Can you go into a bit more detail on the electrical side of the installation.
You say you used #2 wire to supply the actuator. What current does the actuator draw? If you are running it off the trailer batteries how well do the batteries hold up on a long day?
I replaced every exterior light on my trailer with LEDs just to increase the run time on the trailer batteries. This seams counter productive if the acturator draws high current unless you were to install a second alternator to supply the trailer.
Can you go into a bit more detail on the electrical side of the installation.
You say you used #2 wire to supply the actuator. What current does the actuator draw? If you are running it off the trailer batteries how well do the batteries hold up on a long day?
I did not run #2 wire to the actuator. I ran #10 wire to the actuator from the coach batteries, fused by a 30A inline fuse. The coach batteries also act as the breakaway battery.
I ran a #2 or #4 ( or whatever big battery cable is, don't exactly remember) from the umbilical cord all the way to the batteries. This line also connects to the tongue jack, converter/charger and to the 12V fuse box.
My Suburban has a 160A ( iirc) alternator as part of the factory tow package. My charging system and truck battery are well suited to supply the trailer with enough charging current to operate safely, and well within specs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
I replaced every exterior light on my trailer with LEDs just to increase the run time on the trailer batteries. This seams counter productive if the acturator draws high current unless you were to install a second alternator to supply the trailer.
Your exterior lights are ran by the lighting circuit of the truck, not the coach batteries. With the exception of the porch and scare lights. The exterior lights would have little to do with battery conservation, no?
My Suburban's alternator actually does a fine job of charging the coach batteries while towing, despite the relatively high current draw of the actuator.
My design ensures enough current capability to supply the actuator with power from the tow vehicle, while still allowing the batteries to be charged while towing. It is not necessary to make huge changes to a rig to run hydraulic disc brakes, but since I built everything from scratch, there was no need to compromise anywhere.
I think I've got it. Really doens't look too hard. My local Dexter dealer is able to set me up with the tubing, etc. I've also found some sets at Easternmarine.com. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=156 Maybe not the exact set up, but they have others available too.
Actuators - seems like Dexter and Actibrake wire theirs a bit differently. The Dexter looks like it can all be powered off the trailer battery. The AB is wired off the trailer battery for the breakaway function, and off the TV supply line for operation of the brakes. Probably could be wired off the trailer only, but I'll go with their wiring diagram for now.
Actuators - seems like Dexter and Actibrake wire theirs a bit differently. The Dexter looks like it can all be powered off the trailer battery. The AB is wired off the trailer battery for the breakaway function, and off the TV supply line for operation of the brakes. Probably could be wired off the trailer only, but I'll go with their wiring diagram for now.
Thanks again all!
Marc
Marc,
The charge line and the trailer battery are indeed the same potential.
It is a more or less continuous connection between the alternator/truck battery, charge line, coach battery. Usually no switches or relays in this circuit.
The breawaway switch gets powered on the hot side by the same circuit, the coach battery/charge line etc...
The switched side of the breakaway switch then goes to the dedicated breakaway connector of the actuator. It is extremely simple, all things considered.
Page 6 of the attached manual shows the electrical requirements of the Dexter unit. It says 25-40A is acceptable.
Uwe, I noticed in one of the photos of your setup that the brake hose seems to be routed too tightly for comfort. eventually it could cause a problem with the hose collapsing or rupturing. Is there any way to move that mount toward the center of the trailer a couple of inches to relieve the stress of the tight curve?
Uwe, I noticed in one of the photos of your setup that the brake hose seems to be routed too tightly for comfort. eventually it could cause a problem with the hose collapsing or rupturing. Is there any way to move that mount toward the center of the trailer a couple of inches to relieve the stress of the tight curve?
I think that's Tanya's ( sequoiacoast) TradeWind, not my Overlander. I am reasonable sure that my lines have a very mild radius. But, i will take look next chance I get, and make sure all the lines are still intheir respectivelocations....never know. It's been many thousands of miles since I installed them.
It may be the angle of the picture, I just went out there and I can move the rubber hose down at least 3 inches... but I'm not an expert (obviously). So, I'll ask someone- probably at the next rally (due to lack of experts up here) to check it out for me.
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