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Old 11-06-2011, 02:44 PM   #15
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I bleed my disc brakes when I repack the bearings and replace the seals....usually every couple of years...
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:17 PM   #16
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Is bleeding brakes part of regular maintainance I liked the electric brakes but now I have disc brakes and I have a delay and partial lock after applying and releasing them . Fluid does become contaminated and asorbs moisture . I am talking about automobiles but this should be the same . Can they be bled with a vacuum pump or do they need pressure applies ?
Don
Either way, I believe, is fine. See Bart's post above for a manual extended trigger switch to make it easier to turn the pump on and off while at the Caliper.
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:46 PM   #17
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Here's an interesting link....

bleeder
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:53 PM   #18
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Another one.....

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:29 AM   #19
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I noticed my trailer has a lag when applying the brakes and a lag when releasing the brakes too. I hear a motor running at the master cylinder on the trailer when I apply the brakes . I just don't think the brakes can ever be as instantionus as the electric drum brakes as electricity travels faster than brake fluid . I think the trouble is in the master cylinder on the trailer.It just takes too long after pushing the tow vehicle brake pedal to activate the motor on the master cylinder on the trailer to activate the disc brakes on the trailer and after releasing the pedal in the tow vehicle, to release the motor in the trailer master cylinder to release the brakes . It may only be a second or two but I perfer my brakes a bit more positive . The older electric brakes worked fine even if they thought this was an improvment . Maybe they need to work the bugs out .
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:53 AM   #20
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@Don...what actuator do you have?
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:36 AM   #21
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The master cylinder on the trailer is an Actibrake .
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:21 AM   #22
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Just started our trip to Fl and what a\ nightmare I am having with the delay in the brake system Hydraulic brakes should be surge brakes This disc system is so dangerous
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:30 AM   #23
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When did you last bleed your lines of air? Air doesn't compress very well and that may be some of the problem...
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:10 AM   #24
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Just started our trip to Fl and what a\ nightmare I am having with the delay in the brake system Hydraulic brakes should be surge brakes This disc system is so dangerous
Bleeding out trapped air (as mentioned by Dwight) is critical to proper operation. A good connection at the 7-way connector is equally important as is the proper brake controller. Also check the ground wire. Faulty grounds can cause lots of problems.

For the ActiBrake to work you need an "electronic" brake controller. The brake controllers typically have several settings for different types of brakes and the amount of power you want delivered to the brakes. If your controller is set for electric brakes it will not control the hydraulic brakes properly.

I suggest a professional if you cannot figure out how to make them work properly. A good professional may be difficult to find. Several RV dealers/service shops told me they don't work on hydraulic brakes. I found the smaller shops were actually better informed as they see a wide variety of rigs and they were willing to take time to talk through the issues. Regardless, you want your brakes to work.

Lucius
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:21 AM   #25
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I'll echo the others - bleed the brakes. Repeatedly. Any extra compliance ('springiness') in the system between the actuator and the discs will cause delays.

There will be a irreducible minimum delay; it is perceptible but doesn't appear to cause any problems.

- Bart
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:03 AM   #26
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Don.44,

I'll echo the above comments and offer my latest thoughts.

How do you know when its fully bled or something else? Well, I think when its fully bled you'll be able to tell with resposive, comfortable reliability but a few other things contribute also.

I can't claim expert at this but I have put a lot into my brakes for various and often unrelated issues and about 2 weeks ago I just installed (I did it) two new rear calipers to cure (nope, not really cured yet, more to follow later) my last hot brake issue.

1. All components must be functioning correctly. My Actibrake was leaking I didn't know it. I chose to R&R with Carlisle I have a pic up of my Actibrake internals showing fluid carnage. If yours was part or the recall, I'd keep an eye on the drilled inspection port for evidence of weeping.

2. Sticking caliper pistons. The Dexter caliper is a cast iron body. The caliper pistons on my rig are steel. All components BEHIND the pressure seal are bathed in DOT 3 brake fluid, internal corrosion possible from DOT 3 absorbing moisture , might want to inspect your reservoir cap for integrity. This is also my new incentive for perodic bleeding to flush out old and replenish with new fluid. The piston that sticks out and makes contact with the pad goes thru a dust boot. This section of piston behind the dust boot but above primary seal is also in contact with about a 3/16" band of the raw cast iron caliper body and IMHO is subject to corrosion. This corrosion might hinder the brake application but I think the real corrosion issue is that it will not freely allow the piston to retract as it naturally does during brake release and it can hold brake in an applied position and causes a ton of heat, burned pads, rotor and a reduction in braking effiecency/effectiveness. Also if your rotors have runout from previous extreme heat, they might be warped a bit and the runout could cause the pistons to be pushed back in farther than normal, also requires more time to push pads out to make rotor contact = delay.

3. I would look thru the wheels and get a quick visual of the pad condition and you might even be able to see sections of the dust boot. If the dust boot is torn, brittle or gone, time for caliper rebuilding possibly.

4. Back to bleeding, how do you know when it is bled. I'm thinking about investigating this further, but I took a tech call at work last week and the shop owner was describing a brake pressure gage that taps into the bleed screw port, he stated it has several ways to read and interpret the readings, I need to reseach further. But the PSI should be common throughout the system if all hoses are functioning AOK. I'll report back after I find out if the reading might show a ramp up that would indicate the pressence of air in the lines.

In the future I will not be washing my wheels and flushing off the brakes in the process and then parking the rig w/o taking it out for a drive to fully dry off the rotors, pads and calipers befor parking.

I have stated before, low mileage rookie, but with more wrenching years that lots of veteran AS'ers, My rig 30' S/O (heavier AS) with MaxBrake, Carlisle and correctly functioning calipers is very comfortable. I'm not feeling a significant delay, the brakes are coordinated to my TV and I know they are capable of hard braking, I left a short strip on my last brake test drive.

I also now feel that I have a decent ideal of what I as an owner need to be thinking about to keep my disc brakes ready and able.

Don.44 I hope you can find your gremlin(s).

Gary
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:21 AM   #27
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"I know they are capable of hard braking, I left a short strip on my last brake test drive."

Gary,
I, Unfortunately, can attest to this. Right after I got my new 16" tires and wheels, I somehow, sometime, unknowingly must have adjusted my Heyes controller to 90% apply max. At a 55MPH road a stop light turned yellow. Rig stopped on a DIME!!!! Unfortunately, when the weight all shifted forward, my rear AS brakes locked up. Flat spotted the new tires! Not too bad though, they'll heal back in with some miles.

I think the disc brake system works great. AS just had some poor vendor choices relative to actuator and perhaps rubber brake hoses. This "tarnished" the image of the disc system and they changed back. (probably reduced cost was a factor too)

I, for one, like the disc setup, and am glad I have them.
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:42 AM   #28
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I, for one, like the disc setup, and am glad I have them.
Hear hear.

The Tin Pickle's discs are of course aftermarket; when we replaced the axles we splurged on discs as well; Inland RV sells the Kodiak kits & actuators.

Result: this is by far the best stopping trailer I've ever pulled. Really. I've had a few hard stops due to people not estimating our speed correctly (the longer the vehicle, the more slowly it appears to travel); the truck and trailer just stop. Hard if you want. Remember to pack the trailer as if it was going to descend a nearly 45 degree slope, because that's where the force vectors point on hard braking. The nice Michelins we have on the Tin Pickle (and truck) don't hurt either.

I may eventually go to a Max Brake style controller so I can avoid the eccentricities of the controller trying to guess how hard I'm pushing on the brake pedal, but that's merely an annoyance in hilly stop and go traffic.

- Bart
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