Hi all! Getting ever closer to getting new axles and disk brakes (saving, saving, saving $$$).
For those with disk brakes, can you show me how you (or the dealer or Airstream) routed the brake lines?
My simple diagram below is two ways I've thought about it ("O"=wheel "T" = T junction).....
O O O____T____O
Actuator_____T ___T OR this way Actuator_____________T
O O O____T____O
The problem with the first way is that there needs to be either a four way junction (which I haven't seen) or two T-junctions at the first junction to make it work right... seems in-elegant. Second method is the way I'm leaning.
I'd love to see actual pics of how the brake lines are run. Anybody up for this? I'd like to see any brackets that hold the junctions on.... especially in the wheel wells where the solid lines join with the flex lines to the disks themselves. Also, do the lines go through the axle mounting plates to the frame wall facing the wheels, or do they go around or under the plates to the frame wall.
Thanks!
Marc
It should not make a difference. Hydraulic pressure will be exerted equaly as long as you use normal size brake lines. A common problem with Electrical brakes is the fact that minumal size wires are often used resulting in a voltage drop across the line. Airstream runs the brake wireing down the drivers side and then crosses over at each axle to the passanger side brakes. The 6 ft. additional wire results in less brakeing on the passanger side, as noted by the life of the passanger side brake shoes. You should not see this problem with hydraulics.
For those with disk brakes, can you show me how you (or the dealer or Airstream) routed the brake lines? I'd love to see actual pics of how the brake lines are run.
hi marc
i'll dig through my photos and post a few of the factory install routing this weekend.
the factory lines run along the belly to the wheel wells and then along the OUTER side of the frame rails to each hub.
a tire blowout, belt separation could damage the lines with this locaton...at least it's a potential, theoretical issue.
also suggest you call/email david tidmore at rogerwilliamsairstream in weatherford texas.
their shop has done several of the upgrades as in 10s. david has them on his bambi and they did rich luhrs upgrade.
as i recall his shop is routing the lines along the INNER side of the frame rails and looping around at each hub....
david or the shop guys can give you great advice on their preferred setup...
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
I was looking at the install pic (really, only 2 good ones in the article) in ASLife. Trying to figure out the best ways. I'll ask David T. if he might sell me the tubing... but I bet they bend it themselves at time of install. Too bad Tx is so far away!
I'd really appreciate the pics. I'm going to go with the Kodiaks after all.... I LOVE the Dexter's, but for less then price of two calipers from Dexter, I can get all four from Kodiak. I'm sure they'll stop me fine.. I'll just check the pads with each bearing pack.
Thanks again!
Marc
In a hydraulic brake installation routing is not that important, look at the routing in your car. What is very important is when bending the tubing to insure there are no kinks or reductions in the diameter of the tubing. Again a bending tool is required. Another consideration is brake tubing end are terminated in a "Double Flare" and require a special tool if the tubing is cut in the field. Because of the need for this tool most auto supply store stock brake tubing in precut lengths with the nut already on the tubing. As for the longer length needed to get from the front of the trailer to the azles you can couple several lengths of stock tubing.
My actuator lives in a space next to the refrigerator, inside a cabinet. I can access it by removing a lower cabinet shelf, or by a lower cabinet door.
The cavity is right ahead of the curbside front wheel.
I drilled throught he floor, and ran one line towards the center of the trailer, to a T-junction.
From there, 2 short lines run to yet 2 more T-junctions L+R inside of the wheelwell, just outside the axle mounting bracket.
Then, 2 short lines to the brackets that came with Dexter's torsion axle brake line kit, which has 2 rubber lines, and al associated brackets and t's in it.
The bracket that transfers the steel torubber must be securely bolted to the frame. From there the rubber line connects to the caliper.
For mounting brackets, I chose small steel clamps that have an inner ring made of rubber. These clamps are available in auto parts stores, as are the brakelines in varying lengths. If you do not want to get a flaring tool, then you can get closely matched brake lines, and then make a loop where there is too much length. ( within reason, of course.)
Recap:
metal line from actuator to center of trailer between axles
metal lines from there to L/R between the wheels
metal line from there to mounting brackets for rubber lines
rubber lines to calipers
Uwe - does your "T" between the wheels live on the outside of the frame rails, or the inside?
This (go to the center - T between the wheels) is what I was thinking of my first choice.
Regarding where the actuator lives. I have a spot in my front under the dinette that I was thinking of putting it, vs putting it in under one of my twin beds in the back. The front would have shorter electric runs from the TV to the Actibrake (with longer runs for the trailer battery as my breakaway power source) OR the rear would have shorter breakaway to AB runs, but longer TV to AB runs.
AB says to put the actuator where the TV to AB runs are shorter (less voltage drop between the TV and the AB) - does it really matter?
Uwe - does your "T" between the wheels live on the outside of the frame rails, or the inside?
This (go to the center - T between the wheels) is what I was thinking of my first choice.
Regarding where the actuator lives. I have a spot in my front under the dinette that I was thinking of putting it, vs putting it in under one of my twin beds in the back. The front would have shorter electric runs from the TV to the Actibrake (with longer runs for the trailer battery as my breakaway power source) OR the rear would have shorter breakaway to AB runs, but longer TV to AB runs.
AB says to put the actuator where the TV to AB runs are shorter (less voltage drop between the TV and the AB) - does it really matter?
My T's are outseide the frame, if I remember correctly. I ran soem conduit over the brake line that connects the two axles, in case of a blowout and tire shred.
Electrics:
It does not matter where you put the actuator, so long that the wire gauge is sufficient. I ran automotive battery cable for all the supply lines, I believe it is 2ga (?) or 0ga. Pretty heavy stuff. So, I can tap into it anywhere, and never have a measureable voltage drop. My chare line from eh TV to the trailer umbilical is 10ga. My umbilical connector is a 7-pin round, which is rated for much more current than the 7-pin flat. (35A vs 20A continuous.) I bleieve that the connection of the 7-pin round is more secure than the 7-pin flat, having had both.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
