Having quite a bit of brake pedal 'pulse' that seems to tell me that there is rotor wear and/or warping. Considering going the 'new rotor' route, but that is about $500 in parts ALONE! for all 4 corners. Then you add pads, and various fluids, I could be over $150 per corner....`
You mentioned possible rotor problems, is that on the trailer or TV? You could always have the rotors turned. IF it is the TV, the answer may be easier and cheaper than you think.
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2002 Toyota Tundra Why is it Levee's built by volunteers with sand bags hold better than Levee's built as directed by the Corps of Engineers with millions of taxpayer dollars?
Yes the likely rotor problem is with the TV. "Kelly" is an '01 2500HD 6.0L 4x4 with all the toys but no SR. Really love this truck - it IS short on power about 2% of the time, but AOK on 98%. Still has OEM pads at 79K!!! With about 50% of the lining still there, even on the fronts....!!!
Still, there is serious pulsing present when the brakes are applied - some squeek too (no, reverse for 20 feet - rock or whatever, doesn't fix it). Will get the rotors turned (still OEM) and that shouldn't present a problem. Plenty of metal there! Cheaper than new too. $144/ea. for the rears from Chevy dealer.
Any thoughts on new pads??? Ceramic's are available as are metalic, but I would rather replace pads every 20K than fool with rotors.... Thoughts?
Looking into getting TV and AS ready for the "big move" so there are plenty of little things to check...
Washed SilverToy yesterday - missed a few spots. I'll get her ready for the big 'debut' in a few days.... We live off a gravel road, so doing things toooo early results in 'same-ol-same-ol', so patience pays!
As usual, ASF's is terrific. Thanks for the thoughts!
Hi Axel, I wasn't sure if your trailer had the disc conversion or the rotors were problematic on the TV. Now that I know it's the TV, I can help but only just a bit. Some of the pre-2003 Tundra pickups had a tendancy to cook the front rotors. Most found the solution to be replacing the OEM rotors with cryo-treated and/or slotted rotors. I thought the cryo-treated was a bit much, but I did opt for replacing the original rotors with Brembo slotted rotors. Some people tryed the slotted and drilled rotors, but found the slotted worked best and there was no tendancy to crack like some of the cross-drilled rotors were prone to. If you can turn your rotors due to having enough material, I would think your choice to try that first is a good one. If you have to replace the rotors, I can highly recommend the Brembo slotted rotors. I picked mine up for about $160 for the front pair on Ebay.
Now where I can help, the very best pad I know of are the Performance Friction pads available at Autozone. If I remember correctly, they were about $28 per wheel for mine. I mention the Performance Friction because they hold up well to slotted and drilled rotors, they are easy to "seat in", and they are extremely durable. Most importantly, they don't promote rotor warping. I remember reading someplace why the have a reduced impact on the rotors, but I can't remember exactly what the reason was. I've had mine for about 40,000 miles and there is still over half remaining of the pads and the rotors are doing great, smooth and even with no pulse.
Toyota has since improved their rotors and pads and brake problems occur with much lower frequency.
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2002 Toyota Tundra Why is it Levee's built by volunteers with sand bags hold better than Levee's built as directed by the Corps of Engineers with millions of taxpayer dollars?
The Performance Friction pads are CarbonMetalic and have very little brake dust.
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2002 Toyota Tundra Why is it Levee's built by volunteers with sand bags hold better than Levee's built as directed by the Corps of Engineers with millions of taxpayer dollars?
not a hijack just adding to Mr. Thompson's signature. A freeway on ramp panhandler was observed with a suitcase of money and a cardboard sign " I only need 10 more dollars to get back to Mexico"
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The 2 worst things that can happen to an old aviator:
(1) One day you will walk out to your aircraft,
knowing that it will be your last flight.
(2) One day you will walk out to your aircraft,
not knowing it will be your last flight.
Any thoughts on new pads??? Ceramic's are available as are metalic, but I would rather replace pads every 20K than fool with rotors.... Thoughts?
Axel
SilverToy
I got ceramic's for my wife's car. Never again. They wear very fast and are extremely messy. She has an open wheel design on her car. Cleaning those wheels frequently won't be a chore soon. 50% of the lining is gone. Those pads were installed on 4/15/06 with 82224 miles. Car has 97700 on it today. Previous set of genaric pads lasted 39,000 miles.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - towing a - 1966 Overlander International Twin Bed
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Diamond Anniversary 4.6L (275hp), 4R70W - 1990 Ford E 150 5.7L, AOD, 3.73 ____________________________________
Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
I would go with severe duty semi metallic pads. This, believe it or not, is what we put on Rich Luhr's 30' Safari last fall. He has put many thousands of miles on the trailer since, with significantly less wear than the organic pads it originally had. Dust is minimal as well. These were automotive pads, and should be available for your truck as well.
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Terry Important safety tip: Battery acid + baking soda= volcano...
AIR#2611
I've found my intermittent pedal - steering wheel pulse caused by a caliper not sliding correctly to align with the rotor, road grime & grit or corrosion locks it in its tracks or causes it to skew and bind so only one pad ends up forcing against the rotor. Before you invest in new anything I would pull wheel(s) and exercise and lube the guide rails; I spotted this only after spending money and having it reoccur in a short time.
Silver---My son is a shop foreman at a chev dealer. Having seen this many times this is what he has found to be the only lasting cure for pulse. It seems machined or even new rotors do not run completly true when installed on Chev trucks. They will nearly always run out a few thousands. This begins the proccess of wear on the rotors untill the unevenness can be felt as a pulse. Installing new pads and rotors is only a temporary fix. A lasting fix requires mounting an indicator on the rotor and checking runout. Some times it can be eliminated by rotating the rotor on the bolt holes ,some times a tapered shim can be added between the rotor and hub but the best way is to machine the rotor ON the vehicle. If the rotor has much over .001 runout the pulse will return shortly---for what it's worth---pieman
the best way is to machine the rotor ON the vehicle. If the rotor has much over .001 runout the pulse will return shortly---for what it's worth---pieman
You can call your local brake shops, and ask if they have an on-the-car brake lathe. If they don't, keep calling around, someone in your town should.
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Terry Important safety tip: Battery acid + baking soda= volcano...
AIR#2611
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