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09-19-2016, 08:24 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Flirence
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 12
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Electric drum brakes
I have a 1974 Overlander. Today I started replacing my bearings and decided that my brake shoes need to be replaced. I have a few questions.
Using the part number in the manual the local parts store couldn't find a match for the shoes. So does anyone have a part number or source for the brake shoes.
The electric brakes are working as far as I know but should I go ahead and replace the magnet unit too?
Would I be better off in the long run to just buy the whole unit?
I'm also looking for a good retail source for all of this.
Thanks
Wes
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09-19-2016, 08:49 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange
, California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,850
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Loaded backing plates, shoes, magnets and springs, are available at RV supply stores and online, such as etrailer. Much cheaper than replacing individual parts.
Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtjaynes
I have a 1974 Overlander. Today I started replacing my bearings and decided that my brake shoes need to be replaced. I have a few questions.
Using the part number in the manual the local parts store couldn't find a match for the shoes. So does anyone have a part number or source for the brake shoes.
The electric brakes are working as far as I know but should I go ahead and replace the magnet unit too?
Would I be better off in the long run to just buy the whole unit?
I'm also looking for a good retail source for all of this.
Thanks
Wes
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__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental, 2014 Dodge Durango
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
https://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
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09-20-2016, 02:52 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Flirence
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the info. I found the backplate unit for less than $50 at a local trailer supply store.
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09-20-2016, 03:52 PM
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#4
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,510
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That is a great find and local as well.
>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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09-20-2016, 03:57 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Southwestern Ontario
, Ontario Canada
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 307
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Are the "loaded units" all good quality or is there any superior complete packages?
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09-20-2016, 04:10 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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No question - better to replace the entire unit, less expensive, easier, and a better job!
What's not to like!
I did that while camping in Florida last winter - took me maybe an hour per wheel. I did take an electric impact wrench along and glad I did as the bolts (5 I think in my case) were somewhat rusted - they all came apart in the end without breaking any breaking though.
I soldered the wires to the new magnets but had to clean corrosion from the wires on the trailer to do a decent job.
The brake assemblies seem to be pretty standard - I bought mine from a local place that builds utility trailers, horse trailers etc., for less than $50 each for 12" assemblies - just need to ensure that the mounting bolt pattern matches yours as I think there may be 4 bolt and 5 bolt assemblies. They also had inexpensive drums but mine seemed ok for now.
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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09-21-2016, 04:23 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Flirence
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 12
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Brian, mine were previously connected with wire nuts. Also now my wires are a little short. I'll have to add a short splice. Can I use butt connectors or does it need to be soldered?
Thanks
Wes
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09-21-2016, 05:23 AM
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#8
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1987 Avion 34W owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Good Ol'
, USA
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,090
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If you don't mind me chiming in..... I have heard differing stories about soldering, butt splices, and wire nuts. I think any of those methods would be fine as long as you start with clean connections, join them with any of those methods, spray them with an anti-corrosive , and cover the connection with heat shrink tubing.
Make sure that you have enough wire at each connection to account for full travel of the suspension without putting stress/binds on the wires.
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