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Old 03-10-2016, 12:23 PM   #15
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You can just do a walk around and feel the hubs for a good comparison check . I could feel mine tug to one side...hand checked the Temps, found one cool. Further check and a wire was broken behind the wheel. Repaired wire and all good. 03 31' classic with excellent stopping power but never have locked them up. But never really tried. Hope I don't have to!!
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:16 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=Al and Missy;1760138]

Is this normal? I was always comfortable with stopping the 25; the brakes were so good it seemed like the truck stopped almost as well with the trailer as without. The 30 is much worse.


Our 1993 30' Excella also exhibits the same characteristics. Previous towing was with Tekonsha P3 controller and at the highest setting trailer braking was pretty weak. Currently using the built-in controller on the Sierra 2500 the braking is much better and when combined with the better braking of the TV makes for comfortable stopping. Nevertheless, locking the trailer brakes is impossible at maximum unless on gravel. I got used to it and drive accordingly.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:54 PM   #17
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Best braking force is just before lockup. So lockup is not desireable, leads to loss of control.
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Old 03-10-2016, 03:34 PM   #18
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And one can not determine the best braking force that would be available until one experiences lock up.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:24 PM   #19
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Our 2007 30so Classic 10,300# (hydraulic disk brakes) is able to lock it's brakes. i.e. When the hitch receiver fell off (bad welding) breakaway activated. Also, if my brake controller (TruControl gold) set to setting too high, the wheels would lock up and smoke when applying brakes.
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:23 AM   #20
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It may help to keep adjusting the shoes every few hundred stops until the brakes are bedded in. Then drive within the limits of what you have. A few hard stops on a wide, smooth, empty road will be informative.
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:13 AM   #21
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And one can not determine the best braking force that would be available until one experiences lock up.

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Correct, best to go to lockup and then back off controller, just wanted to be sure no one was being misled in believing that lock up was the ideal situation.
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:17 AM   #22
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Besides weight , with same brakes, taller tires will have less braking power...
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:05 AM   #23
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Just to refresh everyone, the wheels and tires were removed from the 25 and put on the 30. No difference there. Same truck, same brake controller. From the perspective of the brakes, the only thing that is different is the brakes themselves and the weight of the trailer. It seems there are people who have comparable trailers that can lock the brakes. I think I probably should be able to lock the brakes or get close. I feel I have insufficient braking power, so I plan to tear into them when I get home. I did all I could before having to leave on this trip and hoped it was enough. I have brakes, just not as good as I think they should/could be. I could be mistaken about that, but the only way to know is to open them up.

Thanks everyone.

Al
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:16 AM   #24
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You really set the brake controller as high as it can go on your Duramax? I've set mine to 6.5 with our new Classic. Have towed it over 2000 miles now. Thx.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:24 AM   #25
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One also needs to check the wire gage coming from the factory brake controller. Our 2012 Ram 2500HD towing package used #16 wire from the built-in brake controller to the back of the truck. When I installed the Tuson DirecLink brake controller, we ran #10 wire directly from the battery (thru a 30 amp auto-reset breaker) to the controller and then to the back of the truck. Used #10 with an auto-reset breaker for the charging circuit as well.

Might also use electrical contact cleaner on both sides of the umbilical cord connection so be sure there is good contact. Look to see if the contacts have any rust since they are steel.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:22 AM   #26
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Our 1970 Safari has NEVER locked up. I have had new shoes and magnets installed (drums have not been changed to my knowledge). Still can not get the brakes to lock. Had 2 different local AS shops in the Los Angeles area look at it and everything is ok. Kind of bothers me, but I have always been able to stop in time in all situations....some a little closer than I would have likedhttp://www.airforums.com/forums/images/smilies/blink.gif
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:52 AM   #27
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We converted our 31' 2014 Classic to Kodiak disk brakes. Parts are readily available. Even at the loaded for camping 9,200 pounds, it is possible to lock the wheels if I crank the controller to max.
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:52 PM   #28
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This gives me an idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
One also needs to check the wire gage coming from the factory brake controller. Our 2012 Ram 2500HD towing package used #16 wire from the built-in brake controller to the back of the truck. When I installed the Tuson DirecLink brake controller, we ran #10 wire directly from the battery (thru a 30 amp auto-reset breaker) to the controller and then to the back of the truck. Used #10 with an auto-reset breaker for the charging circuit as well.

Might also use electrical contact cleaner on both sides of the umbilical cord connection so be sure there is good contact. Look to see if the contacts have any rust since they are steel.
While whatever wire size is in the truck was sufficient for the 25 and should also be OK for the 30, I realized that another thing that is different is the umbilical cable. The contacts are corroded. I checked the magnet current at the breakaway switch. I need to measure the current in the main brake line on the trailer when driven by the integrated controller.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Al
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