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Old 02-15-2016, 10:06 AM   #1
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1981 31' Excella II
Richmond , Texas
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magnetic brake actuator question

I was doing maintenance on our 1981 Excella II and discovered that the magnetic brake actuator is flush with the three screws that hold it together.
Is this normal or should the screws be recessed?

Also, any recommendations of a source for new ones would be appreciated.

Thanks for looking.

Bob and Gail
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31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

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Old 02-15-2016, 10:36 AM   #2
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I would think that magnet is worn out. The ones on our Avion are not that style, but anything worn down to the screws is not good.

I ordered brake assemblies from Southwest Wheel http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...ssemblies.aspx
They also sell individual parts for electric brakes.

Another source is etrailer.com https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes.aspx
Not sure if they sell individual parts or not.

If the brake assemblies on your trailer are worn, I wouldn't hesitate ordering the complete assemblies and replacing them. They are very easy to replace.
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:52 PM   #3
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As stated above that brake magnet is worn out. Not sure that style (round) is available either. The updated replacement would be oval in shape.

And as stated if the friction material is worn out as well you can be money ahead by buying a loaded assembly instead of pieces.

>>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:35 PM   #4
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You are right.....the round actuator is hard to find. Will start exploring replacing the whole assembly.

p.s. I compliment your taste in toys....In '68 I had a '66 Merc Colony Park wagon and in the 80s I had a '67 Linc conv.
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Bob (K5RPS) and Gail (MAAAA)

31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

"Ask the Man Who Owns One" (Packard, Of Course)
or
"Ask the Woman who lives with one...or more!" (Gail)
'
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:45 PM   #5
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Thanks!!! I have a couple of others not listed.

The round magnet was superceded by the oval magnet. Not sure how long ago and it may be a decade or more.

>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:35 AM   #6
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It would probably be a good idea to make sure your braking linings are not worn out also...If they are really worn badly, your bst bet is to replace the entire backing plate assembly. They come with all new components, (magnets, springs, linkage, and linings). The cost is considerably less than the individual components.
Depending on where you buy them they usually run from $75.00 to $90.00/wheel. It's a simple replacement, just cut the wires to the magnets, take the 4 bolts off and the old backing plate should come off easily.
Then, just reverse the procedure with the news one, connect your wires, get the brake spoon and adjust them, and you are good to go...
Good luck!

Larry
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:02 AM   #7
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If you have not already, take a look at the drums and make sure they are not badly scored. New magnets will not work well if they are.

As I understand it, it is getting harder and harder to find a shop that can re-surface brake drums. On a +35 year old rig would folks just recommend replacing them, if scored?
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:13 AM   #8
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Time you buy magnets and shoes, while your are in there, it is cheaper to by the complete backer plate.

12in. assemblies start at $32.00. Magnets often go for over $25.00

looks like you just got in there in time. The drum should be OK because the magnet is not deeply scored and the screws did not get to the drum yet.
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:34 AM   #9
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Complete brakes with new backing plates and magnets are about $. 58, easy bolt on...
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Time you buy magnets and shoes, while your are in there, it is cheaper to by the complete backer plate.

12in. assemblies start at $32.00. Magnets often go for over $25.00

looks like you just got in there in time. The drum should be OK because the magnet is not deeply scored and the screws did not get to the drum yet.
I am not familiar with your model A/S. I'm a "67 vintage guy. Just wanted to tell you that some 6 or 8 years ago, I had a brake adjuster retainer spring break while traveling. The pieces wedged under the brake shoe destroying it. Thankfully, there was a utility trailer manufacturer a few miles away who stocked Dexter brake assemblies. The new Dexter assy. bolted right on my Henschen axle and the 12" brake matched my old drum exactly. I bought 4 of them for a little less than $200. I didn't notice where you are located but you can order Dexter brake assys. from any Dexter distributor such as Newera in Taylors, SC or Red Neck Trailer Supplies in Lincolnton, NC. There is probably one near you.
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:24 PM   #11
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1981 31' Excella II
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Thanks for all the replies.
We are located just west of Houston, TX.
My research has found, as mentioned in the replies, that the logical step is replace the entire assembly.
Fortunately, the shoes are not down to the rivets, so my drums are OK.
This afternoon I visited my local trailer dealer and he said he can get these Kelsey-Hayes actuators...but they would cost $59.50 each, whereas, a standard Dexter assembly would be the same price.....and self-adjusting sets would be $79.
That seems to be a no-brainer to me.
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31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

