Visit our Popular Forums

Ray Eklund · 09-03-2018, 10:49 AM

My Ford instrument panel had 'Trailer Disconnected' appearing on the instrument cluster while traveling across Nevada/Wyoming.

My trailer... was connected. This continued.

Returning home I, of course, go to an Internet Search of Ford F Series 'Trailer Disconnected'... discussions. Some earlier models, but not the 2014's had software issues. Some software upgrade was needed on them. No Service Reports on the 2014's.

Much like this Forum, lots of different ideas. You work through them one at a time.

I posted on the AirForums. A number of great feedback. First- Test for Continuity of 12 volt power. While tracking 12 volts the Right Side... tested good for continuity. So it was not a lack of 12v power.

I used leveling blocks, one wheel at a time, spin and Nancy would engage the F350 brake peddle. Nothing.

Next using the Manual Brake on the dash board... nothing.

Both front and rear Right Side Brakes tested good for 12v. Not working. Purchased and replaced with Dexter Brake assemblies... both... now brake. The magnet surface on both original brakes were not flat ,nor smooth, is my best guess of the problem.

I replaced BOTH left and right sides with the self adjusting brake assemblies. Five bolts, two wires. Spin, brakes. Go to next wheel. Spin, brakes. Done. This is an addition to the earlier Right Side Brakes Not Working.

Now- Emergency Options while on the Road...

So... what if a brake shoe fails and locks up a wheel. Can it be removed and you can travel with THREE working brakes until parts can be purchased? Or a magnet malfunctions? Or a bracket gets jammed, somehow.

Anyone have a 'brakedown' and found a temporary cure to get to town? This was a first for me and when something like a brake, breaks down... does anyone have some First Aid advice?

I now carry from Lowe's an inexpensive tester Southwire Voltage Tester #411505. From 6v to 240v. Although with two 12v batteries, on trailer and my F350 Diesel, it indicates... 6v. Southwire had not encountered that before. A single 12v battery indicated, 12v. So... there may be a reason, but continuity was not one of them.

**GCinSC2** · 09-03-2018, 10:53 AM

Ray,

This just happened on another rig, GM IIRC and it was a loose sloppy 7 way connector. Try securing plug to connector, mini bungee cord kinda thingy.

Gary

Shermy1987 · 09-03-2018, 11:05 AM

Re brake shoe lockup

Yes. You can remove hub and pull the brakes if need be. The chances of this happening is very slim. It's usually caused by very old brake shoes falling apart or wheel bearings failing.

The problem is getting the hub separated on the side of the road. in my years of breakdown services, I've often had to go as far as to chain a bottle jack to the hub to pull it off the axle.

Ray Eklund · 09-03-2018, 11:08 AM

[QUOTE=GCinSC2;2151020]Ray,

This just happened on another rig, GM IIRC and it was a loose sloppy 7 way connector. Try securing plug to connector, mini bungee cord kinda thingy.
Gary[/QUOTE
*******
Good post. I posted some years ago about our 2006 Safari connecting plug pulled out on a tight angle turn. It dragged along the pavement until we fueled up. I found it immediately after my standard 'walk around'.

The plug was no longer 'round' with a flat 'drag spot', but fit fairly snug and secure with Duct Tape.

I used the wide grey 'Duct Tape' to secure it then and today on our 2014. If you are getting voltage at the brakes... at least that is making contact.

Somewhere on THIS Forum, these connectors on the Ford are rotated to where contact of the BRAKES, can loosen and voltage is lost. I Duct Tape this every time we connect. Never had a plug fall out, nor a 12v problem.

Yours is an example of why this Forum, no matter its faults, is an excellent source of information.

Thanks. Your post was our FIRST Brake Issue experienced and you picked up on it immediately!

**GCinSC2** · 09-03-2018, 11:09 AM

Ray,

Didn't you just put new brakes on you're rig?

If a brake hardware component failed how could that set a DISCONNECTED code?

Gary

Gary

Shermy1987 · 09-03-2018, 11:30 AM

I guess I better add. This only applies to electric brakes. It they're hydraulic then you either have to cap off the line or loose all your fluid and have no brakes.

Shermy1987 · 09-03-2018, 11:32 AM

Re Gary. From my reading. The failure was in the actuator. It the actuator fails then the TV picks up a break in continuity as it is no longer being energized.

kendrick.l.j · 09-03-2018, 11:44 AM

Yet another Dexter brake failure this month. Ummmmm. Not good.

