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Old 12-01-2014, 03:39 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=dznf0g;1548337] I have found the only way to "easily" bleed the inner half is to loosen the supply line so it leaks very slowly....somewhere between a weep and a leak and watch until no bubbles come out. Then proceed to the normal bleeding method for the outer half. I'm still not sure you get all the air that way.
QUOTE]

Are there two lines to each caliper or just one? If one, I would loosen the line, watch for any bubbles and if there are any wait for good fluid flow then tighten up while under pressure. Then go to the bleed valve and bleed that valve.

I've bled car brakes before, a long time ago.

Trailer is in storage and its darn cold now. I'll have to wait for spring.

Almost tempted to sell my AS and go new SOB the issues I've had to contend with.

Kelvin
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:40 PM   #30
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Is it difficult to bleed the brakes on an Airstream with disc hydraulic brakes. Maybe I need to do this as I have some delay.
Kelvin
I used a vacuum pump to bleed my brakes when I replaced the pump. That way, I was able to do it myself. You can get vacuum bleed pumps at most auto stores.

You need to remove the wheels to more easily get to the bleed valves for the front axle. I just laid down and slipped under the trailer to reach the rear bleeders. Use the top bleeder. The Kodiak calipers have a 2-piece bleed valve and only the inner portion of the valve needs to be loosened to bleed them. Obviously, the top valve is where you bleed the calipers.

It is recommended to bleed each caliper twice, but I have good brake response after bleeding each caliper only once. I pulled about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fluid out of each caliper and threw it away. In that way, I pretty much replaced the original fluid. Make sure the pump never goes dry while bleeding!
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:42 PM   #31
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Part of the discussion I had with the Tuson engineer surrounded the delay and my belief that the only way to cure it is to have a high pressure accumulator incorporated in the actuator, like the automotive world. He stated that it has to do with the designed components in the motor and pump and whether they spend the bucks to have a virtually instantaneous 0 -100% pressure rise, when called upon to do so. He claims Tuson actuators have an "instantaneous" pressure rise from 0 - 100%, when used in conjunction with the Direclink and with the OBDII communication of what you are commanding with the pedal. Of course that assumes no air in the system!!!! Dead horse, anyone?

I can't confirm until I swap out my Actibrake, which I won't until it fails. BTW, I have <1/2 second delay after properly bleeding.....but I still wonder if I have a bit of air in the caliper.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:46 PM   #32
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re. bleeding above. Neither method will work here. You have the supply line which goes into the top of the inboard caliper half. You have a connector line between the two halves at the BOTTOM!!!!!!!!! of the calipers. And finally a bleeder at the top of the outboard half. Air trapped at the top of the inner half will not vacuum nor pressure out....unless you turn the caliper upside down. (Part of the somewhat dangerous method I said I wouldn't recommend publicly.)
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:46 PM   #33
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I used a vacuum pump to bleed my brakes when I replaced the pump. That way, I was able to do it myself. You can get vacuum bleed pumps at most auto stores.

You need to remove the wheels to more easily get to the bleed valves for the front axle. I just laid down and slipped under the trailer to reach the rear bleeders. Use the top bleeder. The Kodiak calipers have a 2-piece bleed valve and only the inner portion of the valve needs to be loosened to bleed them. Obviously, the top valve is where you bleed the calipers.

It is recommended to bleed each caliper twice, but I have good brake response after bleeding each caliper only once. I pulled about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fluid out of each caliper and threw it away. In that way, I pretty much replaced the original fluid. Make sure the pump never goes dry while bleeding!
John,
I sure hope I can do all the things you do, after I've aged another 11 years.

(Although, I married a younger woman, just in case)

Ken
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:52 PM   #34
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John,
I sure hope I can do all the things you do, after I've aged another 11 years.
Ken
I think that once a person quits doing something, they never start up again. It is a slippery slope. I'm getting slower, but I still do nearly everything I used to do.

... and my child bride is 10 years younger.
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:09 PM   #35
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I used a vacuum pump to bleed my brakes when I replaced the pump. That way, I was able to do it myself. You can get vacuum bleed pumps at most auto stores.

You need to remove the wheels to more easily get to the bleed valves for the front axle. I just laid down and slipped under the trailer to reach the rear bleeders. Use the top bleeder. The Kodiak calipers have a 2-piece bleed valve and only the inner portion of the valve needs to be loosened to bleed them. Obviously, the top valve is where you bleed the calipers.

It is recommended to bleed each caliper twice, but I have good brake response after bleeding each caliper only once. I pulled about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fluid out of each caliper and threw it away. In that way, I pretty much replaced the original fluid. Make sure the pump never goes dry while bleeding!
My friend has the Kodiak calipers, and they are simple, single piston, single reservoir calipers with one bleed valve.

Wish I had them.
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:09 PM   #36
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I think that once a person quits doing something, they never start up again. It is a slippery slope. I'm getting slower, but I still do nearly everything I used to do.

... and my child bride is 10 years younger.
That sounds like good sound device. So far the only things I've quit doing are things I didn't like doing in the first place. I'm the big picture guy in our relationship. Susan's has the patience for the detail work.

In other words: I mow the lawn, and she takes care of the flower beds.

Ken
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:44 PM   #37
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Disc brake discussion

I have a lot of experience with trailers equipped with electric brakes, disk/elec/hyd brakes, and drum/elec/hyd brakes. (I own several trailers of all three types that are used daily as I type)

The disk are superior, with the drums following up closely, followed by the electrics.

IMHO, the electrics are more than good enough for a trailer no heavier than an Airstreams.

All three varieties will work well enough to stop the wheels of the trailer on demand.


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Old 12-01-2014, 04:51 PM   #38
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Fwiw, time and experience has demonstrated to me that the Dexter actuators are the most reliable and economical over time.


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Old 12-01-2014, 05:09 PM   #39
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I have the Carlisle 1600 and the Kodiak stainless calipers. They are a single pin design. When kept clean and properly lubed they provide perfect performance! They bleed very easily.

As I have mentioned elsewhere on these forums, I experience nearly instant braking, I consider this zero delay or lag.
I use the P3 controller, ceramic pads, dot4 fluid..... Serviced every spring which is about 50000 miles for me.
I have identical systems on both my Classic 34' and my PanAm 34'.
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:53 PM   #40
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The test of trailer brakes is how well they can stop the combined rig with no use of tow vehicle service brakes.
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:05 PM   #41
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The test of trailer brakes is how well they can stop the combined rig with no use of tow vehicle service brakes.
True, and I would add, how smoothly each of four (or two, or 6 depending on axle #) apply braking force in a linear progression all the way to lock up equally, and consistently over time.

IMO, and experience, that is difficult with four different friction surfaces for the magnets where that surface has, to a high degree of probability, different wear patterns. Add to that, constantly battling voltage differences between each wheel due to wire chafing, flexing and fatiguing, and corroding.

Been there done that. They work fine, but they are maintenance pigs to perform at 100% and equally over and extended time.

I'm not trying to be difficult, even with the stuff we complain about with the E/H (because for the money they should be as maintenance free and as dependable as car brakes) they are a lot less trouble than electric drum brakes. We accept a lot more maintenance/repair issues with drums because they are what they are and require care and feeding. Discs shouldn't.

If electric drums are so good, why aren't they on cars?
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:12 PM   #42
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Slomover, then e/h trailer brakes are the way to stop!
I knock my head against the windscreen daily!
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