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Old 12-07-2008, 08:32 PM   #15
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Addidtional info on my situation: The Prodigy controller does not indicate a connection, and there is no braking system activation; however the trailer exterior lights being fed through the connector do work. I have not checked the voltage at the plug on the tow vehicle.
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Old 12-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #16
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hmmm,, try spraying some wd40 at the metal pins and slots to clean up the connections.

Another thought... 1) check your trailer ground for a good connection. 2) If you haven't used the trailer for awhile, is your trailer battery charged? However, the Prodigy should still show a connection... so maybe the battery isn't the culprit.

Good luck!
Marc
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:38 PM   #17
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Thanks. I will try the WD40. And, we've been to that Paul Bunyon and his blue ox!
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwp99 View Post
I'm posting this because I'm not comfortable with the reliability of the Kodiak system...
Other than the one time where the actuator was replaced, under warranty, have you had any other issues with the Kodiak brake system. It sounds like the problem you are having now may be a batter or controller problem.

Thanks

Don
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Old 12-08-2008, 06:37 PM   #19
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Operator error...

Update on my Kodiak installation:

Marc: I applied WD40 - there is now a good connection and the brakes are functioning. (Operator error!) Thanks!

Don: Other than the actuator replacement, which Kodiak responded to promptly, the system has been great. Much better than the drum brakes, especially when coming down a mountain road. The stopping action is much smoother with none of the lurching experienced with the original drum brakes. It is definitely a change that I'd recommend.

Re: controller. The Prodigy was installed when I bought the trailer. When the Kodiak was being investigated after the failure, the dealer received assurance from Kodiak that it was an acceptable controller. If there had been any question, I would have replaced it.

To all: The reason for my initial response to this stream was the similar sympton to the initial failure, and wanting to hear if others had similar experiences. The first failure occurred when leaving a campground driving 10 mph. I didn't want to be driving down a mountain pass during the next failure. In this case, the Kodiak system was fine. It was "my" problem of not checking the connector. Fortunately, the WD40 solved the problem, and is a lesson to remember! I appreciated the helpful advice and hopefully haven't given anyone an incorrect impression of the Kodiak system.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:58 AM   #20
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follow-up on axle/disc brake install

Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh View Post
I am going to revisit my earlier question on where to mount the actuator in my 1976 31' Sovereign, center bath.
My axle replacement and disc brake install has been on hold due to work, holidays, weather and conflicting schedules with my son and a neighbor who are going to help me with this project. At this point it looks like the the weekend of January the 10th before I can get started.

At this point it looks like I will be mounting the actuator in the center closet (drivers side) on the floor next to the wheel well. I can run all of my wires along the sides from the front 7 pin connector base back to the actuator. Then I should be bale to drill down through the flooring to run the bake line that connects to the actuator and then "T" off to the wheels from there. I plan on covering the brake line that goes through the floor with a rubber type hose for protection.

Any thoughts on this approach.

Thanks Don
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh View Post
My axle replacement and disc brake install has been on hold due to work, holidays, weather and conflicting schedules with my son and a neighbor who are going to help me with this project. At this point it looks like the the weekend of January the 10th before I can get started.

At this point it looks like I will be mounting the actuator in the center closet (drivers side) on the floor next to the wheel well. I can run all of my wires along the sides from the front 7 pin connector base back to the actuator. Then I should be bale to drill down through the flooring to run the bake line that connects to the actuator and then "T" off to the wheels from there. I plan on covering the brake line that goes through the floor with a rubber type hose for protection.

Any thoughts on this approach.

Thanks Don
Don.

Excellent choice.

1. It will be out of the weather.

2. Your neighbor, who may also want disc brakes, cannot easily remove the actuator for his use. Theft will be difficult.

Andy
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:01 PM   #22
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What is the difference between the two styles of Actibrake actuators shown below. The first picture is the one shown on their web site.

Don
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:09 PM   #23
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What is the difference between the two styles of Actibrake actuators shown below. The first picture is the one shown on their web site.

Don
The top photo's are the new model.

The workings are the same.

Andy
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:52 PM   #24
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I've logged onto Actibrakes web site and it shows adohn's top picture as Version 1 and bottom picture as Version 2. Selecting models on web site shows three types of Version 2, the latest model.

We've two broken Version 1's and one broken Version 2 - see trailer brake problems.
Regards, John
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:54 PM   #25
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Mine looks like the one in the bottom picture (a replacement unit to the one that failed.) It is mounted in the space under the couch in the front of the trailer. The unit sits in a metal tray to hold any fluids that may leak out.
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:49 PM   #26
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I think I have decided to mount the Actuator in the small cabinet along the drivers side in front of the wall between the Refrigerator. I looked at the possibility of the "A" frame mounting but I just don't have enough room behind the propane tanks. By putting it in the cabinet I have a fairly short wire run and access to the outside through the bottom vent behind the fridge for the brake lines. I modified the shelve in the cabinet so that I can remove a section and have full access to actuator for any service. I am also going to make an opening the wall with a cover so that I can also get to the actuator from the outside through the frfg compartment door if need be. Here are a couple of pictures that shows what I am thinking about. I have decided against the closet for several reasons.

Don
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:39 PM   #27
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In looking over the brake line kit from Bludot for a tandem torsion axle there were 3 brass "T' included, each with 2 female connections for the male connections on the brake lines and one female connection for the flexible hose that connects to the wheel. In the attached schematic that came with the kit it shows line "1" from the actuator going to the first "T" and the flexible hose is connected to the first wheel at this junction. Then a line is run from the "T" to the other side of the trailer to another "T" where the 2nd wheel is connected by the flexible hose. A short line is then connected to the "T" and runs to another "T" on the same side where the 3rd wheel is connected. Then a line is connected to this "T" and runs back across the trailer and connects directly to the 4th wheel. This set would would match the parts that I received with the Bludot kit.

But from some of the other disc brake threads it looks like the brake line layout is different than the one above. It appears that the line from the actuator connects to a "T" with 3 female connections and then 2 lines run from this 1st "T" to each side of the trailer to 2 other "T" with a short line to the other wheel on the same side of the trailer The wheels are then connected by the flexible hose.



You can see what I mean from the pictures in the follow post.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...6&postcount=17

Am I missing something.

Don
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:16 PM   #28
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Either way works

Don, That's actually my layout. I too started with the Bludot kit and quickly found that I did not like their proposed layout because of space constraints on my 32' Excella (working around the grey and fresh water tanks). So I modified the layout to what you see on the pictures. I did wind up buying additional standard length brake lines at the local auto store and it worked out just great. Either layout will work since its a hydraulic system. I just like mine because it's "balanced" in terms of brake line lengths. This is a minor point for these systems. Let me know if I can help on other questions. Good luck. Doug
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