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AtomicNo13 · 09-07-2015, 07:00 AM

Don't get me wrong, spare parts is good!

Some seem to feel many things are made of umobtanium..... You just need to know where to look!

**GCinSC2** · 09-07-2015, 07:02 AM

Atomic,

Guess we'll call you lucky for having readily available parts. Sorta stuck with the 4 piston Dexter, works great no reason to change.

But learning about your brakes no matter type or brand, priceless.

Gary

Ampman · 09-07-2015, 07:35 AM

What do you ask for from the guy at the parts counter when seeking a replacement set of pads for the Kodiak brakes? They don't have a listing for travel trailers in their parts computer. When I first tried that route they suggested I travel across town to an RV place but it was Sunday and they were closed. Read somewhere that an equivalent pad for an old GM car or something would fit but I don't know what year or model. I gave up and just ordered from kodiak on line. That was at home with parts stores on every corner. Couldn't imagine being on the road in need of parts. But I will try again to get pads at the corner parts store, maybe the young man with the tattoos and nose ring behind the counter will put down his cell phone long enough to help me out.

AtomicNo13 · 09-07-2015, 03:01 PM

Pads for Kodiak Calipers:

#225 caliper 1980-1990 Buick Skylark pad #d-289

#250 caliper 1983-1995 Buick century #md-215

#338 caliper Chevy pickup #d459
All are front pads

Bearing, Race and Seal Information

•Bearings
Inner bearing: 25580
Outer bearing: 15123

•Races
Inner race: 25520
Outer race: 15245

•Seal: RG06-070
Inner diameter: 2.250"
Outer diameter: 3.376"

Last time I used AutoZone pads. $ cost me $32.97 for my triaxle. I replaced these June 2015

switz · 09-07-2015, 03:14 PM

We converted our 2014 Classic to the Kodiak disc brakes and installed a Titan BrakeRite II SD pump with remote control module. The wholesaler failed to mention that the Titan pump system was completely incompatible with all the built in brake controllers.

We acquired the DirecLink NE brake control that plugs into the truck's data port where it reads all the operating parameters, like when power is removed from the throttle.

We plan to upgrade to the Tuson ABS Actulink brake pump which will require new calipers and rotors with the ABS sensor rings. The step below their ABS disc brake system is their anti-sway system that does differential braking to keep things in line with electric drum brakes.

Ampman · 09-07-2015, 04:24 PM

Thanks Atomic, I'll check em out next time before I order the kodiak pads from kodiak. Are they made in the US? If not I'll pass on em. I'll also stick to the USA made Timken bearings and races that I paid twice as much for from inland truck and axle. Found that even Timken has some sets made off shore so you have to request US only. Sounds crazy but I will pay more and search harder for US made products if they are available. Thanks again!

m.hony · 09-07-2015, 08:06 PM

My 2013 Classic came with drum brakes.
Although they perfotm well, I am cosidering upgrading to disc brakes when it is time to get brakes. I think disc brakes may stop in a shorter distance.

wander-west · 09-08-2015, 03:26 AM

Switz does your classic have Nev-R-Lube spindles / bearings? If so which Kodiak rotors work for this retrofit?

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AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 06:05 AM

The pads are labelled as mfd in the USA, not sure about the Timkin bearings and races.... Never have replaced one. Can't recall looking on the seals.

Ampman · 09-08-2015, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

The pads are labelled as mfd in the USA, not sure about the Timkin bearings and races.... Never have replaced one. Can't recall looking on the seals.

Awesome, would have to order them also because they are not in store stock at the local parts store. Not too many 80-90's Buick Skylarks still around I guess. Im gonna stay with the kodiak parts for now. Cost way more but still cheap insurance in the grand scheme of things. Plus if something acts up I can get on kodiak about their parts. The bearing seals have all been made offshore as well, been buying those by the dozen from Etrailer. Have not found a US made one yet. Any ideas?

AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 06:58 AM

Kodak screwed owners last year....
They no longer honor their forever warranty on ceramic pads!
I then replaced mine with their semi metallic pads and they failed through cracks and chunks falling off!
Auto store pads work much better for 1/3 the cost!

AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 06:59 AM

I'm using a 3 lip nitrile seal for years without failure. I'll look up the number for you.

labalope · 09-08-2015, 07:02 AM

I am new to these forums, and we are looking to buy a classic 30, This talk of bearings, drum versus disk brakes, and controllers, etc has me worried. Are not the factory installed brakes any good, whether they be disk or drum, I have always been in a motor home never pulled a trailer. I like the idea of 16" tires, are they standard on a classic and centramatics, I had those on the motorhome, and they are great, I like a TPMS, Does the truck you pull with, in my case a 2500 Chevy Dura max diesel, with allison tranny have to have some special apparatus to be able to tow one of the classics? We are down sizing to be able to visit national parks etc, Gary Carmichael

dznf0g · 09-08-2015, 07:07 AM

Gary,

Both types of brakes work well, but just like cars, Disc brakes have advantages...like a shorter stopping distance. Both types have their pros and cons, but I wouldn't worry yourself over the minutia details offered by us detail oriented folks. I believe 16" are now standard on Classics, but were not until 2015??? It is an easy conversion if you buy used.
Your truck is FINE for a 30' Classic. I would bet it has the HD tow package already. You don't say what year it is, but the most you might have to do is install a brake controller, which is also an easy job.

AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 07:12 AM

Hi Gary, welcome!
Yes the magnetic drum brakes work, however the hydraulic discs are just awesome, work much better!
There are better seals available, bearings aren't really an issue!
Everyone likes Timken, but there are several good manufacturers!
It is good to have spares, as to avoid down time in the event of a failure. Not really a common occurance!
I'm personally a fan of the nevr lube hubs as you cannot service them! When they're spent they are bad!
I like the ability to maintain stuff.
I fulltime and to about 50k miles a year. I have learned what to worry about, and what parts to use and or carry.

labalope · 09-08-2015, 07:27 AM

Thanks all, I hope the Airstream will be a little less complicated than the last motor home we had, I am a fan of PM On the bus we replaced tires every five years same with the batteries, but was running 365-tires, can you get Michelin tires in 16 inch and what ply and pressure do you run, also what is the life and when are the tires to be changed out. again we are looking to simplify, I want to flip a switch and the light comes on, not have to worry whether the computer will recognize me or if the darn thing shuts down and you cannot even get in the thing much less operate anything, any body else been there? Gary

dznf0g · 09-08-2015, 07:27 AM

Atomic has a preference to maintain, and there is nothing wrong with that...but there have not been any unusual number of reports of sealed bearing failures here on the forum...with or without Centramatics installed. I prefer Nev-r-lubes for the following reasons:
1) no need for annual repacks

2) typical life of automotive sealed bearings is around 100,000 miles (give or take 10 - 20 K. But you have zero maintenance. Let's be honest, it isn't unusual for traditional bearings to have similar life.

3) With discs you can still perform your regular brake inspections with no or minimal disassembly of componentry.

I do carry one extra sealed bearing assembly with me on my travels, due to the uncommon availability, depending where you are. Any shop with a press can easily replace.

Again, there is some personal preference in this choice and really not a correct or incorrect choice.

AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 10:06 AM

I have 250000k miles on my classic, original bearings!
Do that with a Vaseline greased sealed , non servicable bearing.....

AtomicNo13 · 09-08-2015, 10:08 AM

It's really rare that a bearing fails anyway! With proper preload a earring should last a good long time. Synthetic greased also add to the longevity.

A too tight bearing will always fail before a too loose bearing!

dznf0g · 09-08-2015, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

I have 250000k miles on my classic, original bearings!
Do that with a Vaseline greased sealed , non servicable bearing.....

You certainly are on the top margin of the population of wheeled vehicles out there on the road. I commend you on your evidenced regular and proper maintenance....but that is not the norm, unfortunately.