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Old 04-22-2009, 07:01 AM   #1
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2007 30' Classic S/O
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Hydraulic/Disc brake problem

2007 30' Classic
This coach was purchased new and there have been intermitten problems with the brakes dragging and eventually locking up on the street side rear. The calipers, rotors and pads had to be replaced on that side. Of the four pads two had seperated one of the pads was riding on the outside of a rotor the other had completly disintegrated with the metal backing plate grinding into the inside of that rotor. The dealer had installed a Primus brake controller telling us that it was the one to use. The actuator is a Actibrake that was of course installed by Airstream. Since the repairs I have been using a Hensley tru control and the brake dragging is starting to reoccur. The repairs were made in Feb. 09.
Are these problems common to this system? Is the Actibrake actuator at fault? Is the brake controler at fault?
I do know that having a brake lock up going 55 miles per hour on a two lane road is an exciting experience that I do not want to experience again.
I do know that the actuator will operate intermittenly with the truck running with no pressure at all on the brake pedal.
I would certainly appreciate any advice or suggestions that would resolve this problem.
Hugh Ridenour
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:26 AM   #2
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The Tekonsha P4 and Hayes Genesis are the only brake controllers that won't pulse the actuator. Are all the brakes activating, or just one wheel?
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
The Tekonsha P4 and Hayes Genesis are the only brake controllers that won't pulse the actuator. Are all the brakes activating, or just one wheel?
We have no way to know if one wheel is braking or all four.
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flantiquer View Post
We have no way to know if one wheel is braking or all four.
Brake test.

When moving at about 30 MPH, hit the brake controller, with vigor.

If one brake is out, on either side, when the brakes are applied it will make your tow vehicle want to turn.

This applies to a single, tandem as well as a tri-axle trailer.

As an example, if one brake is out on the curb side, the road side brakes will push the back of your tow vehicle to the left. That will make the front of your tow vehicle, turn to the right.

When making that test, apply a large amount of brakes.

You might be amazed as to what that simple test will demonstrate.

Andy
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:12 PM   #5
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Brakes/Brake Controller/Actuator

Airstream said to use the Hayes Genesis, so we bought one and put it on. It runs constantly. We took it back thinking it was defective. Put the second one on and at first it was fine. Decided to take the Airstream for a run around the block to see if the brakes were going to work and before we got out of the yard, they started running on their own without pressing the brake. It took unplugging the 7-pin plug before they would stop running. What's going on? We can't go anywhere until this problem is fixed. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:50 PM   #6
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Did you sync the Brake Controller and the Acti-Brake?

This is done by running your gain(boost) in my case to maximum and manually activating the brakes fully three times. You do this parked of course.
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:32 AM   #7
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Conversion kit for drum brakes.

Hi, I was told that Science Diet was the best dog food made, but if my dog won't eat it, then it's not the best for him. What does this have to do with brakes? Well I have heard from so many people how much better disc brakes on Airstreams are than drum brakes; But if they don't work, and I have read many complaints similar to your's, then the old fashion drum brakes is the way to go. [My opinion]

Disc brakes:

(1.) Lug nut studs breaking off.

(2.) Caliper bolts coming loose.

(3.) Cheap original brake pads.

(4.) Actuator leaking.

(5.) Actuator working intermittantly.

(6.) Charge line on GM vehicles has dummy fuse, affecting Actuator operation.

(7.) Low battery Affecting Actuator operation.

(8.) Brake controller not compatable with disc brake Actuator.

(9.) Actuator company out of business.

(10.) Disc brake delay affecting Hensley Arrow [bump] operation.

(11.) Disc brakes save the day [false] for drivers who don't down shift their transmissions on down grades to prevent brake overheat and failure.

(12.) Necessary to sync the controller with the actuator.

Drum brakes:

(1.) Have less, but enough stopping power.

(2.) Don't work well when submerged in water.

