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Old 09-11-2007, 11:27 PM   #57
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Wow - good service, but makes me wonder about using the used unit that I have. Hope this helps solve all your issues!
Marc
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:42 PM   #58
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again it's great they keep sending ya more parts...

but the system shouldn't need rebuilding 3 times.

i started wondering about the controller as an issue way back.

on the fords, prolonged pedal pressure at zero speed triggers a release of the trailer brakes....

i think this is to protect the circuit board.

yours seems to lock up with prolonged voltage via the brake pedal 2 controller...

so it will be interesting to see IF the brake controller they've selected for you to use solves the problem...

stay safe and take some pictures of the bits

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:19 PM   #59
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I have read about another actuator that releases the trailer brake at a standstill. When at a long stop, the ActiBrake goes into "extend'a hold" mode, which applies the brakes, as it would in a brake-away situation, and shuts the pump down in cycles, all the while maintaining brake pressure. So the pump runs for a certain time then shuts off.. and repeats. In a properly working system the extend'a hold quits when your foot leaves the brake, or if in a brake-away, until the trailer battery is disconnected or runs too low to keep going.

****

I asked Active, Letsgo's question. He said it was a VERY GOOD question and I should tell you so! So thank you again!

He said two things (other than the pump itself) could make the pump lock down the brakes: A short in the blue wire, which is responsible for communicating the brake signal to the brake controller, or corrosion in the brake-away switch. He said he just heard that the brand "Tap" switches were reportedly having problems with a trickle leak of voltage. (have a tekonsha) He told me to check that there's no voltage coming from the switch when inactive.

I will need to purchase a voltmeter- I gave it a shot with a crusty "multimeter" I found in the garage. It read nothing while inactive but moved slightly when the pin was pulled.

I don't see any other bad connections. I looked at the blue wire and did some additional grinding on the trailer frame to be sure there is enough bare metal for the grounds.

I am hoping the brake controller makes a difference.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:46 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
... When at a long stop, the ActiBrake goes into "extend'a hold" mode, which applies the brakes, as it would in a brake-away situation...
hope my post didn't confuse the issues for ya...

and not that it has anything to do with your situation, but my reference was to the ford brake controller and actibrake combo....

i watched an a/s tech call a ford tech and discuss how the new (in 05) controller would work with the disc set up.

the answer then was at zero speed the voltage supplied was zero using the manual lever...

so no brakes, unless pedal pressure is applied.

this has been discussed several times including the official notification posted here...

http://www.cvsa.org/resourcecenter/d...tin2005-01.pdf

there is also apparently some issue with how setting the 'gain' may/may NOT work in all situations...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1181629985

again NONE of this may relate to your frustrating situation...

it may very well be a mystery short or multiple parts failures...

but others have had issues getting this smoothed out too...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ler-30440.html

and other threads under actibrake or towcommand...

i'm very satisfied with the kodiac/actibrake/ford combo...

clearly setting up each model controller can be a challenge...

see ya camping soon!

2air'
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:00 AM   #61
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New Brake Kit

Hi, I just read on the new Airstream web site they have a brand new brake kit to convert your troublesome disc brake system to the new dependable drum brake system. just kidding.
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:07 AM   #62
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ok bob enough of that funny business....


it could be true too...

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:54 AM   #63
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When I put a new Hays genisis brake controler on my truck, Actibrake told me to take all the power off the actuator (Trailer battery leads too) to reset the computer part.
Just an Idea.
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:59 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, I just read on the new Airstream web site they have a brand new brake kit to convert your troublesome disc brake system to the new dependable drum brake system. just kidding.

Believe me we've thought about it!!!

( I do love the brakes.... when they're working right )
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:53 PM   #65
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Well, I have had a duh moment- the black and red probes on my multimeter were mixed up (I didn't even know they could be changed)- so with that ironed out I can say there is no leakage at the brake-away.

Is this weird or normal? With my TV off and the red on the "brake" connector pin and the black on the ground there is a reading of approx. 6 volts. None of the other pins show any voltage.
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Old 09-14-2007, 02:58 PM   #66
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I used the meter to check the brake controller. I had my son move the manual lever while I put the probes at the brake connection & ground entering/leaving the pump. It moves from 0 to about 12volts when the manual lever is used. That's good.

**

I was also reading another thread where you can check your charge line by disconnecting the trailer battery and plugging in to your TV- if nothing works the fuse is bad or.. maybe the charge line wire has a problem? I did that and nothing worked inside the trailer.
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Old 09-14-2007, 07:00 PM   #67
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A suggestion DON'T BUY a meter that automatically sellects the different voltage ranges (if the meter sees different voltages ac/dc and varying voltages at the same time the auto meter gets screwed up at the same time confusing you and me)
That voltage you are seeing (guessing) could the sensing circuit, that detects the male and female trailer plugs are attached, in turn turning on the in truck brake controller.
In order to do any trouble shooting the truck and trailer have to be attached at the trailer hitch (mechanically) and the brake plugs attached (electrical).
One test that you should do, is (as above) hook the trailer and truck up mechanically and electrically,
1 do a resistance test, one OHMS meter lead on the truck frame the other lead on the trailer frame, theoretically the reading should be 0.0 ohms but in practice you may see 0.1 or 0.2 or 0.3 ohms resistance no more. then do a dc voltage reading between the same points on the 2 chassis, this will help disprove a flotting ground, reading should be a definate 0.0volts
2 then disconnect the trailer from the truck leaving the electrical plug still hooked up, do the same resistance test (as above) should have the same reading as above. then do the same voltage test between the the 2 separated chassis this should be also 0.0volts proving that you have a good electrical ground wire.
one other thing you might do while doing the different tests start pulling and wiggling all the wiring.

good luck
drive safe
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:36 PM   #68
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I will be away this weekend but I am wondering if anyone can tell me how to be sure my TV is charging the trailer battery. And whether it is normal to read voltage from the brake pin ((& ground) of the trailer connector))when the TV is not on.

I am also having trouble finding the TV fuse dedicated to the 12v + part of the trailer connector (04' Silverado 2500HD). The manual isn't very clear.. to me, that is. (Is there terminology I should be aware of?)

**

I received the new pump and a Hayes Energize XPC controller. The new pump is way different--- I'll have to take a picture later.
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:45 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I will be away this weekend but I am wondering if anyone can tell me how to be sure my TV is charging the trailer battery. And whether it is normal to read voltage from the brake pin ((& ground) of the trailer connector))when the TV is not on.
Seems unusual to see voltage on the brake pin connector with the TV disconnected ( or connected, for that matter).
Check the TV umbilical connector on the correct prong to ground for battery voltage.
Then, check the trailer's umbilical cord on the correct prong to ground with the trailer battery fully charged. You should read 13...V on both counts. If there's voltage present, then chances are the system is charging ok. If you can't get voltage at the truck end, then start the truck and try again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I am also having trouble finding the TV fuse dedicated to the 12v + part of the trailer connector (04' Silverado 2500HD). The manual isn't very clear.. to me, that is. (Is there terminology I should be aware of?)
Read the manual. Sorry....

**

Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I received the new pump and a Hayes Energize XPC controller. The new pump is way different--- I'll have to take a picture later.
Yay!
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:59 PM   #70
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TV receptor (I hope I am being clear) read about 9 volts at the brake pin & ground. The trailer umbilical read nothing at the same corresponding points, while not connected to the TV.

I did check the charge wire while the trailer and TV were connected and the TV was running- I saw no voltage. That's what is making me wonder if it's a fuse or if the wiring is not right.
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