My axle replacement and disc brake install has been on hold due to work, holidays, weather and conflicting schedules with my son and a neighbor who are going to help me with this project. At this point it looks like the the weekend of January the 10th before I can get started.
At this point it looks like I will be mounting the actuator in the center closet (drivers side) on the floor next to the wheel well. I can run all of my wires along the sides from the front 7 pin connector base back to the actuator. Then I should be bale to drill down through the flooring to run the bake line that connects to the actuator and then "T" off to the wheels from there. I plan on covering the brake line that goes through the floor with a rubber type hose for protection.
Any thoughts on this approach.
Thanks Don
Don.
Excellent choice.
1. It will be out of the weather.
2. Your neighbor, who may also want disc brakes, cannot easily remove the actuator for his use. Theft will be difficult.
I've logged onto Actibrakes web site and it shows adohn's top picture as Version 1 and bottom picture as Version 2. Selecting models on web site shows three types of Version 2, the latest model.
We've two broken Version 1's and one broken Version 2 - see trailer brake problems.
Regards, John
Mine looks like the one in the bottom picture (a replacement unit to the one that failed.) It is mounted in the space under the couch in the front of the trailer. The unit sits in a metal tray to hold any fluids that may leak out.
I think I have decided to mount the Actuator in the small cabinet along the drivers side in front of the wall between the Refrigerator. I looked at the possibility of the "A" frame mounting but I just don't have enough room behind the propane tanks. By putting it in the cabinet I have a fairly short wire run and access to the outside through the bottom vent behind the fridge for the brake lines. I modified the shelve in the cabinet so that I can remove a section and have full access to actuator for any service. I am also going to make an opening the wall with a cover so that I can also get to the actuator from the outside through the frfg compartment door if need be. Here are a couple of pictures that shows what I am thinking about. I have decided against the closet for several reasons.
In looking over the brake line kit from Bludot for a tandem torsion axle there were 3 brass "T' included, each with 2 female connections for the male connections on the brake lines and one female connection for the flexible hose that connects to the wheel. In the attached schematic that came with the kit it shows line "1" from the actuator going to the first "T" and the flexible hose is connected to the first wheel at this junction. Then a line is run from the "T" to the other side of the trailer to another "T" where the 2nd wheel is connected by the flexible hose. A short line is then connected to the "T" and runs to another "T" on the same side where the 3rd wheel is connected. Then a line is connected to this "T" and runs back across the trailer and connects directly to the 4th wheel. This set would would match the parts that I received with the Bludot kit.
But from some of the other disc brake threads it looks like the brake line layout is different than the one above. It appears that the line from the actuator connects to a "T" with 3 female connections and then 2 lines run from this 1st "T" to each side of the trailer to 2 other "T" with a short line to the other wheel on the same side of the trailer The wheels are then connected by the flexible hose.
Don, That's actually my layout. I too started with the Bludot kit and quickly found that I did not like their proposed layout because of space constraints on my 32' Excella (working around the grey and fresh water tanks). So I modified the layout to what you see on the pictures. I did wind up buying additional standard length brake lines at the local auto store and it worked out just great. Either layout will work since its a hydraulic system. I just like mine because it's "balanced" in terms of brake line lengths. This is a minor point for these systems. Let me know if I can help on other questions. Good luck. Doug
1) My Actibrake instructions call for #10 wire. 30 amps required.
2) All the connections need to be really solid and tight. I understand micro ohms of resistance will upset the Actibrake.
3) Brakeaway hot wire goes to the hot side of the A/S batteries. I did mine at the fuse box which is in the front center of the A/S, close to the Actibrake.
4) Be sure to unplug the umbilical first, then the breakaway. Just like if your truck leaves with out the A/S, the brakeaway cable pulls after the truck leaves. Hitching up, plug in the breakaway first, then do the umbilical. Book says it really upsets the Actibrake if you pull the breakaway with the umbilical plugged in. When I pull the pin on the breakaway cable to loop it through the bumper, I have an automatic test on the system, the Actibrake does its noise while I'm plugging it back in. Also works to use it for bleeding the brakes by yourself.
5) It's a great feeling to be pulling down your speed of the A/S and the truck, even full stop by pushing the manual switch on the controller of your disc brakes on the steep. You KNOW the trailer brakes are working.
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Couple of questions. The wiring harness connection for the Actibrake actuator has alignment slots and a 1/4" set screw to attach to the back of the actuator. I am correct that the connection can not simply be pushed in all the way without tightening the 1/4" set screw.
Also the brake line kit came with a small brass male/female connection that looks like it would be used at the bake line connection at the actuator. Am I correct that this is not needed with the Actibrake since it appears that the connection is the same size on the actuator as the bake line.
This morning we are connecting the 5 wires from the Actibrake. Trying to sort out the connection points in the 76 Airstream and converting the wire colors used at that time Blue 12 v yellow brakes. does anyone have a description of where you connected the wires coming from the actibrake.
After going over the wiring digram and Actibrake instructions and the service manual for my 1976 A/S we finally came to a conclusion on the connections points from the actuator to the trailer. The 76 A/S still has the old standard wiring position and wire colors before the universial 7 pin standard came about. So we had to mach up the correct color and psoition from the old standard. Although the 76 service manaul helped a lot, some of the wire colors after the old seven pin connection cahged which was not noted in the sevice manyal. But after all connection were made and the trailer disconected from the TV, pulled break away pin and the actiabrake pump started and we were able to bleed the brakes lines. Refilled the actuator we new brake fluid. All connections tight no leaks. By this time it was 5:45PM and the sun going down. Will mount the wheels tomorrow, check out the new P3 break controler and try a test drive. For now its "Jim Beam" time.
