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Old 04-30-2016, 12:40 AM   #29
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I wonder if the wheel alignment to the axle was checked? If the tire is not tracking true, there would be unusual tire wear and heat generation.

But a dragging brake seems like a high probability issue.
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:56 AM   #30
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Have you checked the linkage on the brake shoes. Take the drum off and move the magnet to expand the shoes.. If the shoes do not immediately return, or the linkage does not go back to home position you probably need to free up the main pivot point where the magnet arm turns to push the shoes out....speaking from experience. I just clipped the wires on my trip since I was only 50 miles from home. The issue disappeared and I was able to track the problem to the frozen linkage.

If it is dragging shoes the drum will heat first around the outer edge. If it is bearings the hub will get hot first. Reassemble the wheel leaving the hubcap off and start driving ...check every 5 minutes or less to see which part of the drum is getting hot first . That will lead you to the source.
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:16 AM   #31
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I don't know where you are in Pittsburgh, but if it were me as I don't know much about brakes, I'd either call or take the trailer to Carl and Alex at what was Airstream of Western PA and let them have a look see. Combined over 60 years of Airstreams I am just guessing here but they might have seen this before.

Good Luck

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Old 04-30-2016, 08:12 PM   #32
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Took half the belly pan off today. Connections at wire nuts looked fine. But the way its wired could explain why an individual wheel would have a problem. Going to run new wires.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:18 PM   #33
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:56 PM   #34
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Wow, so looking forward to the posting of the solution.


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Old 05-06-2016, 10:37 PM   #35
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Attached a few more photos. Have made slow progress this week, however, the pictures are of the wire off the wheel that was heating up. Hard to get a good picture but it shows corrosion about 20 inches back from the magnet connection.

I found 10 inches of oxidized wire and then stopped looking. It was only on the hot wire.

Corrosion effects resistance. So the question is does the corrosion effect the magnet and increase the brake force?

Should have it all done and buttoned up tomorrow. The 7 pole pig tale, break away, and all wires from bow to stern will be new. Will post an update after the road test.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:49 PM   #36
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I just want to say I hope this is the answer. This would drive me mad.

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Old 05-07-2016, 07:54 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaKarch View Post
Attached a few more photos. Have made slow progress this week, however, the pictures are of the wire off the wheel that was heating up. Hard to get a good picture but it shows corrosion about 20 inches back from the magnet connection.

I found 10 inches of oxidized wire and then stopped looking. It was only on the hot wire.

Corrosion effects resistance. So the question is does the corrosion effect the magnet and increase the brake force?

Should have it all done and buttoned up tomorrow. The 7 pole pig tale, break away, and all wires from bow to stern will be new. Will post an update after the road test.

I have found the same thing on our trailer - it seems no matter how far you strip the plastic back on the wire, it is still black from corrosion. All wheels were this way on our trailer.

I like to solder my connections and then use waterproof shrink tube on them (the kind with the hot melt glue inside). In order to be able to solder corroded wires I have to splay out the individual strands and try to scrape the corrosion off with a knife as best I can, then re-twists them.

My impression is that as long as you can make good connections, the surface corrosion on the rest of the wire doesn't have a huge effect.

Could be wrong - but the reason I feel this way is that I recently changes all four complete brake assemblies on our trailer - making connections as described, and when I measured the current draw at full braking, it was right up to spec - close to 15 amps. I think if corrosion were a problem, this would not be so.

Be interested to see what you find though.


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Old 05-07-2016, 11:46 AM   #38
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I would think corrosion would impact the current (not the voltage) such that brake application would be reduced or the magnetic current would be less in attraction to the rotating magnet surface of the brake drum. Reducing the force to the shoes. (Diminished braking versus other brakes with no corrosion) Just an opinion.

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Old 05-07-2016, 10:28 PM   #39
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Almost done....this job has been plagued by one dumb thing after another...

So if you think of I = V/R .... If R increases I should decrease and thus less magnetic force ~~~~ Less braking force

But if you think about it from the power equation or Joule’s Law: P = I^2*R ... as R increases more power goes into that circuit. So we know we should get say 12 V in the line which I was and new magnets should read about 3.5 Amps when cold which I was getting...

So P = (3.5)2^2 * 3.2 = 39.2 Watts of power at the magnet

Keep in mind that 3.2 ohms was read across the magnet....not the wire and magnet but it would be a series circuit which means it would be additive.

So if wire adds resistance say .5 ohms then,

P = (3.5)^2 * 3.7 = 45.3 Watts at the magnet

So current and volts can stay stable and the power can increase with resistance....and energy has to stay in equilibrium...

If I ever get it back together we will see if the road test supports my abuse of the laws of electricity...
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:58 AM   #40
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I would think corrosion would impact the current (not the voltage) such that brake application would be reduced or the magnetic current would be less in attraction to the rotating magnet surface of the brake drum. Reducing the force to the shoes. (Diminished braking versus other brakes with no corrosion) Just an opinion.

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In my case when I recently changed all of my brake assemblies, I found the same blackening of the wires on all wheels - and if memory serves me, both wires leading to each magnet exhibited the same thing.

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Old 05-08-2016, 08:13 AM   #41
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All theory aside, as long as the terminations make good contact with all the strands at each end, surface corrosion won't be much of a factor. But in practice, some current crosses from strand to strand along the length of the wire and if the contact with the termination only catches half the strands then there will be some extra resistance. This is the one reason why you need to clean each strand of dirty or corroded wire be fore tightening the screw or crimping the 'stakon'. If we were talking high voltage, surface corrosion might be more of a factor as I believe high voltage/ current travels on the surface of the wire.

You were having trouble with grabby brakes or one brake dragging. Poor voltage and low current would not seem to be the cause. All your work will pay off in vastly improved reliability and smooth operation. We'll need to wait and see if the problem was corrected. If one wheel was not braking due to poor wiring, maybe the other wheel simply picked up the slack using the available voltage/current to that side.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:26 PM   #42
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After: new bearings, complete wire overhaul, 2 new backing plates etc etc

Still the same thing

Last ditch effort tonight I remember changing old school drum brakes with my Dad and always wire brushing the contact surfaces. I also checked to see if the drum was magnetized (its not).

So I removed the paint from the contact surfaces (which could have caused a sticky condition) and polished the metal. Added some white grease reassembled and down the road....that wheel actually ran cooler the entire time until I got close to home and started using the brakes and up the temps went....

Parked it an i could smell the brakes on that wheel. Left the cap off and the heat didnt seem to be coming from the bearing but the outside drum was too hot to touch....so the brake is dragging.

I checked the alignment for the heck of it and the wheels are good. Haven't tried new brake material yet.... maybe that's it. Other 3 wheels have napa shoes and the hot wheel has dexter shoes.

If anyone out there is pulling their passenger front axle hub would you send me a picture or post a picture of the assembly? When I did the road repair last summer did I put the first assembly on one hole off?

I surrender. ok quitting is not part of my personality..that was a moment of weakness.

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