Flying Cloud that I'm planning on pulling with a Tundra with the big 5.7 Liter V8. The dealer says he'll install a controller, the Tundra is pre-wired for one. Question is how will I know if it is a decent brake controller, or should I just trust them to not low ball me and give me the cheapest controller out there? Doesn't seem like this is an area to scrimp on. And suggestions on where best on the Tundra to have it installed? Everyone says by your right knee, but I'm 6'5" and I'm not wanting to sacrifice one millimeter of knee room.

I'd appreciate any advice from you savy long time pullers of big trailers. We'll be using this rig lots in the mtns, and I feel perhaps a bit undersized on my tow vehicle even though it is rated for 10,600 lbs. And if any of ya'll are towing a 25' FC with a similar Tundra, I'd love to know what kind of mileage you're getting.

Thanks for helping a newbie.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, my trailer came with a Tekonsha Voyager. It was free and installed free. It worked well, but years later I wanted something better and with a digital read out so I could set it by numbers instead of by feel. The Tekonsha Prodigy has had great reports, but the Tekonsha P-3 was the newest and greatest, so I replaced the Voyager with a P-3. They aren't really that expensive. Ask them what model they are planning on installing and ask for a P-3 even if you have to pay extra. [my opinion]

[Phoenix]

Search for "brake controller" on this site: www.tundratalk.net

There are lots of photos of brake controller installations. Also, make sure the brake controller is compatible with the brakes on your Airstream. The Prodigy has been a reliable controller for years, but only works with electric brakes. If your Airstream has disc brakes, you may need a different model. However, Tekonsha is a good brand, and it is sold under several other names (I think ours is a Draw-Tite). However, the actual controller is identical, except for the logo and branding.

We have used a Tekonsha Prodigy since 2005, and it still works great. Also, we moved it from a 1978 Chevy pickup to our Tundra, in 2008; and it worked great in both vehicles.

The Tundra has a little cubby hole in the dash, near the gear shift (in the console). There's a little plastic pocket that pops out, and the Prodigy fits right in the hole. We didn't have to drill any mounting holes, and the wires route straight back to the brake controller connector that is behind the firewall cover behind the brake pedal. If you get the "Toyota harness" from Tekonsha, it's plug and play. I spent more time fiddling with routing the harness and trying not to break the tabs off of the little pocket (which we will probably never use again), than actually installing and hooking up the controller.

Personally, I'd purchase a controller and install it myself (it is so simple to do), and pocket the dealer markup. I think Prodigy's are a little under $100 right now on the Internet, maybe less. We paid about $75 for ours in 2005.

Note: I think the Tekonsha Voyager is a "time-delay" controller, which isn't quite as smooth as a Prodigy, which is "proportional" (I think the Prodigy contains electronic accelerometers). After the initial set-up, you won't even know the Airstream is behind you in normal braking.

In any case, I'd think this purchase through; because brake controllers last a long, long time. And, you don't want to be swapping out controllers after a couple of trips, because it doesn't work very well for you. The next model up, the Tekonsha P3, is only $20-30 more, I think, which is a small difference spread out over many years. (Just guessing at the price, I really don't know for sure.) However, if our Prodigy ever fails, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. We're very satisfied with the braking performance and reliability.

[jaygood31]

I have a Prodigy that I have had for about 6 years. It has been a great controller and I would not hesitate to purchase another or the newer replacement version.
as for placement, make sure it is easily accessible in an emergency for manual operation. I have only had to actuate my controller once in many years of towing but I would not have wanted to reach or fumble when I needed it.

Jay.

[ROBERT CROSS]

F & S.

Go with a quality name brand.

It is a pretty straight-forward install and if you DIY you will have the experience to do an emergency change out or diagnosis at some time down the road.

I'm biased...

Bob

[Steamy1]

A few comments from my experience; I considered the in-dash installation, and after seeing the pictures from others that took it on, I decided that taking apart the dash was something I was not comfortable in doing. So I went with the simple install under the dash. I purchased my unit through etrailer and watched the installation video. I have not ever come close to hitting it with my knee, but then again, I and not 6'5". Here is a picture.

[withidl]

I’ve never seen the controller that I use referenced on Air Forums, so here I go.

On my 2001 BMW X5 towing a 2002 ASCL 31’ CanAm RV installed a “Warner Brake Controller”; it has been trouble free in the 10 years and 35,000 miles I have towed.

The controller mounts directly on top of the brake pedal. It is spring loaded, hinging at the bottom where it is about 1” thick; at the top it is about 1 ½” thick. “Toeing” it at the top allows applying only the trailer brakes while “heeling” it at the bottom only applies the X5 brakes; so I have total flexibility in controlling the assembly without ever having to think about a separate controller mounted on the instrument panel (and cluttering the aesthetics of the X5). In an emergency I don’t have to give any thought to braking other than just mashing hard on the brake pedal, although through habit I always “toe” the brake pedal before/while I apply the brakes.

