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Old 04-18-2011, 09:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
To clarify, your final setting after all is good and done, is to have the trailer wheels just at the lock up point on dry hard surface with a hard TV apply. The manual lever should be able to easily lock up all wheels on dry hard pavement. Where on the controller scale that falls, I think will vary by controller manufacturer.
This is interesting. Since my TV is a F250 and (thankfully) easily controls the Stream, I would not have set it that high for fear of the trailer dragging the truck to a stop. Not to mention slight lockups on turns, etc. Maybe need to rethink my settings ideas......

Much to learn from all you pros on this site. (And I thought I was a semi-pro LOL).

Steve
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:20 PM   #16
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Ideally, the trailer brakes pretty much take care of the trailer weight and the truck brakes take care of the truck and bed load. That would be a balanced setup least likely to get you into a jack knife on wet surfaces particularly. Some folks even like the trailer set a little harder so there is always "tension" between the truck and trailer upon brake apply. I personally prefer a neutral balanced feel....maybe a slight amount of tension.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:49 PM   #17
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Try backing the spindle nut off a couple of flats. If the hub is getting hot, it may be that there is too much preload on that set of bearings.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:20 PM   #18
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I would pull the seal and clean/inspect the bearing . If it shows any sign of overheating I'd replace it.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:44 PM   #19
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Great thread. I've learned a lot.

Tnx Lyle
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63air View Post
I would pull the seal and clean/inspect the bearing . If it shows any sign of overheating I'd replace it.
He already did that. Says all OK.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:17 AM   #21
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If nothing else works, assume you've missed something. So, bearings are cheap—replace them and see if that makes a difference. At the least you'll have a spare pair (the ones you replaced).

The never adjust brakes have two star wheels—one for the leading and one for the trailing shoe I assume. This may be a dumb question, but did you adjust each one?

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Old 04-19-2011, 12:03 PM   #22
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Another angle and I hope I can explain this clearly, this is my understanding. The star wheel should be adjusted to drag brakes on the drum and then backed off 7-8 clicks to allow clearance and enough movement to actuate the mechanism.
But, you can back it off too much and cause the mechanical advantage of the pivoting cam to lock up the wheel. It's like, if the magnet moves the cam bar 1/2 to 3/4" when applied the cam moves the brake shoes X amount, but if the brakes are backed off too much it moves the cam bar more and creates more mechanical advantage to the shoes. Next time you have it apart move the magnet cam and wach the shoes move disproportionatly.

Example, a few years back I had a wheel that would lock up and squall the tire at the slightest touch of the brake controller, I kept backing it off (no improvement) until it was obvious to me that wasn't the solution. I pulled the wheel and the hardware was loose, the star wheel almost completely closed, I reassembled (off the side of the road in Wyoming) and adjusted as described above and it worked fine the rest of the trip.
Maybe this is something to look at,,
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:05 PM   #23
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I agree with ebair; I had a similar problem with one of the rear (drum) brakes on my TV. The brake was so far out of adjustment that the shoes would actually "cam over" and lock up the wheel. The only way to get the brake to release was to back up a foot or so.
This truck has automatic adjusters that work when you back up. Well the truck had not been backed up enough. The adjuster only works when you step on the brake while backing up. If you don't apply the brakes when backing up, they never get adjusted. The adjuster does not work when you hold the brake pedal down; you must pump the brake pedal while backing up.
I know that the trailer does not have auto adjust brakes; but my point is that they can get so far out of adjustment that when applied they will "cam over" or lock up.
Adjusting the star wheel until the wheel can not be turned and then backing it off a few clicks until you can just hear the shoe dragging periodically is the method I use and it always seems to work.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:39 PM   #24
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Have someone in the TV press on the brake to make sure the trailer brakes work properly. You should hear the magnets energize so you can tell if they are working.

I always use the brakes when backing since it costs less than backing into cars, trees, walls and over embankments. But I hadn't heard about pumping them, so thanks for that tip.

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Old 04-20-2011, 11:06 PM   #25
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Problem Solved:

Took the coach to Walker's Trailer and Welding in Savannah.
These guys were like the Orange Cty Choppers builders on TV without the swear words - VERY knowledgeable about electric brakes.

They found the Problem: One of the brake arms was slightly bent and was being caught on the backing plate causing the brake to hang up while drums were expanded. Also there was some contact from the brake magnet on the side of the drum as evidenced by some scraping on the side of the magnet and slight scoring on the sides of the drum.

They replaced the whole backing plate and checked and adjusted the rest of the brakes and I was off with not too bad a bill.... less than I thought for 2+ hours of work.

Also I got an education on the Never Adjust Brakes. First and foremost was I could NOT adjust them thru the hole in the backing plate as the piece of thin metal that is supposed to adjust them was in the way. This was confirmed when the experts could not adjust it that way either. They had to pull the drum off JUST to adjust the star wheel. Also the *star wheel is NOT a star type but shaped different - like a slant and hold type for the metal 'adjuster' to move forward.

Problem is I tried hard to make it adjust by backing up and hitting brakes 20 times with no apparent adjustment. The experts told me they just don't work like Never Adjust is supposed to do- (only if you have them exactly right when installed~!)

Hope that helps some....
Steve
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
To clarify, your final setting after all is good and done, is to have the trailer wheels just at the lock up point on dry hard surface with a hard TV apply.
I'm coming into this game a little late, but how about what Dexter says:



BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums.
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:22 PM   #27
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locking-up

You don't want your brakes to "lock-up" as you loose stopping force with a sliding wheel. They should be adjusted to just before locking up with a hard stop.

I adjust the controller so they lock-up at 10-15mph on a hard stop then back off the adjustment until they no longer lock -up.

I also adjust so I have some pre-tension when I first apply the TV brakes.

I don't know the professional way to adjust the controller but I pull 3 trailers and 2 boats and they all need different settings on the controller depending on trailer loading.

I use the above method and it works fine for me.

I also remove the anti sway bar when roads are wet or backing up.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry View Post
You don't want your brakes to "lock-up" as you loose stopping force with a sliding wheel. They should be adjusted to just before locking up with a hard stop.

I adjust the controller so they lock-up at 10-15mph on a hard stop then back off the adjustment until they no longer lock -up.

I also adjust so I have some pre-tension when I first apply the TV brakes.

I don't know the professional way to adjust the controller but I pull 3 trailers and 2 boats and they all need different settings on the controller depending on trailer loading.

I use the above method and it works fine for me.

I also remove the anti sway bar when roads are wet or backing up.
I have always understood this is correct....I don't understand Dexter saying a loaded trailer won't lock up the brakes. I have had two drum Dexter trailers in the past with two different controllers and now my disc Dexters with a Genesis (hayes), and all were/are capable of locking up the wheels on hard dry surfaces loaded for travel. As in the quote, I adjust to the point of lockup, then back down till I get the trailer pulling a little on the truck on a moderate stop.
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