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Old 12-19-2014, 10:23 PM   #15
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Timmah:
As I understand it, the boost determines how much current is supplied in the first five seconds. At B0, the current rises from 0 to the level predicted by the deceleration sensor. B1 gives an initial pulse at 15% more than demand, B2 and B3 are progressively higher. When I pick up the trailer tomorrow I'm going to test it at B1 and if it is still grabbing I'm going to try B0. My trailer weighs about 1000# less than my truck. The manual says I should be at B0 or B1.

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The only way that magnet is different is if it is defective. It matches the other three in appearance. It was ordered as the magnet for 12" Reliable brakes, and both magnets on the rear axle were replaced at the same time.

Al
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:30 PM   #16
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I'm saying regardless of the boost you may have too much voltage going to your brakes than what is needed for smooth operation. If you are in testing mode tomorrow try dialing back the voltage as well. See if that makes a difference.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:00 AM   #17
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I would jack up the trailer so you can spin the wheels.

Spin each wheel to test for smooth rotation and no high spots in the drums. If the wheel in question is the odd one the drum may be warped or a return spring may have broken. If all is OK have someone is the TV. Spin a wheel and call for them to manually apply the brakes. The wheel should slam to a stop. Repeat with each wheel.

If only the wheel in question stops the wiring is the problem.

If the test don' show the problem I would remove the drum that is locking and do a visual inspection.
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:06 AM   #18
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Timmah:
I didn't mention it before, but my first reaction was to turn down the current. It was originally set between 8 and 9 and for the first 1000 miles that was great. On the last trip back to storage I was testing it and turned it down to 6 with no improvement.

HowieE:
I do remember that one or more of the brakes had a very slight high spot I noticed when I was adjusting the brakes. How much, if any, of a high spot is acceptable? With a wheel spinning, I could hear a swish-swish as the wheel(s?) went around.

Maybe I should just go for it and have the shoe surface of the drum turned. There is plenty of thickness left or just bite the bullet and replace the drums. It probably wouldn't be much more expensive and about the same amount of work (got to pull the bearings anyway).


Thanks Guys!

Al
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:49 AM   #19
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Hi, remove that one wheel and check the brake shoe return springs. A weak spring can cause this too. If not a broken, or obviously weakened spring, [gaps between coils or burned off paint] do the drop test. A good spring will have a little twang to it and a bad spring will just thud. Drop the springs on a concrete driveway or garage floor.
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:07 PM   #20
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Picked up the trailer and drove home. After warming up the brakes, turned the boost off and adjusted the current. Just starting to lock up at 8.2 or 8.3 but I can't tell how many brakes are locking. Gonna have to go to a parking lot or something. I really prefer the braking action at B1, but I could live with B0. Drove all the way home without any grabbing at B1 and current 8.0. I'm going to pull the wheel anyway. While I have it off the ground I'll check the braking action on both brakes, but the current looks right for all 4 magnets working. I'll also pull and check the springs on that wheel.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Al
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Old 12-20-2014, 04:02 PM   #21
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Al and Missy

I've done a work on brakes and I'd be happy to help you as much as I can with your problem. However, it would be better if I spoke with you over the phone since there are a lot of variables that could cause the problem. I can furnish my number or you can send me your number if you'd like to make phone contact.

I have a 1994 Excella 1000 Classic. Look forward to hearning from you.

Toppy Dawson
dawsonpt@gmail.com
SC #19781 I will send my phone munder to you by email your email
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:41 PM   #22
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Took the drum off today

Everything looks OK. Prior to pulling it I compared the drag and braking action of the front and rear left brakes. Spinning by hand with DW operating the brake controller, the action on the two brakes seemed to be the same (they both grab). The rear brake, however, had more drag when spinning with no brake current.

Everything under the drum looked normal. Nice and clean except for brake dust, no grease in the drum or on the shoes. Wear on the new magnet looked normal, ditto on the magnet surface of the drum. Springs all in place and resistance to pulling on the magnet lever felt like all the other brakes as best I can remember. The only odd thing was that when re-mounting the drum, it seemed like the drum went too far on the axle. At least half the hole in the axle for the cotter pin is above the top of the castellated nut. I don't know where to get any specs on the depth of the race in the hub and the length of the axle from the inner bearing surface. The edge of the drum looks right with respect to the backing plate rim, so I don't think there is anything wrong here, but it seemed odd.

My best guess at this time is the brake was adjusted too tight. I didn't pull the springs to test them. If the adjustment doesn't fix it, I guess that's the next step. I loosened it so it felt about like the one on the front axle. I'll just have to drive it and see how it works.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.

Al
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Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
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2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

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Old 12-27-2014, 12:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
The rear brake, however, had more drag when spinning with no brake current.

My best guess at this time is the brake was adjusted too tight. I guess that's the next step.
I loosened it so it felt about like the one on the front axle. I'll just have to drive it and see how it works.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.

Al
I would agree with your finding and assumption.

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