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Old 10-28-2009, 06:24 PM   #21
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Just a quick FYI, if the steering wheel wobbles when you brake, it's in the front rotors. If you feel it in the seat or brake pedal, it's in the rear rotors or drums.
If the steering wheel wobbles around 20 mph without the brakes applied, or the back end wobbles, get your tires checked out.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:45 AM   #22
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If the controller couldn't lock the trailer brakes they may not have been up to snuff, which would add to the stress on the front brakes. I like to set mine so the trailer activates just ahead of the TV brakes. It isn't enough to make it uncomfortable to drive, just enough so I feel that the trailer is still there.

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Old 10-29-2009, 01:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
There are some things to consider when towing a large trailer downhill. I recommend the boost 2 position of the Prodigy. The quick onset of braking helps ensure that the trailer stays behind the TV. In my opinion, 60 MPH is way too fast for the steeper parts of mountain passes. I try to find a gear and speed that will allow me to only occasionally brake, for instance when approaching a sharp curve. I do not exceed the speed that will allow me to shift into the next lower gear without braking or over revving the engine. If I am passing trucks, I use that as a trigger to evaluate what I am doing. If traffic prevents me from passing the slower trucks without exceeding a prudent speed, I just relax and stay behind them. I may get to the bottom later, but my chances of getting there are greatly increased. I am posting this because, if the brake disks are warped, the likely cause is overheating from overuse.
Regards,
Ken
P.S. Over a period of sixteen years, two brake controllers, three trailers and three tow vehicles, I have never been able to get trailer brakes to lock up.
Concur! When you go downhill, gravity will make your trailer start to push your tow vehicle. Your brake controller has a lever which allows you to manually lock up your trailer brakes. If you're on the verge of jacknifing, locking your trailer brakes manually while accellerating slightly will turn your trailer into an anchor and straighten out the tow vehicle/trailer combo..... if you're lucky and fast and keep your cool!

Avoiding the need for that maneuver is better than doing it perfectly - so going downhill at a "sissy" 40-45mph greatly increases your chances of keeping the trailer behind the tow vehicle, the shiny side up and your heart in something other than an esophagus shaped lump just behind your tonsils.

be safe have fun see you down the road!
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:00 AM   #24
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I should have mentioned above in my comments about slotted rotors wearing Performance Friction pads that the PF pads come with a lifetime replacement warranty.
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