The wiring runs from the battery, through an auto resetting breaker, through the firewall, down the brake pedal arm to the controller, from the controller back up the brake pedal arm to the left rocker, along the left rocker to the back of the X5 where it “pins” into the 7 pin connector.

[Bob Thompson]

First, I would ask the Toyota dealer what brand and model of controller he would be installing.

For what it's worth, I have the Prodigy and am very pleased after using for about 12,000 miles.

[bike_addict]

Nice setup. I also bought a 25' Flying Cloud yesterday and will be pulling it with a '11 Tundra CrewMax with the 5.7.

I've got my walk thru and delivery scheduled for 10/4. My schedule just doesn't let me make the trek back to San Antonio from Houston until then.

They're putting in a Reese Digital brake controller and an Equiliser hitch. Are you adding a WD hitch?

Anyone have any feedback on the Reese Digital controllers?

Did you get the front bed model? If so do you have any mods planned for the bed? At 6'5" that is pretty small for you. It's barely big enough for me at 6'.

When are you scheduled to pick it up?

[phbarnhart]

Originally Posted by Phoenix

The Prodigy has been a reliable controller for years, but only works with electric brakes. If your Airstream has disc brakes, you may need a different model.

I don't think that's correct. I have a P3 and there is a setting that allows one to chose between "electric" and "hydraulic" so I'm thinking that It would be fine with hydraulic discs.

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by phbarnhart

I don't think that's correct. I have a P3 and there is a setting that allows one to chose between "electric" and "hydraulic" so I'm thinking that It would be fine with hydraulic discs.

You are both correct.

The earlier model Prodigy did not have an option for discs but the newer P3 does.

[phbarnhart]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

You are both correct.

The earlier model Prodigy did not have an option for discs but the newer P3 does.

Well that explains it!

[justbrian]

I just bought one of those shown on Steamy1's post. My '98 Dodge Ram was wired for 7 er whatever trailer brakes.
I bought the jumper to fit the wiring block to the controler...yeah, plugged right in, and to the controler.
The guy said don't install it where it blocks the vehical's diagnosis plug in as most end up doing.
I installed mine at the bottom of dash using the bracket shown using one factory screw hole and one I made. (quite sturdy) on the left side. I don't come near it and far form any cup holders too. ~Had the buggar installed in twenty minutes..sweet! Do it yourself if you have a wiring block to hook to...google it..my search spoke of a blue block and it was there.
I bought this pricey model and like it, but the guy said it didn't need to be installed within 20 degrees of level like the cheaper model did. But somewhere in the user manual it mentioned hill detection. lol, I ignored it and mounted at bottom edge of dash using the mount that swivels level or towards me.
Programmed proper boost for size trailer/set power around 6.7 and was golden. lol, now where's that hill?

[justbrian]

Well yeah...I had to look it up. I do have a Tekonsha P-3.
Correcting~ It says the front of the P-3 must be horizontal. And must be parallel to direction of travel.. for installation purposes.
But then it says~ "The P-3 will automaticlly acquire the proper level setting." and "It will also automaticlly adjust as you travel up or down hills."
Figure that one. The guy who sold me the unit did say it can be installed as Steamy1 has done. I put mine on the bottom justin case.

Mine was 180.00 + the price of the jumper which I think was 25.00 er so.

[star kitty]

I just purchased a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 liter engine. I tow a 20' Globetrotter that weighs less than 3000 lbs. You're not gonna like this but when I ask the engine to do some work, I was getting 4.5 mpg according to the on-board fuel computer.

Of course this was on grade in a higher rpm range but I'm averaging about 11 towing in Colorado. Don't worry....you will get 99 mpg going downhill!

I'm also not sure if there is room for a brake controller under the dash other than the right side. I installed mine after watching a Tundra video on you tube and copied them.

Good Luck.

[fmr.capt.evi]

I went with Reese, just because they had their slogan, "You CAN take it with you!", printed right on the face of the unit. It serves as a daily reminder to me to not live like my deceased father-in-law, who actually did figure out how to take some of it with him when he went.....

[Flying-Steve]

We'll do the walk through next week sometime. I've got to move tons of firewood from one fence to another to back this monster up between my house and the neighbor's fence. I'm in no hurry for that.

I noticed you are a bike addict. I added two Yakima bike holders to the front bed of the Tundra's bed yesterday. They were only $60 each, but I'll also most likely get the Thule boat rack. I can't imagine being in Minnesota and Wisconsin this summer with no boat. What other toys are possible to take?

