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Old 05-09-2013, 06:39 AM   #15
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1993 21' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by litlgeezer View Post
I am wondering now, if I am going to be forced to abandon the existing Dexter actuator and hydraulic accessories and revert to electric brakes. I have exhausted all local brake shops, and apparently even Andy is having problems locating pads for the AUSCO brake calipers that are presently on the trailer. I wanted to stay with the system I now have, but it's camping time and I can't wait much longer. I guess I will be looking at $400 for electric assemblies with new hubs for my two new Dexter axles. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
You can get Kodiak disc brakes to replace the obsolete system you now have. The actuator is the single most expensive part of the system, and you already have it.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:39 AM   #16
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Andy, What's the latest word on the brake pads ?
Received an update for delivery to us on May 13 or 14.

Of course orders can be placed ahead of that time, if someone wishes.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:41 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
You can get Kodiak disc brakes to replace the obsolete system you now have. The actuator is the single most expensive part of the system, and you already have it.
Thanks Overlander.

I've tried to do some reading about the Kodiak conversion. No brake places around this town seems to have any information to offer about Kodiak. My fear was that I would order a bunch of stuff that wouldn't fit. This brake thing is beginning to wear on me
So, Andy has found a supplier for the AUSCO disc pads and, if his prices are reasonable, I'll go this route. However, my concern is future problems with these antiquated brakes and getting parts and someone to service them.
For future reference, would you have any idea what Kodiak calipers part numbers would fit onto my 1979 Ambassador? I have new Dexter axles purchased from Andy a couple of years ago.
Thanks, John
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:44 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by litlgeezer View Post
Thanks Overlander.

I've tried to do some reading about the Kodiak conversion. No brake places around this town seems to have any information to offer about Kodiak. My fear was that I would order a bunch of stuff that wouldn't fit. This brake thing is beginning to wear on me
So, Andy has found a supplier for the AUSCO disc pads and, if his prices are reasonable, I'll go this route. However, my concern is future problems with these antiquated brakes and getting parts and someone to service them.
For future reference, would you have any idea what Kodiak calipers part numbers would fit onto my 1979 Ambassador? I have new Dexter axles purchased from Andy a couple of years ago.
Thanks, John
I can call my Kodiak distributor when I get to the office, and get the part numbers. You could even get them direct from them, they are Portsmouth Trailer Supply, in Chesapeke, Virginia. If you call, tell them you need the 12" conversion kits for two axles. The only additional thing you would need are brake hoses. IIRC, I use 10 or 12 inch hoses.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by litlgeezer View Post
Thanks Overlander.

I've tried to do some reading about the Kodiak conversion. No brake places around this town seems to have any information to offer about Kodiak. My fear was that I would order a bunch of stuff that wouldn't fit. This brake thing is beginning to wear on me
So, Andy has found a supplier for the AUSCO disc pads and, if his prices are reasonable, I'll go this route. However, my concern is future problems with these antiquated brakes and getting parts and someone to service them.
For future reference, would you have any idea what Kodiak calipers part numbers would fit onto my 1979 Ambassador? I have new Dexter axles purchased from Andy a couple of years ago.
Thanks, John
John.

We have provided the Kodiak disc's for sometime, and with no issues.

They will fit your new axles just fine.

Complete kits are available.

Most parts are still available for the original Airstream disc brakes.

You can, if you wish, change out the actuator at this point and then see what happens down the road for the rest of the system.

Some owners have chosen to replace the actuator first, and then the calipers at a later date, or when needed.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:46 PM   #20
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Here is your part number:
2/HRCM-12-E
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:52 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
John.

We have provided the Kodiak disc's for sometime, and with no issues.

They will fit your new axles just fine.

Complete kits are available.

Most parts are still available for the original Airstream disc brakes.

You can, if you wish, change out the actuator at this point and then see what happens down the road for the rest of the system.

Some owners have chosen to replace the actuator first, and then the calipers at a later date, or when needed.

