2004 Safari Passenger front axle (dual axle AS) wheel heating up.....Driving me crazy. Lots of details below....
Passenger front axle wheel set TPMS alarm at 190F. Magnet fried, shoes de-laminated.
Road side fix...Put new AP Products assembly on purchased at Camping World
Drove NC to FLA then Home to PA...TPMS temp on that wheel always ran say 10-15 degree hotter maybe 126F tops.
Several small trips in the hills of PA. Wheel stared heating to 150's noticing smell.
Whats been done:
I am leaving out some details as this has been a long process.... 4 New matched magnets 7k ( new assembly had 7k Magnet and originals were 6K). New brake shoes rear axle. 4 new bearing seals. 4 Bearings cleaned and repacked. Brakes adjusted several times (full out to lock then back off 8 clicks)....even adjusted the hot wheel out another 10 clicks
at TV plug
1.2 Ohms for both axles (measured at AS plug blue and white pole)
13.7 Amps measured at trailer blue wire from gang box
average 3.4 amps at each magnet
Average 11.4 Volts at each magnet
Tighten ground wires at ground junction in trailer
Hot Wheel testing:
With trailer plug disconnected, continuity to ground on both lines to magnet
With trailer plug connected, 11.4 volts to ground
With trailer plug connected, continuity from metal of magnet to ground but no volts
Nothing binding, springs return
No grease on shoes from bad seal
Just got done with test drive after magnet replacements. With minimal braking mostly highway...hot wheel rose to 132F while other 3 wheels ran around 104F. Easy braking off highway to home hot wheel went to 179 on TPMS.....
Hot wheel spun free at that high temp..no harsh dragging sound either (tested with tire off of the ground). No wobble or play on bearing at low or high temp.
Pulled the hot wheel while hot (ouchy)....with thermal couple drum temp near spindle was about 218 and at the outer diameter 224F
Thinking about replacing hub and drum (may switch it to other wheel and see if other wheel heats up first) Unless someone can say, yep do it this happened to me and it was the drum/bearing.
I think the electrical debugging eliminates a bad ground or bad brake controller. But my experience tells me bad grounds can be tricky. I am thinking it is electrical and that is why the other brake assembly failed.
Could be bad brake material on that new assembly.
Thinking about rebuilding old backing plate
I am at a loss...At the forums mercy...