"Ask the Man Who Owns One" (Packard, Of Course)
or
"Ask the Woman who lives with one...or more!" (Gail)
'
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:36 PM   #12
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1981 31' Excella II
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I understand the actuator was a Kelsey-Hayes.
I don't know if the backing plate is K-H or whatever..
I went to the local trailer shop and they carry Dexter products.
Can anyone tell me if the 5 hole pattern is industry standard...since 1981????
I am reluctant to take Ole81 over, and have it sit for an extended period of time while they search for replacement parts.
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Bob (K5RPS) and Gail (MAAAA)

31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

"Ask the Man Who Owns One" (Packard, Of Course)
or
"Ask the Woman who lives with one...or more!" (Gail)
'
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:34 PM   #13
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Looks like 4 bolts, will probably interchange, only takes 5 minutes to take off and see, 58$ here in billings....
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:10 PM   #14
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I should have clarified.....

The backing plate on Ole81 is a 5 lug and the bottom two are not evenly spaced.
Under normal conditions, it would be a trivial job to remove the 5 nuts...but these nuts have not been off since the rig was built. Needless to say...lots of rust, so extreme care must be taken to avoid rounding off the nuts.

Still anxious to hear if they swap out for Dexters....

Thanks for looking...
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Bob (K5RPS) and Gail (MAAAA)

31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

"Ask the Man Who Owns One" (Packard, Of Course)
or
"Ask the Woman who lives with one...or more!" (Gail)
'
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:15 PM   #15
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Here is a link to a picture I have added from the brake project I did.... http://www.airforums.com/photos/show...i=37483&c=3531

It is a 12" Dexter replacement, and you can see that the lower holes are not evenly spaced.
The replacements I ordered came with all new mounting hardware... nuts, bolts, lock washers.
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:30 PM   #16
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Many thanks...

for the reply and confirmation to what I had hoped.

We do appreciate it.

Many happy travels in your rig...

Bob and Gail
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Bob (K5RPS) and Gail (MAAAA)

31' 1981 Excella II
2001 F-250 7.3D Crew w/8'bed and Pullrite 180degree

"Ask the Man Who Owns One" (Packard, Of Course)
or
"Ask the Woman who lives with one...or more!" (Gail)
'
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:43 AM   #17
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To be absolutely sure of what you are ordering, I would suggest a phone call to either etrailer or Southwest Wheel and have them verify what you have and what you need.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:24 AM   #18
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I agree with what others have said about replacing the complete assemblies rather than messing with component parts.

In fact, we are on the road now for 7 weeks and I did just that at our last campground stop!

Took me the best part of a day to replace all four assemblies. Luckily we had quite a secluded site in a State Park so I wasn't annoying anyone - also made sure not to make a mess!

One thing I was glad to have along was an electric impact wrench - many of the securing bolts were heavily rusted - but thankfully they all came out intact although some were smoking from the friction when they came out!

I soldered the magnet wires and used waterproof shrink tube insulation - the type with the hot melt glue inside.

Brakes are a lot better now as we continue our journey!


One thing I found was that the stranded copper brake wires on the trailer were quite black with corrosion even when stripped back quite a bit - I have seen that before and I'm not sure why it happens.

My method to clean them up so they will accept solder is to splay the wires out and try to scrape them to bright copper all around with a craft knife. It still isn't as good as I would prefer but it works. Anyone know if there is a better way? I was wondering if the bare copper could be dipped in anything to better remove the black corrosion?

Brian.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
One thing I found was that the stranded copper brake wires on the trailer were quite black with corrosion even when stripped back quite a bit - I have seen that before and I'm not sure why it happens.

My method to clean them up so they will accept solder is to splay the wires out and try to scrape them to bright copper all around with a craft knife. It still isn't as good as I would prefer but it works. Anyone know if there is a better way? I was wondering if the bare copper could be dipped in anything to better remove the black corrosion?
This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.

Strip the wires to be cleaned.

Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find.

Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.

Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.

Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.

After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.

Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again

>>>>>>Action
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:20 AM   #20
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The wires were black ? Probably because they were hot a few times...
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