Don, sounds like good success. The wiring colors takes patience to sort it all out, but sure sounds like you got it. "Toast one for me". Looking forward to hearing how the test run goes.
Doug
I posted the information below on the Axle forum section and I want to bring everything current on my thread hear on the brake forum section as well.
The Kodiak disk brake are great. Wow what a difference.
The axle and disc bake job is complete on my 1976 31' Sovereign. The entire process from removing the old axles to the first test drive took 3 days. Removing the old axles and installing the new ones only took about 3 hours. Had a couple of bolts that were really hard to remove but they finally broke free. The main tools needed that I had to gather up ahead of time are a couple of bottle jacks, a floor jack, jack stands, air wrench/compressor, furniture dollies (rented from U-haul), assorted box end wrenches/sockets and a 1/2" 18' socket breaker bar came in handy on those tough bolts. If anyone within driving distance to the Houston area is planning an axle replacement don't go out and buy this things, you can borrow them from me. Just come pick them up and bring them back.
The new Henschen axles fit right in the same spot that the old ones came out of and bolted right in. It does not get any easier than this. Once the bolts are out the old axles are lowered with the floor jack. The new ones are lifted in place with the floor jack as well. Put in the new bolts and you are done. The old axles were shot. The torsion arm was frozen in the level position on both axles. No drop at all when I jacked up the trailer and in this condition you can see how rough the ride was. In the end, the height of my trailer increased almost 3" with the new axles.
The time consuming part was installing the disc brakes, running the brake lines, installing and wiring the actuator. Once all of that was done the final steps were to bleed the brakes and reinstall the wheels, plus install the new P-3 brake controller.
No real problems in the entire process with 2 helpers . The main concern was wiring the actuator back through the connection box at the inside of the trailer. This looked like a birds nest with many different colored wires. Plus working with 3 sets of wiring colors and standards you have to make sure the right wire is connected to the right point. The instructions from Actibrake references their 5 wires connecting to color coded wires in the current universal 7 way connector standard. But the standard was different back in 1976 so the position of the wires, purpose and color was different. Since you can't go by colors you need to trace the actual wire to the right source. I am glad I have the 1976 service manual that had good illustrations on the connections. In the end the right connections were made and the actuator powered on when the break away pin was pulled. After installing the P-3 controller it also checked out as well
The 1st test drive was great. I adjusted the new P-3 brake controller at and empty parking lot down the street from me based on the instructions that came with the unit. Everything checked out so I took off over some city streets and high ways with various road conditions and stops and turns. The first thing I noticed was the braking with the disc brakes. Unbelievable response, smooth as silk. The ride was also very noticeably better. No hard bouncing up and down from riding on the old locked axles. I left a plastic box sitting on the kitchen counter and it was still there after the drive. I am very pleased with the Henschen axles and Kodiak disc brakes. Thanks everyone for your responses and help during the project. Also for thanks to Andy and Greg at Inland RV for helping with my order and answering all of my questions. Great service.
Rather than post individual pictures I have attached a pdf file with install pictures. I can post any individual pictures if needed.
Don
1976 31' Sovereign new Henschen Axles and Kodiak disc brakes
Thanks for all of your narrative and progressive photos of your axle and brake replacement. I have been considering disk brakes for our 2005 and this helps in understanding what is required. I'll keep a copy of this if I need further info from you on your experiences. Well done!
After the busy weekend installing the axles and disc brakes I only had time for a short test run on Tuesday before taking the trailer back to storage. Everything appears to be fine and I am looking forward to bringing the trailer home again this weekend. I need to finish up some loose ends on some remodeling that I am doing in the kitchen area and get everything back together before I leave for the Vintage Airstream rally in San Antonio starting next Wednesday. I will also do a longer test run as I bring the trailer home on Friday afternoon.
I read that you should bleed the brakes again after the 1st 100 miles. I plan on doing that before I leave for the Vintage rally. Are there any other "break in" steps that need to done with the new Kodiak brakes before I start out on an extended trip.
Before you leave on the trip give the lug nuts a check just to be sure. And you might recheck tire pressue.
Otherwise there is no break in for axle assemblies or disc brake lining.
>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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The Kodiak disk brakes are working great. We just got back from the Texas Vintage Airstream Rally in San Antonio. The difference from the electric brakes was noticeable. Very smooth proportional stopping at slow and higher speeds. One question One the Actibrake actuator. When you apply the brakes you can hear the pump come on from several feet away. Is this normal
The Kodiak disk brakes are working great. We just got back from the Texas Vintage Airstream Rally in San Antonio. The difference from the electric brakes was noticeable. Very smooth proportional stopping at slow and higher speeds. One question One the Actibrake actuator. When you apply the brakes you can hear the pump come on from several feet away. Is this normal
Thanks
Don
Yes and no. Depends on where you mounted the actuator.
We suggest that it should be mounted inside the trailer.
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I too started with the Bludot kit and quickly found that I did not like their proposed layout because of space constraints on my 32' Excella (working around the grey and fresh water tanks). So I modified the layout to what you see on the pictures. I did wind up buying additional standard length brake lines at the local auto store and it worked out just great. Either layout will work since its a hydraulic system. I just like mine because it's "balanced" in terms of brake line lengths. This is a minor point for these systems. Let me know if I can help on other questions. Good luck. Doug
Kodiak Disc Brake installed with pictures
Linear Mode
