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06-12-2015, 10:51 AM
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#181
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Temp gun? Shoot the rotors. Even temps?
No temp gun, do the rotors have a similar shine?
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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06-12-2015, 12:03 PM
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#182
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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Disc brake discussion
In braking, the trailer will load the front axle more heavily. If the trailer is towed even slightly nose down, this is exaggerated. Same for worn axles, low tire pressure, etc.
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06-12-2015, 08:05 PM
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#183
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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Disc color looks even. Trailer is riding level. Just wondering what dust others have noticed on their rims.
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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06-12-2015, 11:36 PM
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#184
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie
I'm out west right now in Zion. I'm noticing brake dust on the forward wheel rims and not on the two rear rims. Not a lot but is it normal for only the front rims to get the dust?
Is it like a car where the front axle brakes do more work?
Kelvin
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Hi, did your trailer come with disc brakes or were they added on later? Different pads make different dust. Example: My wife's BMW had what I call "Black Wheel Syndrome" so I bought different brake pads and oh what a difference. I can clean the wheels bi-monthly instead of weekly. Maybe your front pads are different than your rear pads.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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10-05-2015, 10:06 AM
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#185
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Hot wheel and PM Inspection suggestion
Folks,
Brakes have been great up to the last trip. I noticed a wheel getting hot via the Dill TPMS. Pulled over and confirmed via IR Temp gun, pretty hot rotor. But not near as bad as I had the first time before I did my caliper work.
I found a large parking lot and shut 'er down. Raised the AS and pulled the wheel. I carry a few tools but most importantly a brake line union and a brake line plug.
The idea was to disconnect the line and plug it allowing us to continue. About an hour or so later we were on our way. I also plugged the caliper connection to prevent junk from getting into it.
These are part numbers (by my research, please confirm if you purchase a set) for the 3/8" X 24 3/16" tube inverted flare line union:
AGS BLU-3, Dorman 490330, Weatherhead 302x3
The plug numbers are:
AGS BLF-60, Dorman 320393, Weatherhead 131x3
All things considered, not too bad as far as an inconvenience might be, but what's the takeaway?
When I got home I dissected the caliper halves, removing the dust boots, pistons and seals. The dust boots on the hotter side showed some heat damage and cracks but I found no evidence of internal rust or any damage that could account for the brake drag. New caliper seals and boots ordered from Dexter.
So what's left?
My theory, disc brake pad to caliper contact points were corroded a bit, enough to keep the pads from floating. The AS only goes out about 5 times a year so it sits and is subject to stagnant corrosion.
My next move:
Fix the caliper, install it, and bleed / flush the fluid at all four wheels. And rotate the tires but here's the hopefull preventitive fix.
Pull the pads off of each caliper set and remove any rust/crud build up on the caliper pad anchor points and pads then apply a nice film of disc brake caliper grease. To remove the Dexter pads, remove the retainer on the pad pin, pull the pin and just wiggle the pads out of the caliper halves, the calipers do not need to be removed for this cleaning and greasing. Remember, just a light film you don't want to apply enough to contaminate the friction surfaces.
I'll add this to my PM list when rotating tires or any time the wheel is off.
The Dill internal TPMS helped me spot a problem, saved a brake, tire possibly and made a potential big problem a manageable inconvenience.
YMMV
Gary
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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10-05-2015, 10:29 AM
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#186
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4 Rivet Member
2006 30' Classic
Yonkers
, New York
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2
Folks,
Brakes have been great up to the last trip. I noticed a wheel getting hot via the Dill TPMS. Pulled over and confirmed via IR Temp gun, pretty hot rotor. But not near as bad as I had the first time before I did my caliper work.
I found a large parking lot and shut 'er down. Raised the AS and pulled the wheel. I carry a few tools but most importantly a brake line union and a brake line plug.
The idea was to disconnect the line and plug it allowing us to continue. About an hour or so later we were on our way. I also plugged the caliper connection to prevent junk from getting into it.
These are part numbers (by my research, please confirm if you purchase a set) for the 3/8" X 24 3/16" tube inverted flare line union:
AGS BLU-3, Dorman 490330, Weatherhead 302x3
The plug numbers are:
AGS BLF-60, Dorman 320393, Weatherhead 131x3
All things considered, not too bad as far as an inconvenience might be, but what's the takeaway?
When I got home I dissected the caliper halves, removing the dust boots, pistons and seals. The dust boots on the hotter side showed some heat damage and cracks but I found no evidence of internal rust or any damage that could account for the brake drag. New caliper seals and boots ordered from Dexter.
So what's left?
My theory, disc brake pad to caliper contact points were corroded a bit, enough to keep the pads from floating. The AS only goes out about 5 times a year so it sits and is subject to stagnant corrosion.
My next move:
Fix the caliper, install it, and bleed / flush the fluid at all four wheels. And rotate the tires but here's the hopefull preventitive fix.
Pull the pads off of each caliper set and remove any rust/crud build up on the caliper pad anchor points and pads then apply a nice film of disc brake caliper grease. To remove the Dexter pads, remove the retainer on the pad pin, pull the pin and just wiggle the pads out of the caliper halves, the calipers do not need to be removed for this cleaning and greasing. Remember, just a light film you don't want to apply enough to contaminate the friction surfaces.
I'll add this to my PM list when rotating tires or any time the wheel is off.
The Dill internal TPMS helped me spot a problem, saved a brake, tire possibly and made a potential big problem a manageable inconvenience.
YMMV
Gary
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Great heads up Gary, Thanks.
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10-05-2015, 10:54 AM
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#187
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
alexandria
, Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2
My theory, disc brake pad to caliper contact points were corroded a bit, enough to keep the pads from floating. The AS only goes out about 5 times a year so it sits and is subject to stagnant corrosion.
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This is the main reason I didn't go with disk brakes when I installed new axles 2 years ago. I figured there were times when my trailer won't get used enough and something like this would happen.
Currently we use the trailer from April through October about 1x per month. If someday I can have a real travel schedule I will jump into the disk brake upgrade with both feet.
Glad you were able to make the fix and get down the road. It is good to be independent. This is good thread Gary.
__________________
Steve, Christy, Anna and Phoebe (Border Collie)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley Arrow hitch with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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