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Old 12-14-2006, 10:36 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
First, I know nothing about automotive anything. I can change the oil and wiper blades and that's about it! So please forgive my ignorance and my forgetfulness, but are the uneven ware pads on one of the tires that lost the lug studs? Could something have gotten bent when this occurred that caused a misalignment that would cause uneven pad wear?
No. Three of the 4 brake sets were worn oddly, and the only one that wasn't was on the side that lost a wheel. Rich says the pads were not replaced on that wheel at the time, all pads have been on the trailer since the Kodiaks were installed, and the one pad set that was not worn "funny" was on the axle that did not lose a wheel.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:39 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
better put a caliper on it!

I still think I'm going to use disks, I just wish someone made a nice 4 piston caliper that would fit with the 15" rims. Some Brembo's would be nice... 2air... better check to make sure those rims/ tires/ and brakes are still there on your s6! I'd love to see your track days. I used to run Solo II in my early college days (modified Civic Si).

I'd love to see a side/side comparo of the same size/weight trailer with drums and disks. I still contend that the overall function of the disks (pad life, heat dispersion, stopping distances) would work better with longer calipers (bigger pads) - but don't dispute that they're better than drums. I feel that some bean counters are making choices that put our running gear just past the horse/buggy age.

Marc
Marc, I spoke with Rich Saturday while we were doing the flight of the bumblebee looking for brakes, and he said the difference between the drums and discs was like night and day. Brake fade was horrible on the trailer when it had drums, and sometimes he wasn't sure he was going to be able to stop at the bottom of an off-ramp on the Interstate. He has none of those feelings now, the trailer stops really well now.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:43 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
As for the pads wearing quite a bit more on one side of the rotor than the other, This is a caliper slide problem. All moveing, metal to metal, parts need to be lubricated with silicone brake lube or, my favorite, Antiseize.

Bob
Bob, I checked the caliper slides, and did indeed find one that seemed stiff. All other slides worked smoothly and freely.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:48 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
As for the pads wearing quite a bit more on one side of the rotor than the other, This is a caliper slide problem. All moveing, metal to metal, parts need to be lubricated with silicone brake lube or, my favorite, Antiseize.

Bob
Bob, one of the slides was indeed a bit stiff, I commented on that to Rich at the time, but all other slides worked freely. Even in that one slide caused a problem, it should have been contained on that one wheel. The top of the padds were worn more than the bottom, and one end of the pada was worn more than the other. It could be the inner pad binding on application, I wish I had time to look further into it when it was here. Silicone brake lube is the best, antisieze can wash off in wet weather, leaving you with no lubricant on your bake parts.
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:06 AM   #33
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Hello over 63 ,

In the photos of Richs trailer where he is on the streetside dealing with the rotor install /stud thing ,the forward rotor has that dicoloration ,thats why
Ive mentioned it even in other threads on this because it caught my attention right away ,like wow those are getting pretty hot .I see that
type of coloring on overheated rotors ,and it would not be uncommon to
see that when hills and mountain driving are in the mix when towing ,but
it does cause me to immediately be concerned about overheated brakes.
I see blackish blueish grey type of discoloration,a mix of color really .you
should not be able to actually see the heating discoloration where
the pads are clamping .they should be shiny as normal .as far as 2airs brakes
,since he has three axles, the tires and the brakes are adequate for his trailer
tires are doing fine ,pad wear is good so thats somthing to think about ,as 6
calipars will be much better than four ,and the work they do is spread out to the 6 calipars instead of the 4 which in turn are doing more work with the
same size pads ,simple to understand that ,more people rowing the boat
,the less strain on each person rowing .some Brembos on that audi would
solve the pad issues by the way .

Scott
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:09 AM   #34
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Scott, on one of the posts above, we did a fast analasys of wieght per axle, and 2air's axle loading is within a couple hundred pounds of Rich's trailer per axle. We are thinking part of the difference may be Rich's tow vehicle is much smaller than 2air's (armada vs full-size F series).
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:14 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
better put a caliper on it!

I still think I'm going to use disks, I just wish someone made a nice 4 piston caliper that would fit with the 15" rims. Some Brembo's would be nice... 2air... better check to make sure those rims/ tires/ and brakes are still there on your s6! I'd love to see your track days. I used to run Solo II in my early college days (modified Civic Si).

I'd love to see a side/side comparo of the same size/weight trailer with drums and disks. I still contend that the overall function of the disks (pad life, heat dispersion, stopping distances) would work better with longer calipers (bigger pads) - but don't dispute that they're better than drums. I feel that some bean counters are making choices that put our running gear just past the horse/buggy age.

Marc
Marc,

I doubt if Uwe is monitoring this thread, but I know when he installed Dexter axles on his Overlander, he has disc brakes with double piston calipers and what appears to be huge rotors. PM him and ask.

