DirecLink Brake controller...

[slowmover]

Uh, what sort of other device? (I'd imagine a "yes", but I'd also ask the folks at DIRCELINK what others have experienced).

[boondockdad]

Sumting like this: U7198 DiabloSport Predator Silverado Siera Tahoe Yukon Suburban 99-02 on eBay!
gives real-time feedback and tuning, in addition to code reading
plugs into the OBD port. So, the Direclink would need a pass-thru... splitter, maybe?

[slowmover]

Splitter sounds easy. Ask DIRECLINK, too.

[C5Don]

I was wating for others to answer so I talked to the guy whom runs all the development testing in vehicles as I recall the Brake Contorller once had some "issues", I think with Bulleydog or something like that. I had to make some minor tweaks (I kind of recall) so that we both could talk with a "splitter" where it gets into network addressing issues. Anyway, it then ran with that unit and he said it also coexists with a LOT of the various OBD anayzer tools. He also said that I beleive in some 2012 vehciles some of the vehicle manufacturers do some dynamic address changes that the performance guys didn't see coming and thus they no longer worked and had to make changes, although the DirecLink products still ran OK. So unless those performance guys provide a unit to him do test the system, he can't say for certain on all of them, but the system has not had a problem yet. I am not allowed to tell you why, but let's just say the vehicle manufacturers would have to violate some specs to disable DirecLink. The DL system does "look" for other devices and the "do some stuff" to work, where some of those other devices may not do the same, and since I know some get "sloppy" when it comes to network communications and some may not have expected two devices on the OBDII, the spec does allow for I think up to 5 devices, but the devices "plugged in" need to support that interface. Sorry can't be more specific, but good luck.

[OilnH2o]

The Direclink folks have been great about trying to help isolate and figure out the "buzz" which my wife says is like a high-pitch screech... ("CAN'T you HEAR it?!!" she says...) - and are sending a replacement. Everything else seems to work great and the main functions work fine with the AS -- it controls the brakes. And, yes, there IS a way to adjust the light at night!

I was just sorta focused on the screams both from the control head-handset and She Who Must Be Obeyed.

[slowmover]

(Rumpole piloting a A/S tow rig with Hilda along would be one funny video).

[OilnH2o]

Just a quick update to the above post -

Direclink sent a whole new set and I swapped out the controller itself. Other than the aggravation, time and the cost to send the old unit back, I'm pretty pleased with the unit, it's features, and how it works. It turns out the controller was defective in that it sent a false alert "tone" to the handset, which then could not be turned off. I don't know what the "mean time between failures" might be for working units, but this experience, I'm assuming, should "alert" Tuson to insure the units that ship, work -- out of the box. Thus, I'm assuming my experience will ultimately be a positive one for future customers. And, yes, I would recommend one to a friend!

[C5Don]

OilnH2.: You problem clearly was not an MTBF issue but a manufacturing test issue. The devices do undergo various automated tests for pass/fail but to ny knowledge, "listed for a buzz" was not in any part of the test plans I generated, was likely not added by someone else, and thus they will have to be revised so this doesn't happen again. I have not received the defective unit to determine specifically what happened but I have my suspicions. I am sorry you had the problem and I am certain Tuson will make adjustments so this never happens again. A product I will intorduce shortly also has a beeper where the test plans and test fixturing is not quite done, but to be honest I likely would have "missed the beeper test" again! However, now it clearly won't be missed. Thanks for your patence.

[F450Harley]

Originally Posted by Mexray

I see that Airstream is now offering the DirecLink controller from their Store...

https://store.airstream.com/product_...roducts_id=625

Anyone with installation advice on DirectLink brake controller on 2012 GMC Duramax with OEM integrated brake controller ?. Did you find a plug under the dash board to recieve the #4 Delphi 4 wire harness from the DirectLink control module ? OR you just disconected the OEM intergrated brake controller and use the 4 wires (blue, white, red & black) ? Will appreciate responses from someone that has 2011 -2012 GMC Duramax with OEM integrated brake controller disabled and Directlink brake controller installed. My OEM does not operate my AS Classic Disc brakes and I need to add an after market brake controller aside from P3. Tuson RV brakes (DirectLink) is also looking into this but can't wait
Thanks for all your help.

[dznf0g]

This should help:

#07-08-45-001G: Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller - (Jan 26, 2012)

Subject:Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller

Models:2007-2012 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2007-2012 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2007-2012 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

2008-2010 HUMMER H2

with Integrated Trailer Brake Controller

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2012 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Numbers 07-08-45-001F (Section 08 – Body and Accessories). Important: Installation of an electric brake controller and the wiring connections outlined in this bulletin are the responsibility of the dealership or customer. These repairs should never be charged to warranty. If you have any questions, please consult with your District Service Manager.
Some customers may request to have an aftermarket trailer brake controller added to their vehicle, OR in lieu of the factory integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) (RPO JL1).
Installation Instructions


Starting with the new 2007 full-size utilities and pickups and 2008 HUMMER H2, there is no longer an electric trailer brake controller pigtail harness.
To install an aftermarket trailer brake controller, use the four blunt cut wires located near the data link connector.
The following steps should be used to complete the installation.


