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Old 03-21-2013, 06:08 AM   #15
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Brake pictures. The pad and caliper pic is from my rig with my revised brake hose with steel tube end. and the other photo (shows tire) is from a trailer that just got the AS revision, also uses the steel tube and nut. I connected direct to the caliper M10 Bubble, AS continued to use the adaptor M10 Bubble to 3/16" inverted flare. In the top pic the pad retaining pin is visible just below the center of the pic with the pin retainer on the LH end.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:31 AM   #16
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KJRitchie,

Any news? Did you buy?

Gary
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:11 PM   #17
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We picked our new to us 2008 Classic 25fb yesterday. With the knowledge obtained from Airforums I was able to get the Dexter controller thrown into the deal! The dealership performed the hydraulic lines recall and even though the Actibrake controller passed the "drill a hole test" recall I insisted the controller be replaced with a Dexter unit.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Kelvin
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:42 AM   #18
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Kelvin,

That's good news and hope all goes well with the rig.

So how would you describe the electric over hydraulic brakes to a potential buyer now?
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:45 PM   #19
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I don't know if I have enough experience. My only trailer experience so far is my 17 Casita. The brakes were grabbing and making noises so I had a set of Nev-R-Adjust with new magnets installed. However, even with the brakes manually adjusted I can't get a the brakes to lock up even with the Prodigy 2 manual control on the highest setting. I'm having the technician check everything again on the Casita brakes.

i use the same controller on the Airstream on Saturday and while driving around the streets of North Fort Worth the braking was not effective slowing down to an intersect on a slight down hill. I bumped up the controller to about 6.5 and one boost setting and that seemed better. I'm still not sure if the brake controller is set correctly. You are supposed to drive 25mph and then hit the manual control. If the brakes lock up then reduce the setting and retry until you get to the point were the brakes don't lock up. That is the only thing I think the PDI should cover more is the brake controller adjustment.

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Old 04-01-2013, 02:14 PM   #20
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I think that "lock up at 25 mph" advice is tilted heavily toward drum brake adjustment. Discs just don't lock up as abruptly, though you should be able to adjust the controller so it locks them.

The boost setting (on my P3 at least) seems to be more about how much braking force it applies immediately when you touch the brake pedal rather than what it does to the total gain voltage, but it may be doing both... I'm not certain about the whole "boost" setup, but I do know I prefer to have boost 1 set on the highway, but have it off around town.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:12 AM   #21
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Kelvin,

Anybody around you that has a tow vehicle with a Maxbrake in it? Any chance to do a test drive with it?

My experience is limited to the Maxbrake only.

On our last trip out approaching a busy intersection multilanes, retail all around I hit the dreaded spot when the light changed DO I STOP OR RUN? I was right at that decision spot and now or never. I chose the brakes. Did not reach for the controller I don't think that is a correct choice, applied the brakes with a firm strong application. My rig stopped a foot or two over the paint stripe, in control and smooth. I feel that my disc brakes and Maxbrake have made for a smooth strong braking package. And I have previously posted about my .02$ and observations about "hydraulic delay" on my rig, almost nothing.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:04 PM   #22
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I never heard of Maxbrake until I started frequenting the Airforums. I'll check them out if I feel the Prodigy P2 is not working. In the short trip from dealer to storage, 60 miles, I wasn't aware of any delay. I know I apply the manual lever on the P2 controller when just creeping along the trailer brakes seem to react instantaneously. This is with a new Dexter actuator.

Kelvin
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:08 PM   #23
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How do you know the brake controller is adjusted correctly. When the controller is adjusted correctly is the braking supposed to be like it is when driving the tow vehicle solo or do you have to press harder on the brake pedals even if the controller is set correctly. It always seems I have to press the brakes on the tow vehicle harder. I have my Prodigy P2 set to about 7 with 1 boost. When I pull the manual lever the trailer seems to pull back on the TV when I at about 20 to 25mph.

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Old 04-14-2013, 12:44 AM   #24
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I don't know how much this differs for disc brakes, since they don't lock up so easily.

Generally you want the controller at full manual application to ALMOST lock the wheels at 25-30. With drums, you want to have driven some and applied the brakes several times before running this test so the brakes aren't cold but aren't overheated. I'm guessing that the "warm up" part of it won't particularly matter to a disc system. On a cool day it might make a difference if the tires are warm vs. cold, but above freezing that shouldn't make a huge difference.

With my Prodigy P3 set at boost-1 (on my drum system), I feel the trailer dragging as soon as I touch the brake pedal, but it takes a little deceleration from the truck brakes to set off the controller's accelerometer and really clamp the trailer brakes. I suspect that's similar to the result you want with discs as well, so finding the gain setting where it will just barely lock the trailer brakes at max manual application at 25-30 mph and then backing off that a bit is a good place to start. Remember it'll almost never apply that much voltage when you're stopping with the brake pedal, just when you're using the manual control.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:27 PM   #25
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Who sends you these recalls ? I have a 2005 Classic and the brakes have a lag between the tow vehicle and the trailer The brakes work fine once they are applied but there is defintly a time laps between trailer and tow vehicle . I called AS once and they just blew me off .
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:48 PM   #26
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Now that I have a few towing miles under my belt I've noticed the lag with the disc brakes. I've got a Dexter actuator. I've got a Tekonsha Prodigy 2. I've set it with Boost 2 now to see if the trailer brakes will activate differenty. I don't feel its unsafe, the trailer brakes will activated in a panic stop, its just when braking from a cruising speed I feel the TV brakes are doing all the work.

Kelvin
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:55 PM   #27
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I also have a P2 controller and the Dexter actuator. My opinion on the lag is that the motor has to pump up the master cylinder in the actuator to a given pressure before the trailer brakes take effect. Initial voltage to the pump occurs the instant the brake light circuit becomes active and then the inertia mechanism in the controller determines the amount of voltage applied. I really think the delay is the nature of the beast and I'm not aware of any way to eliminate it, but proper settings may reduce the sensation of the lag.

The maximum voltage applied to the actuator is set with the dial on the P2 controller. There are a number of factors that determine what is optimal and for me this is a seat of the pants feel of what's going on. Ideally the trailer brakes will work in harmony with the TV brakes such that they carry the mass of the trailer. In a panic stop, you want the maximum amount of power applied to the brakes that doesn't lock up the wheels. For my particular combo, 6.8 volts seems about right. If I understand the boost function, it determines the amount of initial voltage sent to the actuator. For me, b3 seems to be the correct choice, but when the brakes have warmed up and I'm in stop and go traffic, I find the brakes become grabby and work more smoothly if I drop down to b2, then once back on the highway, I bump it back up to b3. I'm not suggesting these settings will be the best for you, but you will find what works best with some experimentation.

Significant changes such as traveling with full water tanks vs empty may alter the sweet spot. In particular, changes in road surface must be considered. The amount of power applied to the brakes on dry pavement may be too much for wet and particularly for icy pavement. I wish Dexter had considered adding ABS to the actuator as this may have assisted with the slippery pavement issue.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:40 PM   #28
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P3 Controller with 2009 Classic 25FB - great combo, smooth and controlled breaking with zero delay via my wiring harness I had to create for use with my TDI Touareg.

Interesting side note, my 2011 30 Classic and now my 2013 27FB International - both with drums brakes, feel the same as my disc brakes on the 2009 25FB Classic.
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