(3.) Drums are not balanced. (Centramatics]

(4.) Will fade if overheated. [Try down shifting your transmission and adjusting your brake controller properly]

(5.) Will work with vertually all brake controllers. [better with some]
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:05 AM   #8
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flantiquer,

Had the same problems with our 2007 25' Classic. The post "Trailer Brake Problems" might help in some way.

There is another recent post regarding brake hoses. I have had one hose so badly kinked that I couldn't bleed that wheel until it was straightened. Trapped brake fluid in the hoses could be something to look at. Took this photo this morning. The hose is clearly too short with a sharp bend at the caliper end. Imagine that hose when the wheel hits a bump!

I'm inclined to agree with Robertsunrus - disc brakes don't work for me.
Two years on and still having problems.

John in the UK
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:35 AM   #9
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flantiquer,

We have our Hayes Genesis set @ l0% initial braking and 50% inertia. Check your output from truck socket blue wire, think it's pin 2.

John in the UK
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:11 AM   #10
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UPDATE: Airstream overnighted another Actibrake actuator and it was replaced and it appears to have taken care of the brake problems! Sure hope this is the end of the brake problems! Thanks for all your suggestions.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:58 PM   #11
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Since brakes are such an important topic - I was wondering if my newly-purchased 28' 2000 Excella has drum or disc brakes.
It sounds like there is some discussion about which system is best. Also does anyone know if there is a conversion kit to go with disc brakes?

Mahalo, Carl
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:03 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by hawaiicarl View Post
Since brakes are such an important topic - I was wondering if my newly-purchased 28' 2000 Excella has drum or disc brakes.
It sounds like there is some discussion about which system is best. Also does anyone know if there is a conversion kit to go with disc brakes?

Mahalo, Carl
Aloha Carl.

What kind of conversion kit are you asking about?

From disc brakes to electric brakes?

Or, electric brakes to disc brakes?

The disc brakes, are by far the best.

I will be in Oahu tomorrow, for a few days.

Mahalo.

Andy
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:37 PM   #13
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Hydraulic Brake Line Problems

I installed a disc brake kit using the Kodiak brakes and a universal line kit. Being a manufacturing engineer might have helped but first, the flex lines on this kit used a ridged 90 on the end to connect to the caliper. So no kinked hoses and then I used a plastic spiral rap on the flex lines to prevent chaffing the rubber hoses. I chose to install lines next to the frame and behind the shocks to prevent any chance of tire abrasion. And of course the layout of the hoses is important that they can move with the action of the suspension system. I can't say that I would approve of the AS layout after seeing the pictures and mechanical s. But I did look over their installation before I did my kit install and copied their actuator location and line layouts to the axles, using a Y layout, down the center, split to each axle pair.

I used a kit from Andy's and only the Hydraulic line layout was not documented in any way. They send the lines and then you've got to figure out to make your particular AS layout work, But I did E-mail and get answers when I needed them.

Three years and not a problem.
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WK57ABF View Post
flantiquer,

Had the same problems with our 2007 25' Classic. The post "Trailer Brake Problems" might help in some way.

There is another recent post regarding brake hoses. I have had one hose so badly kinked that I couldn't bleed that wheel until it was straightened. Trapped brake fluid in the hoses could be something to look at. Took this photo this morning. The hose is clearly too short with a sharp bend at the caliper end. Imagine that hose when the wheel hits a bump!

I'm inclined to agree with Robertsunrus - disc brakes don't work for me.
Two years on and still having problems.

John in the UK
We just came back from a 600 mile round trip, new TPMS helped me spot a HOT wheel, roughly 20 deg or so hotter than the other 3, CURB REAR. Checked with infrared temp gun, rotor was hot, hub just a bit warmer than others and definite smell of brake pad. Pulled wheel in route, checked pads, cleaned pad contact ears, touch of lube, continued trip. I didn't see anything to account for the problem until John's picture of his hose, mine looks the same line seems veunerable to a pinch under correct conditions. More to investigate, buts looks spooky similar.

Thanks for the check here John.

Gary
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