Four Blunt Cut Wires


Dark Blue


Circuit 47


Brake Signal to Trailer Connector


Red/Black


Circuit 242


Battery Power


Light Blue/White


Circuit 6311


Brake Switch Input


White


Circuit 22


Ground

[COLOR="brown"] Important: Ensure that the ringlets are not interfering with the UBEC cover.[/COLOR]
1. Place the terminal on the larger of the two studs at the front of the electrical center and secure with an M8 nut. This is circuit #242 to stud #2, to power the aftermarket trailer brake controller.

[COLOR="brown"] Important: The fuse is already present in the vehicle to power the electrical trailer brake controller system.[/COLOR]

2. ONLY For Vehicles Equipped with JL1 – Locate connector X126 or X115 (varies with vehicle build; refer to SI) near the underhood fuse block. Refer to SI Document ID# 1849049 – I/P Harness-Engine Compartment. Circuit 47 from the blunt cut wires near the data link connector will end at connector X126 terminal “G” or X115 terminal “B5.” Obtain enough Dark Blue 12 gauge wire to run from X126/X115 to the 7-way trailer connector at the bumper. On one end of the Dark Blue wire attach terminal part number 15304732, located in Delphi Tray 8 and insert into X126 “G” or terminal part number 15304720 located in Delphi Tray 19 and insert into X115 “B5.” Run the Dark Blue wire in its own conduit along the frame to the 7-way trailer connector at the bumper. Remove circuit 47 from the 7-way trailer connector terminal “C” and tape the bare terminal and attach to the harness. Attach terminal part number 12110853, located in Delphi Tray 4, to the other end of the Dark Blue wire and insert it into the 7-way trailer connector terminal “C.”

3. ONLY For Vehicles Equipped with JL1 – The Red/Black wire, circuit 242, must be connected to stud #2 of the 30 Amp fuse of the underhood fuse block. This wire is located between the left fender and the underhood fuse block.

[COLOR="brown"] Important: This procedure will not result in any trailer brake related display messages to be set. However, ITBC diagnostics will continue to function. If an ITBC fault is detected, a “Service Trailer Brake System” message will be displayed on the driver information center (DIC) and an appropriate DTC will be stored in the ITBC module. The operator will still be able to adjust gain and access the “Trailer Gain / Output” display page in the DIC. However, the factory installed ITBC system will not sense a trailer connection and will not provide output to the trailer.[/COLOR]
4. Locate the trailer brake control circuits that are looped and taped to the main harness under the instrument panel.

5. Pull the trailering wire harness down.

6. Match the vehicle harness label circuit functions to the trailer brake controller jumper harness functions.

[COLOR="brown"] Important: The color or wires to be joined together may not match.[/COLOR]

• Dark Blue Wire: switched power from controller to trailer brakes

• Red with Black Stripe: fused vehicle power to electrical brake controller

• Light Blue with White Stripe: Brake switch input to power electric brake controller

• White: ground

• Orange: CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp) — not required with most systems

7. After completing the under dash connections to the electric brake controller, open the hood and locate the red wire that is taped to the harness between the underhood electrical center and the driver side front fender.

8. Break the tape on the red/black wire and pull it toward the front of vehicle.

9. Remove the lid from the electrical center.

Auxiliary Power (Applies to All LD and 2007-2009 HD's Only) Without JL1





Circuit #742 for Auxiliary Power at the 7-way trailer connector is no longer connected by the GM Assembly Plant. If the customer desires auxiliary power at the trailer connector location (i.e. refrigeration, battery charger or interior light in the trailer), complete the following steps to connect circuit #742:

1. Locate the red/black wire, looped and taped to the chassis harness, below the brake master cylinder.

2. Break the tape and route the wire to the front of the underhood electrical center.

[COLOR="brown"] Important: Ensure that the ringlets are not interfering with the UBEC cover.[/COLOR]
3. Place the terminal on the smaller of the two studs on the electrical center and secure with an M6 fastener. This is circuit #742 to stud #1 for auxiliary power to the 7-way trailer connector.

4. ONLY for vehicles without RPO TP2 - Auxiliary Battery, install a 40♦amp fuse to power the circuit.

[COLOR="brown"] Important: For vehicles equipped with RPO TP2 — Devices powered by this fuse will drain the vehicle battery if left connected with the vehicle not running.[/COLOR]

Warranty Information


This installation procedure is to be performed at the customer's request and at their expense. It is not a warranty repair and a claim should not be submitted for reimbursement.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

© 2012 General Motors. All rights reserved.

[dznf0g]

There's another step to use the blue wire independent of the ITBC. I gotta find it or go out to the truck. Stay tuned.

[dznf0g]

Note: I chose to run a wire all the way to the rear of the vehicle, as I will need to return to a permanent "as manufactured" state before I turn in the vehicle and I did not want to tear apart the trailer umbilical harness on the truck side. If you want to, locate the blue wire in the harness AFTER or DOWNSTREAM from the ITBC module. I have not researched where to locate access to the wire at that point. You're on you own.