Bill
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:26 AM   #36
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That would be a factor ,the better capable the TV brakes the less strain
on the trailers brakes .My disc change on the travelall has dramatically improved the overall braking ,but it was good before ,now I have a larger
margin of saftey and more confidence in the TV brakes .but again the brake effort and heating of the rotors is passed to 6 calipars not four ,less work
for each individual one .The brake pad size and limitations will present itself
as it has here on Richs trailer .Point is that the trailer needs to have
sustantially good brakes no matter if its TV an F series or IH series or nissan .
uneven pad wear and all these problems spell trouble .Ceramic pads that
are less affected by heat damage are indeed a better choice .they have
been known to squeek on some applications though ,so Ive used them on a limited basis ,my local carquest was touting them as oem on older vehicals
that did not ever offer them ,seems the bean counters that market the pads were trying to sell more ,like a 90 honda accord or 93 ford van ,did not
come with ceramic pads new ,but they were saying they were oem ,they have stopped that practice now and do sell them if a customer wants the upgrade for the honda or the ford van .

Scott
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:42 AM   #37
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Over 63 ,I reread your past post here on post #29 .interesting to note that
the good pads were on the rotor with the steel wheel ,the one that did not come off ,the other 3 did ,sheared the studs ,and had high pad wear and
uneven wear ,so then as I have been talking about ,high extreme heat on
those ,I have maintained the idea that the heat was indeed involved in the
studs failure and rotor heating .I know the general thought pervailing is the
studs were overtorqued as fact ,but Im not so sure Id go along with that
idea as a rule completely.I know I may get jumped on for that ,but look at all the
evidence we have here .I did post a thread about fasteners on another
axle thread with ARP Fasteners website and the identifying chart that shows
bolt /stud/fastener failures ,anyway ,the idea was to get folks to go and look at the chart and get some experience in determining the causes of these stud failures ,ARP does offer studs that far surpass the ones that come with these rotors they tell me .

Scott
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:30 PM   #38
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Again, not knowing what I'm talking about here, I have a question for my own benefit. Would the Ford's integrated brake controller have any affect on the wear of the disk? I know the disk system uses an electrical impulse from whatever brake controller to operate a hydraulic brake cylinder to apply the disk brakes, but just wondered if the integrated system that Ford uses in its Tow/Command brake controller was anymore accurate or affective in activating the hydraulic system. I don't know what type of brake controller Rich has or the basis of it's operation (inertia vs. some other intelligence system).
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Old 12-14-2006, 02:18 PM   #39
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photos can be misleading...

the tint of the rotors in rich's pics may not be how they look 2 the eye...
the camera, monitor and other things may alter the colors...
also he had had the lug nuts inspected in person by qualitifed eyes...over torqued is the verdict.

m'mate,
yes the controller matters somewhat...
especially how much boost is set...
also the towcommand allows abs function...nice

but other things like driving habits and routes matter...
clearly i'm a better driver than rich and his trips may be more stopngo...
while mine are longer or in less congested areas....
we both have a haha so trailer brakes need to be adjusted to avoid 'pushing'
armadad to f-250 may matter for other reasons too...
but there are so many variables that comparing my wear to his is tricky-tricky.

ok pics are for marc...
and 2 the real track stars here like jimmickle and denellen and others...
i am humbled in your exhaust cloud...
but i do love g forces...

cheers
2air'

ok first pic in the s curves, congested with little cars on the front and rear bumpers...
next lap i've cleared 'em out and have eyes on the black widow porsche...
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Old 12-14-2006, 05:05 PM   #40
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I read scottandlilly's post with interest - regards the GMC Dually problems with brake pads. To date I have about 54,000 miles on my 2003 GMC Dually with hardly a significant amount of wear visible on the pads. For the record, I drive with a light foot - but probably about 15,000 miles involved towing our 30' A/S - with a fair amount of mountain driving included. Love that Allison! Additionally, my '95 Chevy Silverado, with 139,000 miles on the odometer, is on its' original set of front discs and rear drums. As for the '93 Subaru, with the OEM pads all-around, it's probably good for another 100,000 miles!

Somewhat related to brake wear is the fact that the EPA is lowering the gas mileage figures for the 2008 automobiles (---by almost an average 15%) to more correctly reflect average (i.e. "realistic") driving habits.

My only point is that - where you live, and how you drive, may have more of an impact on brake pad life than the materials used in the pads. There are certainly those individuals whose driving needs demand the very best. Their experience can provide a valuable source of information for us more sedate types.
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Old 12-14-2006, 05:31 PM   #41
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Just curious?

Has anyone talked with Kodiak about Rich's brakes?

Just wondering?

Regards,
Henry
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Old 12-14-2006, 05:38 PM   #42
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I would stay with the organic pads, and replace them more frequently. When you go to semi-metallic and ceramic, you will be replacing rotors as well as pads.
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