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Old 08-18-2011, 10:40 AM   #15
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2011 27 FB International
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Dawsonville , Georgia
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Someone told me to be sure that the length of the break-away cable was shorter than the length of the chains. then, if the hitch fails, the trailer brakes would come on before the chains reached their full length. Makes sense but a bit tricky to get the correct length.

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Old 08-18-2011, 01:14 PM   #16
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1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta , Georgia
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The idea is for the cable to be a last resort. Your chains will catch the tongue of the trailer (they are crossed beneath it) if the hitch breaks. I have no doubt that if the trailer falls onto the chain, I will be very aware of it. If the chains then break, the cable is your last fail safe, and the trailers breaks will activate keeping it from rolling on down the road.

I drilled a hole to the left of the hitch through a part of the truck frame (not the hitch frame) and stuck a snap clip through it. Now it is a simple matter to hook and unhook the safety cable, and I don't have to lean over any more than to hook the chains when I am down there.

Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars

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Old 08-18-2011, 03:35 PM   #17
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1966 24' Tradewind
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Aviator Has Got it Right...

... as have most others in this thread.
1. Never attach it to the hitch itself.
2. I made a bracket that I attach to a license plate bolt. This bracket accepts a carabiner or chain mender that I run through the permanent loop on the breakaway cable.
2. Don't shorten the cable. Just make a lazy loop and secure the loop with an electrical tie. Make the loop bigger or smaller as you see fit.
3. Finally, try to align the cable so the break away switch will get a straight pull if the trailer does break away.
4. Test the break away switch at the beginning of each towing season.

Ken L
1966 Tradewind 24
2007Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax/Allison
Four Corners Unit WBCCI #8654
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