1) Locate the blue wire on the inboard side of the underhood electrical connector and cut it on the top side as shown.





Run a separate wire all the way back to the backside of the trailer connector. Cut the blue wire and splice in your new wire to the trailer connector.



For a more durable, long term and watertight connection, use a self sealing butt connector, shrink wrap, or your favorite type of connector.

[F450Harley]

Great info dznf0g. Thanks for leading the charge on this.

[C5Don]

@dznf0g: I received an email to answer this question but wow, you did 1000% better than I would have done. You sure you don't have a future career in making manuals?

@F450Harley: Bottom line is to use DirecInk you need to disconnect the vehicles brake controllers blue wire and connect the DirecLinks blue wire, so they don't interfere with each other. DirecLink will dynamically switch between normal blue wire operation and "network operation' based upon the wiring conditions of the vehicle into which it is installed and "what it finds" connected to it; (electric brakes, Tuson system, or other hydraulic system). To operate as a "network" you need to disconnect any other brake controller from the blue wire that goes from DirecLink brake controller to Tuson Hydraulic system. Additionally, if two brake controllers were connected then the braking level would effectively likely be the "greater" of the braking provided by either brake controller, or more likely a LOT more, as they may not be pulsing in sync with each other. In effect all brake controllers send a 300Hz pulse width modulated signal to the brakes, increasing the "on time" as more braking is required. When direclink is operational, it sends "network messages" and also gets "system status information" in the response messages, as well as sends "configuraton data" from brake controller user interface to the hydraulic actuator system. Thus if some "other non direclink capable device" were connected to he blue wire it would "likely short the network signals" and thus shut down direclink, not to mention give you "very unique" braking behavior. Good luck as it looks like you are in very good hands on this site.

[dznf0g]

C5, thanks. But most of my future is behind me. I actually did some technical writing many years ago, as well as owner manual writing. The first post is a published GM Service Bulletin, but the part about the separate blue wire is vague at best.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

This should help:

#07-08-45-001G: Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller - (Jan 26, 2012)

Subject:Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller

Models:2007-2012 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2007-2012 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2007-2012 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

2008-2010 HUMMER H2

with Integrated Trailer Brake Controller

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2012 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Numbers 07-08-45-001F (Section 08 – Body and Accessories). Important: Installation of an electric brake controller and the wiring connections outlined in this bulletin are the responsibility of the dealership or customer. These repairs should never be charged to warranty. If you have any questions, please consult with your District Service Manager.
Some customers may request to have an aftermarket trailer brake controller added to their vehicle, OR in lieu of the factory integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC)

I have only found a handful of threads that address this but should I expect my ITBC in my 2013 Silverado Duramax will not work with the brakes on a 2012 or 2013 Flting Cloud 27FB?

[dznf0g]

The GM ITBC will work with ALL electric drum brakes. They will NOT work with Electric over Hydraulic Disc brakes. The electrical architecture will change when the all new 2014s come out next year.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

The GM ITBC will work with ALL electric drum brakes. They will NOT work with Electric over Hydraulic Disc brakes. The electrical architecture will change when the all new 2014s come out next year.

Hmmm...the Flying Cloud manual says that >25' trailers use Dexter Nev-r-adjust brakes. I also searched that entire PDF for the word "hydraulic" and it only mentions the jack. Are these brakes electric drum (internet search seems to suggest that??) or electric over hydraulic disc? Chevy manual states their ITBC is not meant for E/H.

Still googling solutions if the latter. Wiring magnets in?? Converter kits? Use a P3 aftermarket controller (not to be confused with 3P hitch). Oy!

The AS manual also suggests asking if you don't understand. I'm just following the advice of the manual :-D. Thanks in advance.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

The GM ITBC will work with ALL electric drum brakes. They will NOT work with Electric over Hydraulic Disc brakes. The electrical architecture will change when the all new 2014s come out next year.

http://blog.easternmarine.com/dexter...railer-brakes/

This is one example of a reference to Dexter's Nev-r-adjust being an electric drum. It's just not clear in the AS manual.

BTW, dznf0g, are you talking about the electrical architecture in the 2014 Chevy or AS?

[newroswell]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Hmmm...the Flying Cloud manual says that >25' trailers use Dexter Nev-r-adjust brakes. I also searched that entire PDF for the word "hydraulic" and it only mentions the jack. Are these brakes electric drum (internet search seems to suggest that??) or electric over hydraulic disc? Chevy manual states their ITBC is not meant for E/H.

Still googling solutions if the latter. Wiring magnets in?? Converter kits? Use a P3 aftermarket controller (not to be confused with 3P hitch). Oy!

The AS manual also suggests asking if you don't understand. I'm just following the advice of the manual :-D. Thanks in advance.

You have electric drum brakes and they will work very well with the Chevy's integrated brake controller. You don't need the DirecLink controller being discussed in this thread. Hitch up and go!