We're going to take our first outing in October most likely to Inks Lake, my gal wants to see Hill Country.

What are your travel plans?

Originally Posted by bike_addict

Nice setup. I also bought a 25' Flying Cloud yesterday and will be pulling it with a '11 Tundra CrewMax with the 5.7.

I've got my walk thru and delivery scheduled for 10/4. My schedule just doesn't let me make the trek back to San Antonio from Houston until then.

They're putting in a Reese Digital brake controller and an Equiliser hitch. Are you adding a WD hitch?

Anyone have any feedback on the Reese Digital controllers?

Did you get the front bed model? If so do you have any mods planned for the bed? At 6'5" that is pretty small for you. It's barely big enough for me at 6'.

When are you scheduled to pick it up?

[Flying-Steve]

Originally Posted by Phoenix

Search for "brake controller" on this site: www.tundratalk.net

There are lots of photos of brake controller installations. Also, make sure the brake controller is compatible with the brakes on your Airstream. The Prodigy has been a reliable controller for years, but only works with electric brakes. If your Airstream has disc brakes, you may need a different model. However, Tekonsha is a good brand, and it is sold under several other names (I think ours is a Draw-Tite). However, the actual controller is identical, except for the logo and branding.

We have used a Tekonsha Prodigy since 2005, and it still works great. Also, we moved it from a 1978 Chevy pickup to our Tundra, in 2008; and it worked great in both vehicles.

The Tundra has a little cubby hole in the dash, near the gear shift (in the console). There's a little plastic pocket that pops out, and the Prodigy fits right in the hole. We didn't have to drill any mounting holes, and the wires route straight back to the brake controller connector that is behind the firewall cover behind the brake pedal. If you get the "Toyota harness" from Tekonsha, it's plug and play. I spent more time fiddling with routing the harness and trying not to break the tabs off of the little pocket (which we will probably never use again), than actually installing and hooking up the controller.

Personally, I'd purchase a controller and install it myself (it is so simple to do), and pocket the dealer markup. I think Prodigy's are a little under $100 right now on the Internet, maybe less. We paid about $75 for ours in 2005.

Note: I think the Tekonsha Voyager is a "time-delay" controller, which isn't quite as smooth as a Prodigy, which is "proportional" (I think the Prodigy contains electronic accelerometers). After the initial set-up, you won't even know the Airstream is behind you in normal braking.

In any case, I'd think this purchase through; because brake controllers last a long, long time. And, you don't want to be swapping out controllers after a couple of trips, because it doesn't work very well for you. The next model up, the Tekonsha P3, is only $20-30 more, I think, which is a small difference spread out over many years. (Just guessing at the price, I really don't know for sure.) However, if our Prodigy ever fails, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. We're very satisfied with the braking performance and reliability.

Great advice, I was wondering what to do with that cubby hole. And looks like enough others have used the prodigy that I'll let them install that one. I asked the salesman a few questions about the differing types of controllers and it appeared with very little reading I knew more than he. At least there were no horror story replies where someone was descending, they leaped and survived just at the right moment, but alas the rest of the family and rig were lost. I'm sure the first descent of a mtn. pass I'll feel a bit queasy.

Thanks for your thoughts, they were most helpful.

STEVE

[bike_addict]

Flying Steve, Inks Lake is a great park. I haven't camped there but I scouted it out awhile back for a tent camping weekend. Got a nice lake to swim, fish and canoe in. That's on our list for the AS.

I've currently got 4 of the Rocky Mount fork mounts in my truck bed that work great. I'm evaluating what I'm gonna do with the bikes with the AS so I have the bed available for dog kennels and firewood and stuff. I've been looking at that Thule height adjustable rack you're probably talking about. I could put the bike racks on it and maybe a kayak too. Also looking into the rack for the front frame of the AS above the tanks.

I can't go camping without either road bikes or mountain bikes or most often both. My wife rides as well so usually have 4 bikes with me. Not sure what kind of riding you do but if you enjoy the road then take your road bike to Inks Lake. They have some good roads to ride on right outside the park.

-Ronnie

[Phoenix]

To clarify, in our 2008 Tundra, the Prodigy is in the little pocket directly in front of the shifter, not in the larger pocket to the right. I'll try to post a photo tonight.

The Tundra 5.7L is great in the mountains. We travel in the Colorado Rockies alot, and it has absolutely no trouble towing our 19-foot Bambi up or down the long grades. In fact, other than width on some of the two-lane roads (like the road between Durango and Silverton), you don't even know it's back there. The engine/transmission computers won't let you downshift too far and damage anything; it just beeps to let you know "No, I don't think so".

Just try to use the engine/transmission for braking on the down grades to keep the brakes cool. And, uphill, just let the computer handling shifting and forget about what the engine and transmission are doing.