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Old 09-18-2015, 10:40 AM   #15
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From industrial maintenance experience, too much grease and no place to expand can heat bearings. The other suggestions made to isolate the problem are things we would do to trouble shoot similar probs in machinery.

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Old 09-18-2015, 11:04 AM   #16
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You say no play in bearing? I always set my bearing tight while turning wheel then back off , then tighten with my fingers, when run a couple miles you will have a couple thousands play , just right , did the big trucks and trailers this way and never any problems.

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Old 09-18-2015, 11:25 AM   #17
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I've never seen this happen, but could it be a bad tire? Maybe you had some random thing cause the brakes to drag the first time, this might have damaged the tire from the now the tire squirms and generates excess heat by itself....?

If you swap your backing plates to isolate the problem, try swapping the tire to a different position at the same time.
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Old 09-18-2015, 01:24 PM   #18
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Well its not electrical....disconnected wires to hot wheel. Tire went to 150 in 20 miles. Other tires at 110 with brakes working and I was in stop and go traffic for half of that drive.

So I am betting on the TPMS showing me a bearing about to fail. Changing bearings and drum simply because I can get the assembly for $80 locally.

Will know soon....

If too much grease the heat would have most likely pushed it past the seals....

If the tire was it the drum would not have measured 225F and the tire 180F
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:37 PM   #19
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Make sure that the bearings, inner and outer will slide freely on the spindle to their shoulder stops. Do this without them installed in the hub.

I had one doing this and found my outer bearing sticking on the spindle. Took it off, polished spindle with emery cloth, LIGHT coat of grease, reinstalled, set load-no more issues. I have found that not all wheels will run same temp, but should be fairly close.

I think it is a bearing issue. You could also run it w/o the backing plate on and that way get a accurate temp reading on inner and outer bearing, narrowing it even further. Extra work, I know, but beats losing a spindle and have to buy a new axle.

Hope you find it.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:23 PM   #20
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Welll...its not the old hub and bearings. Put new dexter stamped hub, packed with red grease new bearings and races, new seal.....

145F only difference is that the same trip last night had me running at 180F....but I set the gain real low as to not lock up that wheel.

Tomorrow I will swap the right side will either follow the new backing plate or somehow be the spindle...or some overlooked electrical issue....

Someone asked if there was volts when brakes not engaged.....1st I was using the controller to apply the brakes not the pedal and second volts with controler not applied are 0V
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:38 PM   #21
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A few more details from today's adventures in trailer brakes...

Put the hot wheel in the air tonight at the 145F and again wheel turned freely, no drag.

And the bearings both old and new slide off and on as they should.... not binding

As for play in bearing statement...No "excessive" play in bearings would have been a more definitive statement.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:42 PM   #22
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Heat is the first failure sign for a tire...

I would try switching that tire to another hub and see if the problem travels with the tire... if so then it on its way to a catastrophic failure... replace that tire and it should go away. Even a new tire can be bad if it has a manufacturing defect. Do you have a IR laser thermometer??? the kind you point at the tire and take a reading? If so try to localize the source of the heat by pulling over after a few miles and check rim and various parts of the tire (sidewall, edge, contact patch) and this may give you a better clue. We use one of these while auto-crossing to keep the vehicle tires in the optimal temp range for traction.
They are very accurate.

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Old 09-19-2015, 04:51 AM   #23
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If you have not already I would definitely try switching tire locations.

It could be alignment but you would be getting tire wear if it is. The Passenger front tire is the most common to be knocked out of alignment.

Eliminating all of the above, my guess is you have a bent spindle which is putting extra pressure on a bearing not enough to overheat it but enough the get the hub warm.

It will likely run for ever it you keep good grease in it, or you could change the axle.

If you do change the axle, put the new axle on the rear and move the rear one to the front. Your current axle rides better than the new ones do.

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Old 09-19-2015, 06:24 AM   #24
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Is the drum on that wheel different...or out of round? Is it possible that wheel is getting more voltage due to bad connections in the harness feeding the other wheels? I would have expected the pair of wheels on one side would be affected not just one if it is a high resistance problem. You could try checking resistance from the 7 way back to each magnet...might give some insight. Ground the connection at the plug to the trailer frame and check resistance between magnet supply and the backing plate at each wheel to get around the distance from plug to wheel with your meter.

Note that if one wheel has the brakes backed off more than the others, that brake will be grabby and do more work since the leverage on loosely adjusted brakes is greater than shoes that are set up tight. The linkage gets to move further which increases the leverage on the mechanism.

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Old 09-19-2015, 06:32 AM   #25
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Apologies in advance if this is as stupid as I think it might be - but is there any way that particular wheel is carrying significantly more load than the others?
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:57 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Apologies in advance if this is as stupid as I think it might be - but is there any way that particular wheel is carrying significantly more load than the others?
I was starting to wonder the same thing. Even if it is not related to the way the trailer is loaded, could the rubber suspension somehow have "frozen" on that end of the axle. maybe causing the bearing to see usually high loads?

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Old 09-19-2015, 06:51 PM   #27
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2004 28' Safari S/O
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New backing plate was causing the brake drag.

So I had grand plans of swapping backing plates more debug, more wrenching today. But I decided to go to local equipment trailer store (Tom's Equipment, can't say enough good things about this place) before they closed at noon to buy a new made in USA Dexter branded backing plate before they closed.

Noticeable difference is that front pad; although the correct length of material it is placed higher on the shoe. I think as the brakes lost material (which they lost a lot of) the shoes started to bind even more. So I put it on...and drove 70 Miles with no brake heat up. Keep in mind that 20 miles and I was smoking hot consistently.

Now hind sight is usually 20/20. The path that led me off was that it was a new backing plate sold by a reputable store (camping world). And I drove NC to Fla Keys and back to PA with no excessive heat. So it had to be something else! Should have followed KISS motto (Keep it Simple Stupid).

Then you are so far in... that when I put a thermal couple on the drum and the outer was slightly warmer than the inner I found a way to convince myself that it had to be a bearing or warped drum....

The good of all of this is I have so much data that it will be interesting if the manufacturer will give me grief about a refund for this complex boat anchor.

Anyhow, I certainly hope this helps people out there.....because without the TPMS system and some understanding of how to interpret its data with the mechanical and electrical system ......I would have drove down the road until something broke and not known why. The Dill TPMS is now a net positive in my book and it has saved me the purchase price in repairs.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:54 PM   #28
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2004 28' Safari S/O
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Thread going live again

Not solved... Same wheel heating up again after out of storage and first 2 trips.

Seriously considering new trailer side brake wiring.

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