Ray Eklund · 09-03-2018, 11:47 AM

[QUOTE=GCinSC2;2151034]Ray,

Didn't you just put new brakes on you're rig?

If a brake hardware component failed how could that set a DISCONNECTED code?

Gary
******
Yep.... All FOUR.

The Right Side brakes were dead. The Left Side worked, but to do it 'properly'... I ended up replacing all four and now "re-burnish" the brake shoes, from Dexter instructions, and let the self adjusting mechanism set the brakes to the drums.

Your question is what I have no answer. Someone may have an answer. Possible the magnet was not making enough contact onto the drum inside surface? I tried to add additional photos a couple days ago, and a Forum Prompt...said I had exceeded my data number.

I must add this for anyone who will attempt a repair on the road.

Tools Needed:
Lug Nut socket and bar 3/4" inch on good lug nuts
Chisel and small hammer to remove Drum Cap
Breaker Bar (with a cheater bar) and 1 7/16" socket to remove axle nut
Tool or thin screwdriver to remove small clip on end of axle

For Brake Assembly:
9/16" socket, five nuts, short extension to clear brakes with ratchet
Wire cutter to cut two wires from assembly to trailer's 12v wire
Wire stripper and connector to reattach wires later if replaced assemblies

Paper Towels. Rubber gloves to avoid most black dust from brake shoe and drum on your hands. Lots of soap afterwards. This is a filthy job, but simple once your remove the old assembly. I went bare hands as it is just my needing to feel what I am 'screwing up'.

Take Drum and wipe all of the encrusted packed power on outside inner rim. Just clean it with a dry paper towel. Each drum seems to wear differently from what I experienced.

Find Brake Adjusting Hole plugs... just so I feel better about you NOT getting dirt and water into drum. The Brake Shoe plate has a flair to draw forward air into the drum to blow out loose dust... so maybe this is why you will not find them on your trailer. Just a guess.

OK. As usual, too much information, but all is useful. Someday.

ROBERT CROSS · 09-03-2018, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kendrick.l.j

Yet another Dexter brake failure this month. Ummmmm. Not good.

On a 2014 AS...could it be it was just time for service replacement?
Brakes, tires & running gear important to check at least once a year.

Bob
🇺🇸

Ray Eklund · 09-03-2018, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shermy1987

Re Gary. From my reading. The failure was in the actuator. It the actuator fails then the TV picks up a break in continuity as it is no longer being energized.

******
The Brake Plate Assembly does not have a diagram of the Parts, so I have to imagine what they would be called or their function.

Thanks again.

I noticed one thing while braking down a steep grade. My front left wheel on my F350 began to 'shimmy' on braking and using Engine Braking. That could have been my first clue that something was not operating.

There is a first time for everything, so you learn as you go.

Shermy1987 · 09-03-2018, 01:11 PM

I imagine that the windings inside the actuators had failed. Checking for 12v only tells half the story. If you use a multi meter and check the resistance of each actuator. I imagine you'll find that the 2 that have failed and are open circuit. I.e. have no resistance. This will bring up a brake failure code as your vehicle's computer recognizes that half the resistance has gone.

**GCinSC2** · 09-03-2018, 01:20 PM

Ray,

New brakes.

Ford instrument panel indicates Trailer Disconnected. That doesn’t sound like it has scan tool grade knowledge if it’s a mechanical brake fail or your brake lights aren’t working or it’s the clearance lights.

But I bet that controller is looking for a certain brake circuit resistance to prove connection established and maintained.

Does the setup on the controller ask how many axles? Then it’s expecting a certain range of resistance from the magnets if it Goes out of range, light goes on.

I bet I have a pic of old school drum brakes diagram in a motors manual.

I’ll look for it.

How about checking resistance on trailer plug brake connection to trailer ground?

Gary

Ray Eklund · 09-03-2018, 01:35 PM

GCinSC2 & Shermy1987 should have started this thread some time ago. Trouble shooting comes from experience. Some of us have to start somewhere and at the bottom is a good time to begin!

My experience is with 1970 and older automobile brakes that are hydraulic.

I am Electronically Challenged. I could not find my Dwell Meter for adjusting POINTS in my Chevrolets... to give you an idea of my level of technology. So I bought this handy voltage tester for continuity. Solved my problem, but leave the rest up to real experts.

Most Airstream owners may be also Electronically Challenged. Your posts help very much.

I was the guy with the Tesla Coil lighting florescent bulbs in a bush for Halloween... very old technology, Ozone and Lightning.