Andy
Andy,

The Dexter actuator appears to be working fine even though I may have had some problem with the brake controller / actuator coordination. However, I'll work through this issue once I get the replacement brake parts in place. Call me when you have all the parts in stock - O-rings with piston boots and discs for 4 wheels. John
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:01 PM   #22
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Today I had an opportunity to begin the installation of the new pads for my AUSCO brake calipers. I cannot get the second pad to fit into its space next to the rotor. I made sure the piston was squeezed all the way flat and was not protruding out, but it still would not take both pads. I tried a second wheel with the same result. Even if I was able to force fit the pads, they would be so tight, I would still have the same problem that originally started this thread - dragging brakes.
I measured the spacers to be 1 3/4". Only way I can think that THIS problem can be resolved (with the new pads) is to increase the spacer size. Can spacers be purchased greater that 1 3/4", or can I 'fabricate' with some kind of material, something that would add another eighth or quarter of an inch to allow the two pads room to retract? I just want to be sure that I don't comprise the reliability of my brake assemblies.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:19 PM   #23
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I'm not able to help, don't know this setup. Suggestion, take a couple of pics and add to post.

Good luck.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #24
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I'm not able to help, don't know this setup. Suggestion, take a couple of pics and add to post.

Good luck.
Thanks GCinSC2. Today, after considering the problem, I am going to try to cut some 1/4" thick replicas out of some scrap flat plexiglass and see if that will hold up. If that does not do the trick, then I'll look for a flat piece of 1/4" aluminum and do the same. Unfortunately, I am still kind of ignorant when it comes to attaching pics to this forum.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:14 PM   #25
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3 ideas.

Call me Gary.

Brake parts can get hot, plastic might not be a super wise idea.

Got a 13yr old anywhere to help with pics.

Contact and review with pad supplier the issue.

OK, that was 4, sorry.

Gary
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:40 PM   #26
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I fabricated some shims from 1/8" AL flat bar. Have put two on and looking good so far. Now, for the other two wheels, I am cleaning up the pistons and putting in new seals. When I got to the step where I insert the piston into the new boot, boy I can't get that sucker to go in! I'm going step by step using the AS manual. The only 'wooden tool' I found was an old golf tee and I still can't get the boot started up onto the piston. Can anyone offer some help? i want to get this tin can off the jacks this weekend.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:07 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
You can get Kodiak disc brakes to replace the obsolete system you now have. The actuator is the single most expensive part of the system, and you already have it.
Don't want to leave this thread hanging - wheels are back on the ground as of yesterday evening. Three months of searching for parts and re-furbishing the old brakes was not a job I want to tackle again. Any more problem with them and I'll take Overlander63's advice and replace all the calipers. Thanks to all who gave me their support.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #28
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I am now in the process of replacing my calipers and rotors. I have been suffering since we got the trailer in 2006 with these brakes. They are so loose and chatter as we go down the road, embarassing. All of that rattling back and forth have banged the metal of everything that moves. The caliper pins have beem smashed down so much that they has tons of slop in them. I thought perhaps I could build them up by welding. It seemed to work, they are more solid. I also welded the broken pin welds also - half were broken and loose. But all of that work did not look good enough to me. That plus I was bending the ears off my pads from normal stopping, enough bending and the pad slips out, leaving the piston to grind against the rotor. I have 2 trashed rotors. The ears on those pads are just not strong enough - period. Also, one of my pads, a fairly new one, was loose - the brake material literally wiggles on the plate. The trust factor on them is near zero.

For installing the pads, I use a C-clamp to force the piston in almost all the way. I insert the inside pad first with only the bottom pin installed. Then I put the outside one in next. One thing I have done is to loosen the 4 bolts that run through the spacers enough to give me some play - leaving the bottom pin still in place and clipped. This makes it easier to install the pads. When they are in, I simply tighten the 4 bolts up and insert that top pin and clip - done.

When I am done I believe I will have some spare brake parts laying around... Oh, and about those boots, I had 4 wheels to do, so I ordered 8 boots and broke 4 of them putting them back on. Because of all of the brake pads I have lost, I have only one still intact boot, the rest have been torn.
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