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DEITZ645 · 07-21-2009, 04:40 PM

As some of you know I had a brake line fail (spring a leak) on our trip down to Morris Meadows last year (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...end-45278.html). Well a year and two months later the excitement was on the way home from the same campground. On the trip back home the road side front outside disk brake pad on the trailer disintegrated. The trailer braked just fine on the way home and I did not notice it until I was leveling the trailer and chalking the wheels in the driveway. I noticed that the road side front brake rotor looked “funny,” it was all scored up, not shinny like the other three. So I jacked the trailer up and pulled the wheel to find the outside brake pad had disintegrated and the baking plate for the brake pad had been rubbing on the rotor. So basically the brake pads, rotor and the brake calipers are ruined!!! I called Airstream to see if there was anything they could do even though the trailer is out of warranty. They recommended that I try Dexter. So I am going to call Dexter tomorrow to try and get them to cover it under warranty. But if they don’t it will cost me all but $900.00 in parts to fix it. Luckily I can fix it myself and will not have to pay the exorbitant labor rate at an RV dealer.

Here are some pictures of the mess. The inside brake pad shows normal wear and still has 5/16" of pad material.
You can see the scoring on the rotor from the brake pad backing plate rubbing on the rotor.
The rubber boots on the caliper are shot.
What was left of the brake pad found in one of the caliper cups.

ROBERT CROSS · 07-21-2009, 06:28 PM

Read your previous post last year, here we go again. Glad no serious consequences

The last time I cruised the Colonial website I noticed some of the 09's & 10 are back to drums. Wonder if there is something they ain't tell'n us. When AS first started using disc's I thought of the upgrade, maybe holding off for awhile was the right thing, wait and see.

Good luck and "STREAM SAFE"...sic.

thecatsandi · 07-21-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Read your previous post last year, here we go again. Glad no serious consequences

The last time I cruised the Colonial website I noticed some of the 09's & 10 are back to drums. Wonder if there is something they ain't tell'n us. When AS first started using disc's I thought of the upgrade, maybe holding off for awhile was the right thing, wait and see.

Good luck and "STREAM SAFE"...sic.

Also glad no serious damage.

They may be back to drums since actibrake is no longer.

DEITZ645 · 07-21-2009, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

Also glad no serious damage.

They may be back to drums since actibrake is no longer.

I read a post to a thread here that they were switching to the hydraulic brake pump actuator from Dexter.

I guess one of these two...

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - K71-650-00 E/H1000 (Drum Brakes)

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - K71-651-00 E/H1600 (Disc Brakes)

ROBERTSUNRUS · 07-21-2009, 11:18 PM

Hi, without everything right in front of me to see with my own eyes, I would say that you have a caliper slide problem; Symtems, One pad shot other side/pad, OK. Where ever the pads and or calipers slide they need to be lubed with Brake lube or Anti-seize. You can reseal the caliper [new boots] and replace the pads and rotor. I would pull all of the brakes and lube all points of movement with Anti-seize. More than likely not covered by warranty, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

WK57ABF · 07-22-2009, 03:43 AM

ROBERTSUNRUS - Our 07 Classic has fixed calipers. Not sure whether the 06 had
floating calipers.

John in the UK

DEITZ645 · 07-22-2009, 05:02 AM

Our '06 has fixed calipers. I will see if I can rebuild the calipers. Thanks for the information.

woppa 4 · 07-22-2009, 07:24 AM

Bob is correct in his diagnosis: I had the same pad problem with an LTD Ford,which had set on the docks in Brm GER for a month, while waiting shipment. The inner pad slide slot had rusted from salt water exposure. After pick-up in SC ,and the drive to Tn; the inside pad/caliper/rotor were destroyed.woppa4

DEITZ645 · 07-22-2009, 11:56 AM

I just got off the phone with Connie at Dexter Axles. They were very nice and cooperative. Since they only offer a 2-year warranty the agreed to sell me the parts that I need at 1/2 of retail. I also found out that they have a caliper rebuild kit so I wouldn’t have to purchase an entire caliper assembly (the most expensive part of the lot).

So the prices came to;

Caliper rebuild kit - $15.60
New rotor - $77.59
8 brake pads to do both axles $179.34

Total - $272.53 - Which is quite a bit shy of my original estimate of $889.11 so I am happy.

Once I get the parts I will post notes and picture of the rebuild and assembly.

Hopefully this will be the last of my brake issues on this trailer

.

woppa 4 · 07-22-2009, 12:52 PM

? is the rotor so damaged that an auto/brake shop couldn't turn or resurface the rotor. woppa4

Excella CM · 07-22-2009, 03:28 PM

Bob's got it right! It appears that you have a floating caliper that automatically centers itself on the rotor. A fixed caliper has pistons on BOTH sides of the rotor, a floating caliper has pistons only one ONE side. When you burn through one pad prematurely, that means that the caliper hangs up and makes one pad do all the work. For your kit, you need only replace the outer dust boots and save yourself some work. Check your other calipers for an incipient problem too.

