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xrvr · 03-11-2016, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Action

And one can not determine the best braking force that would be available until one experiences lock up.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Correct, best to go to lockup and then back off controller, just wanted to be sure no one was being misled in believing that lock up was the ideal situation.

tjdonahoe · 03-11-2016, 06:17 AM

Besides weight , with same brakes, taller tires will have less braking power...

Al and Missy · 03-11-2016, 08:05 AM

Just to refresh everyone, the wheels and tires were removed from the 25 and put on the 30. No difference there. Same truck, same brake controller. From the perspective of the brakes, the only thing that is different is the brakes themselves and the weight of the trailer. It seems there are people who have comparable trailers that can lock the brakes. I think I probably should be able to lock the brakes or get close. I feel I have insufficient braking power, so I plan to tear into them when I get home. I did all I could before having to leave on this trip and hoped it was enough. I have brakes, just not as good as I think they should/could be. I could be mistaken about that, but the only way to know is to open them up.

Thanks everyone.

Al

caseywsj · 03-11-2016, 08:16 AM

Gary-

You really set the brake controller as high as it can go on your Duramax? I've set mine to 6.5 with our new Classic. Have towed it over 2000 miles now. Thx.

switz · 03-11-2016, 08:24 AM

One also needs to check the wire gage coming from the factory brake controller. Our 2012 Ram 2500HD towing package used #16 wire from the built-in brake controller to the back of the truck. When I installed the Tuson DirecLink brake controller, we ran #10 wire directly from the battery (thru a 30 amp auto-reset breaker) to the controller and then to the back of the truck. Used #10 with an auto-reset breaker for the charging circuit as well.

Might also use electrical contact cleaner on both sides of the umbilical cord connection so be sure there is good contact. Look to see if the contacts have any rust since they are steel.

1970 Safari · 03-11-2016, 09:22 AM

Our 1970 Safari has NEVER locked up. I have had new shoes and magnets installed (drums have not been changed to my knowledge). Still can not get the brakes to lock. Had 2 different local AS shops in the Los Angeles area look at it and everything is ok. Kind of bothers me, but I have always been able to stop in time in all situations....some a little closer than I would have likedhttp://www.airforums.com/forums/images/smilies/blink.gif

switz · 03-12-2016, 07:52 AM

We converted our 31' 2014 Classic to Kodiak disk brakes. Parts are readily available. Even at the loaded for camping 9,200 pounds, it is possible to lock the wheels if I crank the controller to max.

Al and Missy · 03-12-2016, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

One also needs to check the wire gage coming from the factory brake controller. Our 2012 Ram 2500HD towing package used #16 wire from the built-in brake controller to the back of the truck. When I installed the Tuson DirecLink brake controller, we ran #10 wire directly from the battery (thru a 30 amp auto-reset breaker) to the controller and then to the back of the truck. Used #10 with an auto-reset breaker for the charging circuit as well.

Might also use electrical contact cleaner on both sides of the umbilical cord connection so be sure there is good contact. Look to see if the contacts have any rust since they are steel.

While whatever wire size is in the truck was sufficient for the 25 and should also be OK for the 30, I realized that another thing that is different is the umbilical cable. The contacts are corroded. I checked the magnet current at the breakaway switch. I need to measure the current in the main brake line on the trailer when driven by the integrated controller.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Al

ghaynes755 · 03-12-2016, 06:56 PM

Casey I ran it at 6.5 for the FC 25. Tried to do the normal setup as outlined in the GMC manual. Get to about 15mph on a level surface, truck to neutral and use the manual controller. Set the number as high as it would go without lockup. Since it won't lock at a setting of 10 I simply leave it at 10.

66Overlander · 03-13-2016, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caseywsj

Gary-

You really set the brake controller as high as it can go on your Duramax? I've set mine to 6.5 with our new Classic. Have towed it over 2000 miles now. Thx.

I am not the original poster, but I have a 2016 30' Classic and 2015 Duramax with integrated brake controller and cannot lock up the brakes with the gain set to 10. Both the truck and trailer have been tested are are supposedly fine. I definitely have braking power, just not enough to lock the trailer tires.

**GCinSC2** · 03-13-2016, 05:40 PM

66overlander,

Any buddies with a different TV that you can hook up and do a brake test with?

I know nothing about your IBC but have you double checked the settings if so equipped on the IBC?

Tater · 03-14-2016, 07:44 AM

Al, I can't speak for the Ram but our 15 Silverado pulling a 30' classic does not lock the brakes. After I hook up, I have the gain set on 9 I believe. I pinch the controller and and see if it holds the trailer and truck and it does. I don't know what the truck computer does to keep things stabilized but it plays a role. I have never tried to slide my trailer wheels, just stop straight in line with the truck.

Al and Missy · 03-14-2016, 08:57 AM

The reason I am concerned about locking the brakes is all the procedures I have read for setting brake controller gain say to go to the point where the brakes lock up and back off until they don't. I am not close to locking up so I believe I am not close to the braking power I should have.

Al