Someone may bring up that my 16" Michelin Tires could have added too much momentum to the trailer in tow, creating this problem.

paiceman · 09-03-2018, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

******

The Brake Plate Assembly does not have a diagram of the Parts, so I have to imagine what they would be called or their function.

Thanks again.

I noticed one thing while braking down a steep grade. My front left wheel on my F350 began to 'shimmy' on braking and using Engine Braking. That could have been my first clue that something was not operating.

There is a first time for everything, so you learn as you go.

Actually possible front end shimmy is a known random condition on late model Super Duties. I have one so far no shimmy yet a friend has same truck it shimmies at times yet everything checks fine

paiceman · 09-03-2018, 01:53 PM

Dexter has made two changes to the self adjusting brakes in the past two years. I have new ones, old ones and a disintegrated old one. It’s my belief that the failures are with the self actuator actually rubbing on the return spring and in time the spring fails basically blowing the brake assembly apart. I have 8,800 miles on our Classic, new self adjusting brakes all around. Pulled one wheel with only 900 miles and I already see wear on the spring. When ours blew apart I pulled the connection and ran 100 miles with no trailer brakes or lights. At the campground pulled offending wheel gutted the offending brake parts and moved on with three brakes. I’m considering another change as even with two recent changes these self adjusting brakes are not what they were five years ago. That said many people have no issues, seems very random. My apologies I said actuator hit the spring it’s actually the magnet. When not engaged electronically by one stepping on the TV brake pedal the magnet is somewhat loose and we checked it does bounce around and hits the spring in the same place whenever it does.

**GCinSC2** · 09-03-2018, 02:28 PM

Now you're dating yourself Ray, Dwell meter.

Anybody used one lately? I used to have one now only a timing light. But pretty sure you can get darn close using an ohm meter to set points pretty darn good.

Not the 16" drum brake integrated controller Bermuda Triangle?

Oh Ray, I thought I had a bad weekend. I changed the alternator on my 2000 VW Beetle Diesel had a failing overrunning clutch. A massive PITA for an alternator that only has two bolts. Book says pull front clip off. Then being a glutton for punishment new shifter bushings on same car. German plastic panels would rather crack than anything else.

Don't forget any chance for a test with different TV?

Gary

james.mileur · 09-04-2018, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiceman

Dexter has made two changes to the self adjusting brakes in the past two years. I have new ones, old ones and a disintegrated old one. It’s my belief that the failures are with the self actuator actually rubbing on the return spring and in time the spring fails basically blowing the brake assembly apart. I have 8,800 miles on our Classic, new self adjusting brakes all around. Pulled one wheel with only 900 miles and I already see wear on the spring. When ours blew apart I pulled the connection and ran 100 miles with no trailer brakes or lights. At the campground pulled offending wheel gutted the offending brake parts and moved on with three brakes. I’m considering another change as even with two recent changes these self adjusting brakes are not what they were five years ago. That said many people have no issues, seems very random. My apologies I said actuator hit the spring it’s actually the magnet. When not engaged electronically by one stepping on the TV brake pedal the magnet is somewhat loose and we checked it does bounce around and hits the spring in the same place whenever it does.

Bud, just left Glacier Nat'l Sunday, tested brakes in parking spot with RAM brake override, resulted in random clicking noises from right wheel area at slow speeds. Tested forward and reverse. In Puget area camping spot close to the water, no sound (pun intended). Can it wait till I get home later this week to open the drums?

Kyet · 09-04-2018, 09:33 AM

I drive a Ford 250 and there does seem to be a common problem with how well the AS plug works with the Ford receptacle. It took 2 days (trips back and forth from the AS dealer to a Ford dealer that thankfully was across the street) before it was determined to be the plug on the trailer. We replaced it with a different brand and all worked well. That one of course cracked into a number of peices with the first hard frost but I found a better brand and replaced it. No "trailer disconnected" notice for almost a year now.

**GCinSC2** · 09-04-2018, 10:13 AM

Kyet,

We just had a pretty good thread about this and pretty sure it was Randy at best convertor highly recommended the Pollak brand plug as replacement. I found a metal jacket one and installed it but I do not have any live test reports yet. I liked the folded washers on the outer connections allowed splitting half strands on each side and good retention.

A good bit of the discussion also centered around TV plug cover hinged at top or cover hinged on bottom. The top hinge got credit for holding the plug in position better than bottom hinged covers.

Ray any good news?

Gary