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Old 02-28-2007, 01:55 PM   #15
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I'm home!
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Old 02-28-2007, 07:23 PM   #16
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whew!

Here I thought you were still stranded. Is the orginal shop doing the repairs? What's their take on the situation.

P.S. - FYI - the "spider bite" is a bit of a urban legend. In reality, the majority of these "bites" are really staph (bacterial) infections that erupt. Yuk!

Marc
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:50 PM   #17
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EEEEEWWWW!! Thanks for the FWI !

I am giving the original repair person the opportunity to rectify the situation, for two reasons: 1) He's a really good guy; his attitude is positive and he seems to know what he's doing. 2) He knows what he did and I've already paid him those hours, so I figure he'll be able to rectify the situation better than someone coming in now.

However, if he doesn't have a good idea, or it is HE who messed the whole deal up--- well, then we'll cross that bridge, I suppose.

But I did find new, weird information:
The old trailer connector has a new plug, thus the wires don't match the original configuration as linked by uwe (and per the diagram I already had).
But they do match up with my tow vehicle except......: the center prong on the Airstream is the charge wire (which I verified by chasing the wire) and the center prong on my truck is the back-up lights. So that IS a problem in-and-of-itself.

I have a new umbilical cord, waiting to be put in... when the swelling dies down.... and hopefully more answers to the problem at hand.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:38 PM   #18
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New Plan of Attack:

Bleed brakes correctly, thoroughly charge brake-away battery, test. Install new umbilical, and power Actibrake from the TV.

I made this diagram showing the Actibrake install, as it will be. Any comments, questions, concerns?

Should anything be added?

The fuse block is from VTS--- description from the website:

"Each circuit has a capacity of 20 amps with a total capacity of 85 amps. It has three positive DC input terminals and a chassis mounted ground terminal bus."

*the brake-away shows no wire connection to the other side- that is because it is currently connected to a 12g red wire that runs alongside the umbilical that may be tied to the charge wire (it functioned when pulled). So that will stay the same or be tied into the black 12v + from the new umbilical.
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Old 03-02-2007, 10:11 AM   #19
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Fuse panel info....

Okay, so this is the info I tracked down on the fuse panel I have. It looks like the grounds from the battery and converter (and Actibrake in my case) need to be separate grounds drilled through the floor and into the frame. It also looks like I need to add an in-line 55a fuse to the battery line.

Correct?


http://www.parallaxpower.com/Dist_Panl/FB%20Series.pdf
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:15 PM   #20
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Well.... here's an update:

Trailer has new umbilical.
Actibrake has been wired to get power from TV.
Actibrake has it's ground to the frame.
Fuse panel and converter now grounded to the frame.

Brakes worked- when hooked up to a test battery, trailer jacked, wheels did not spin.

We picked it up from the RV shop, calibrated, no braking. Pump comes on as if in extenda-hold. When you let off the brake pedal the pump keeps going for the 2minutes. No brakes. No delayed resistance - nothing.

Brake controller: Draw-tite Activator II (has worked w/ these brakes), still shows read-out- appears normal.

We have ordered a Prodigy, and will try that.

Frustrated.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:15 PM   #21
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I would venture to say that your actuator has a hickup. Get it replaced, together with the brake controller. You should have a warranty on the item, right?
You have spent enough time and anguish at this point. These are wonderful brakes, and shold not give you this much grief, all things considered.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:03 AM   #22
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I'm with Uwe...

with all this work, I'm sure you MUST be wired right. Can you call the vendor to help out with the warrenty work on the AB?

FWIW... I've had nice service from AB (had to put new wires on the used one I got cheap....). I emailed them and got a reply fairly quickly.
Marc
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:21 PM   #23
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Doing some clean-up...

I'm going to post a picture of my control panel and the original schematic.

In regards to the Charge line: Schematic has 2- 40amp fuses shown, with one being a spare. The picture shows it is actually being utilized. Here is what I think the wires are doing...

There is a 6g blue wire in the umbilical area that runs to the 40 amp fuse and goes through the low voltage relay, then leaves as a 10g red that goes to the rear and charges the battery.

In the schematic CB#3 has a 12g red wire running to the old brake-away. I am guessing- due to the gray splotchy paint on that wire, which is visible in the coupler area and the control panel.

The guy disregarded my illustrations and is using that red as the charge line.
He said he thought the blue was brakes (that's why I gave him the color diagram), so it's no longer being used.

I want to use the red for the B/A. And put the blue charge wire to a CB (like it was) and connect it to the 12V black of the AB and trailer connector.

Sound reasonable?

**The blue wire has a fuse, it is removed in the pic.
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
with all this work, I'm sure you MUST be wired right. Can you call the vendor to help out with the warrenty work on the AB?

FWIW... I've had nice service from AB (had to put new wires on the used one I got cheap....). I emailed them and got a reply fairly quickly.
Marc
I have been in touch with AB and am going to do a few tests to help isolate the problem. But at this point, I am re-doing the connections that were done, and a few other things, that apparently the shop dog did... .

After we are done with that, we'll test, and....
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:10 PM   #25
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Okay, well, I decided to use the red wire, originally run to the B/A, for the B/A. And the charge (fat blue) wire is on a circuit breaker with the AB power and 12v+ from the TV.



When I called AB, Mike (great guy), told me to:

1.) pull the B/A and see if the pump shuts off when you put the pin back in.

- It does (yay)

2.) Use someone else's TV, plug in and see if pump shuts off after you take your foot off the pedal (instead of staying on- like it's doing for me).

- Neighbor is going to help us in an hour or so...

This will help establish whether it's an AB problem or our brake controller and/or wiring from TV to brake controller.

We may need to run a separate ground straight from the controller to the neg. terminal of the TV battery.

Ugg.
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:57 PM   #26
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Results are in:

AB goes into 'extenda-hold' mode when coupled with neighbors truck as well. When he tapped on the brake and when activating the manual lever of his controller, the AB when immediately to full on for 2 minutes.

So, I'll have to wait till Monday to know what to do next.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:07 PM   #27
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hmmmm...

sounds like it may be the AB. Shipping for me (NW) to Iowa and back was around 47.00 (insured). Total turn around with shipping was about 2 weeks.

Will the vendor do a swap, or do you have to send it in?

Mike is a great guy - he took good care of me!
Marc
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Old 03-18-2007, 10:05 AM   #28
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I am guessing, the best avenue, is going straight to AB. I'm coming up on the end of my warranty- April 26- so, time is of the essence!


I was having a really hard time getting around why if the pump is going on full bore, there is no braking. It would seem to lock up the brakes instead of nothing--- then my husband made the analogy to his paint sprayer. When it brakes down, the pump motor goes on, sounds like it's working, but doesn't pump the paint... so, Maybe the AB motor is going, but there is a glitch in the pressure behind the pump?!

Anyway, I hope they're as good to me as they were you, Marc. I'm hopeful. And.... I want to go camping!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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