DEITZ645 · 07-22-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woppa 4

? is the rotor so damaged that an auto/brake shop couldn't turn or resurface the rotor. woppa4

Wopa 4,
It's pretty messed up. I will take it to a shop to see if it can be turned, but I would just as soon have a new one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excella CM

Bob's got it right! It appears that you have a floating caliper that automatically centers itself on the rotor. A fixed caliper has pistons on BOTH sides of the rotor, a floating caliper has pistons only one ONE side. When you burn through one pad prematurely, that means that the caliper hangs up and makes one pad do all the work. For your kit, you need only replace the outer dust boots and save yourself some work. Check your other calipers for an incipient problem too.

Excella CM,
From your description I definitely have fixed caliper brakes, because there are a total of four pistons; two on each side of the rotor.

DEITZ645 · 07-22-2009, 05:01 PM

Since I am going to be able to rebuild my calipers I was chomping at the bit to get the pistons out of the bores and clean everything. So when I got home from work I fired up the air compressor and tried to blow the pistons out into a towel. Well it worked great for one of the two pistons on each side of the caliper which left one remaining in each side...how to get that second one out???? After pondering on it for the better half of an hour it finally struck me...The bores looked about the same size as the rubber plugs I use to plug up the return jets in our pool when I winterize it. I dug one out and sure enough it fit like a glove. I tightened the wing nut which causes the plug to expand and it sealed perfect. I applied some air pressure and POP the remaining pistons was expelled from their bores. Now all I have to do is wait for the replacement parts to arrive some time early next week.

Here are some pictures of the solution to the problem...

Excella CM · 07-22-2009, 07:16 PM

You still need to identify the cause of the lopsided braking effort. This could either be a problem with pressure distribution (unlikely) or the pad hanging-up. Or something else.

Excella CM · 07-22-2009, 08:16 PM

You might also check for a loose wheel bearing on that wheel.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 07-22-2009, 10:55 PM

Hi, now that we have a little more information about your brake system, I can give you some more advice. OK so you have fixed, four piston, calipers. Your pads still need to slide in, with the pressure of the pistons, and relax when the pressure is off. You still need to lube the area where the pads move and make sure they don't fit too tight in the calipers so as to be stuck. There is a very slight possibilty that this one caliper still had air in it. This could make un-even pressure. Hard to move or corroded pistons could cause this too. As for the rotor. Maybe it can still be turned within minimum specs, but being thinner will make it heat up quicker.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 07-22-2009, 11:03 PM

Hi, from your pictures, the pads are held in place and need to move freely on the center pin and on the straight ends of the pads where they fit into the calipers. These three places need to be lubed and be able to move without binding.

WK57ABF · 07-23-2009, 03:56 AM

DEITZ645

Something that might help.

We initially had a lot of problems with overheating brakes. When I checked each wheel, after they'd cooled down, the outer disc pads were free (would rattle on locating pin) but the inner pads were tight on the disc. I thought it was the brake actuator not releasing brake fluid pressure, but the problem was the inner pistons. I tried levering the pad off the disc to push the pistons back in the bores, but they wouldn't move.

So, either the pistons were bottoming out in the bores or the disc was too far inboard. Eventually the inner pads lost some thickness and stopped binding.

Even today the inner pistons will only push back 1/16" while the outer will push back 1/4" or more.

Had I not kept a constant check on wheel temperature, I feel we also would have lost the inner pads.

In my opinion, the rotors are not central in the caliper. I can't alter that -
Dexter can.

Best of luck.

John in the UK

DEITZ645 · 07-23-2009, 04:44 AM

Everybody,
Thank you so much for you help and advice. I will take them all into consideration when rebuilding and assembing the brakes again.

I do have one question; What kind of lubricant do you use on the pad backing plates and calipers to keep them moving freely within the caliper?

I also have an observation; When I pulled the wheel and the locator pin the inboard pad came out very easily, but the destroyed outboard pad was a bugger to get out. When I put it all back together I will make sure that all eight pads are lubed and move freely within their "sockets".

ROBERT CROSS · 07-23-2009, 08:54 AM

Have used Hi-temp Antisieze in the past with pretty good results, but any lube will attract dirt which only causes problems. Keeping them clean and inspecting frequently is probably just as good an option. You can open up the clearences a LITTLE with a file or die grinder if you can put up with a little rattle. (Somtimes needed if the pad backing plates are painted or powdercoated.)