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Old 02-12-2018, 07:55 PM   #57
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If I put it behind the sofa, I'd need to pull the sofa out to install and again if I need to bleed the system. It could get messy if there's a spill and the smell of brake fluid would probably always be present.

Do you see any issues if I put the actuator behind the fridge? The brake lines would probably be shorter (a good thing). I'd need to run 10 AWG wires from the batteries to actuator.

Any other issues that I'm not seeing?
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:40 AM   #58
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We put the hydraulic brake pump in the battery box behind the propane tanks as the 600 amp-hour lithium battery is under the sofa of our 31' Classic along with the Magnum MS-2812 inverter/converter..
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:08 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by alano View Post
If I put it behind the sofa, I'd need to pull the sofa out to install and again if I need to bleed the system. It could get messy if there's a spill and the smell of brake fluid would probably always be present.

Do you see any issues if I put the actuator behind the fridge? The brake lines would probably be shorter (a good thing). I'd need to run 10 AWG wires from the batteries to actuator.

Any other issues that I'm not seeing?
The only thing I would be concerned about is the drop in the wire. I used the Hydrastar actuator and they apparently are used mostly on big boat trailers, not RVs, without a main power source on the trailer. They said the power from the actuator comes from the tow vehicle. So if it is OK to run 10 ga from the TV, 10 ga from near the fridge should be fine. After thinking about it, I agree you don't want it behind the sofa. Although I don't have any leakage/seepage from mine and no brake fluid smell in/around the box, adding fluid would be a pain.

You will also have to pull a blue wire from the TV brake controller and a wire from the breakaway switch to that location, as you probably have already figured out.

Al
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:58 PM   #60
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Re-routed brake lines

I said in a previous post that I wasn't happy with the way the tech ran the lines for my new disc brakes. I ran the main line from the actuator to the left front wheel area and he ran the rest.

I spent the last two days re-routing the lines. The actual work didn't take so long, I ended up trying several routing plans before settling. I ended up using the holes where the wires came through for the electric brakes. I pushed out the grommets and they were exactly the right size to fit the end fittings of the flexible hoses that came in the stainless line kit that I ordered. That allowed me to achieve the desired goal of having the lines run down the arms instead of flexing in a loop behind the axle.

Here's a picture of one of the flexible lines.

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Here's the T fitting at the left front wheel. It has a male thread on one end; the other two ports are female. The hose has female fittings on both ends; one end goes through the hole in the frame and is secured with an E-washer and threads onto the T. The front port is the line from the actuator and the line on the left goes to the curb side. T fittings are mounted like this in front of all four wheels. The plumbing goes to the LF, RF, RR, and finally the LR wheels.

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Here's the wheel side showing the flexible line going behind the shock bracket to keep it clear of the tire when it flexes. I will secure the flexible lines to the shock bracket with tie-wraps when I'm all done.

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Here's the caliper end of the flexible line. I used an 8" steel line to extend the flex line to the caliper. I had to get them separate as the Kodiak disc brakes came with 6" lines which were just a little too short. The parts place only had three of the lines so I will finish up tomorrow or Monday whenever the get their stock in.

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Here's a look at the whole caliper setup.

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I'll post how this all turns out.

Al
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:44 PM   #61
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Al,

I'm starting to like that and I'll give it a closer look this sept if that's OK.

The only thing that I saw that I bet is on your punch list is possibly securing the hose to the shock mount. I've found rubber jacketed hose routing clamps at home centers in hardware that might work but outdoor grade ty-wrap mounts might do quite nicely.

That's a whole lot more like how they should have been routed from the start.

Nice job.

Gary
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Old 05-11-2018, 06:29 PM   #62
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Thanks Gary. The location and size of the brake wire hole was a happy coincidence.

Al
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:13 PM   #63
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Al,
It seems to me thats the steel line from the caliper will get fatigued and break over time. Is there something that I am not seeing?
Would it be possible to run the steel line on the exterior of the frame behind the wheels and then put your tee in the for front axle and then to the rear axle?
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Old 05-12-2018, 05:38 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Al,

I'm starting to like that and I'll give it a closer look this sept if that's OK.

The only thing that I saw that I bet is on your punch list is possibly securing the hose to the shock mount. I've found rubber jacketed hose routing clamps at home centers in hardware that might work but outdoor grade ty-wrap mounts might do quite nicely.

That's a whole lot more like how they should have been routed from the start.

Nice job.

Gary


I completely agree. You would think that a shop that has installed many disc brake systems would have done a much better job of routing the lines.

Nice work on your part Al.

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Old 05-12-2018, 06:24 AM   #65
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Al,
It seems to me thats the steel line from the caliper will get fatigued and break over time. Is there something that I am not seeing?
Would it be possible to run the steel line on the exterior of the frame behind the wheels and then put your tee in the for front axle and then to the rear axle?
When I secure the flex line to the shock bracket as I said I still have to do, neither the steel line or the end of the flex line connected to it will move. I don't see how it could fatigue.

Al
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:08 AM   #66
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I completely agree. You would think that a shop that has installed many disc brake systems would have done a much better job of routing the lines.

Nice work on your part Al.

Dan
In all fairness I think I affected how they did the job by supplying all the parts. I intended to be there to direct the line installation but ran off to grab a sandwich while the tech was eating and when I got back he was well on his way putting the lines in. I didn't want to have him tear out what he had done. It took me the better part of a day to figure out how to put these square pegs into the round holes . I recommended the shop to GatorDave for an axle replacement and disc brake install. The tech said he normally runs long flex lines from the T to the caliper. They ran his lines in front of the axles and down the pivot arms using the long flex lines instead of the lines in the kit I recommended to Dave.

My experience was I wanted steel lines for as much of the runs as possible to shorten reaction time. I replaced rubber flex lines with braided stainless on a car one time and was amazed at the difference it made in braking response.

I hope it doesn't leak when I pressurize it all up.

Al
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:54 PM   #67
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My experience was I wanted steel lines for as much of the runs as possible to shorten reaction time. I replaced rubber flex lines with braided stainless on a car one time and was amazed at the difference it made in braking response.

Al
Quality flexible brake hose has those rings around the flex hose for that purpose. You can do braided line or get flex hose with the hard rubber back up.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 05-13-2018, 06:33 AM   #68
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Quote:
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Quality flexible brake hose has those rings around the flex hose for that purpose. You can do braided line or get flex hose with the hard rubber back up.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
Thanks! I have never seen those.

Al
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:18 AM   #69
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Al,

If you are considering abrasion protection split loom is available at auto parts stores etc. it looks like corrugated rain pipe just real small slips right over the hose.

Those hoses are real tough over 1600 PSI operating and ? PSI For burst but they donít like to be rubbed hence the abrasion rings.

Braided need same abrasion resistance too.
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:11 PM   #70
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Final answer!

Here's the final configuration. You can also see the modification to make the shocks fit. The Dexter bracket is 3/8" further out on the axle than was the bracket on the original Henschen axles. We cut the bracket off, welded on a piece of 3/8" steel and welded the end of the bracket to that even with the cut line. Unfortunately the modification makes the shocks difficult or impossible to remove, as they were on the original axles.

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The T fitting is inside the frame and feeds through the original brake wire hole to the flexible hose which is inside a piece of split loom and wire-tied with outdoor ties to the shock bracket. The only movement with the axle is a little angular flex in the hose.


Al
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