Breakaway wires frayed- how to repair?

[SteveSueMac]

I may have outsmarted myself...

My propane tank cover has a small semi circle cut out so the umbilical cord and harness for the breakaway switch (and jack) can protrude to the front of the a-frame.

To address my concern about the cover cutting the umbilical, I purchased some nylon reinforced hose to wrap around the umbilical. Unfortunately, I think the additional outer diameter this created in that space must have rubbed the breakaway harness against the frame and exposed some wires. I only noticed this while setting up this weekend and seeing sparks on the a-frame as I was moving the umbilical cord after unhitching (I shut the propane off immediately).

I wrapped the harness in electrical tape just to prevent any more contact with the frame but I definitely want to repair this before our next trip (this coming Friday). I was worried the short would have engaged the brakes all weekend but it didn't and everything operates fine. We made it home fine too but the thought of a short engaging the brakes while at highway speed is disconcerting to say the least.

I'm assuming this is a case of disconnecting the batteries, splicing in electrical wires in the area they've been exposed (whether soldered or crimped), re-covering the harness in electrical tape and reconnecting the batteries. Yes? Does this solution make sense? Am I missing something?

BTW - There are several breakaway threads here but none that I found matched my specific issue. Pics below.

Thanks!

[drboyd]

In my ever so humble opinion, that was a pretty lame original design. While you have all that apart, put a gubber grommet in that hole. Like so:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_423484-37672...ductId=4565073

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by drboyd

In my ever so humble opinion, that was a pretty lame original design. While you have all that apart, put a gubber grommet in that hole. Like so:



http://www.lowes.com/pd_423484-37672...ductId=4565073

I agree it's pretty poorly designed. The hose was meant to serve as a protective ring (instead of a grommet in the cover) but it must have pressed the breakaway harness in to the frame and frayed some wiring. I need to open that space up on the cover a bit more anyway....

Any thoughts on the re-wiring options?

[drboyd]

I ran some of my solar wires inside fuel injection hose, itself inside electrical conduit.

[SteveSueMac]

The question I'm asking (buried too deep in the first post) is this:

To repair this - I'm assuming this is a case of disconnecting the batteries, splicing in electrical wires in the area they've been exposed (whether soldered or crimped), re-covering the harness in electrical tape and reconnecting the batteries. Yes? Does this solution make sense? Am I missing something?

The other info is helpful too - but I could use some help on this particular question. Thanks.

[Gearheart]

I do not trust crimped connections. I've had too many of them fail and I have the industrial crimping pliers. I suggest soldering and shrink tubing over the solder joint. A grommet in the hole is highly recommended as well. Barring the grommet, some stainless wrapped hose, such as is used for connecting sink taps, can be placed over the wires before soldering and then slid into place to protect the wires from further damage.

[AnnArborBob]

While not addressing your specific question about how to repair this wire, I too have had issues with the design of this "hole" in the bottom of the propane tank cover. In looking at the setup I noted that it is not necessary to run the cable which connects to the tow vehicle through this opening, just snake it under the propane cover to the right (as you face the trailer) as shown in the attached image. This gives you more room for the other wires and makes it easier to protect them.

[joel]

I would make the hole a little larger for good clearance.cut and solder the connections . use heat shrink tubing over each wire. This will provide extra protection. Also just a hint for easier soldering. Get a butane cream brulet torch from any kitchen sales area, at Walmart or other . great for small wires .

[Sphere Guy]

Yes, your solution is sound. Repair the wires and protect from future damage and rubbing.

After the repair, you can place a few washers under the cover bracket to give you more height and give the wires more room.

[featherbedder]

IMO a crimped wire with heat shrink over them will not come apart as I have done many semi trailers this way also moisture is cause of many failures.

[CruizinDux]

Our first trip after taking delivery last year, I noticed the dealer had routed the power cable, jack & the breakaway all through the one opening. I was surprised the cover hadn't already cut thru all three.

I filed the opening smooth and rerouted the power cord to make space. My BA was in the protected cover routing the jack connection which I wrapped in ele. tape to get home.

When I got home, the dealer enlarged the hole...I got out my jigsaw and a file and continued. I tried some reinforced rubber hose I had as someone mentioned it on the threads but it was to thick. I wrapped the protected cover in 3-4 wraps of a bike inner tube and zip tied it. I also slit open a section 1/4" drip tube and lined the inside curve of the opening for extra measure. I used the drip tube so I could control the length needed to fit the opening

I was in for warranty work on the jack last week and the power cord fix entered our jack discussion. I finally said, since I don't have a rivet gun (yet) why don't you make some room here past the existing rivets which limit the opening width, re-rivet and make this right which they gladly did.

As for the connection when I swapped out my refer fan, I used a couple of butt connections, but drilled out the stop in the middle and used it as an end connection. I soldered the wires, slipped the soldered connection in one end of the butt connector (full length) and crimped...slipped some shrink tube over the full connection to seal it up.

Lastly there have been some threads re availability of 30A slow blow glass fuses for the jack so I'm thinking of swapping out the existing connection (which always seems to get jostled & unconnected) for a newer blade type slow blow fuse. I'm thinking this is not critical as I should have a supply of glass fuses tomorrow, but thinking this as a winter project.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...-151073-2.html

#46 from richw46


Thanks

Bob

[StreamDog]

SSM, the wire I see in your pix looks like the electric jack wire, not the breakaway.

[SteveSueMac]

Thanks for the additional insights.

StreamDog - it is both. The larger wire is the jack, the two smaller wires are coming right off that square box which is the breakaway switch. The 3 wires (which must tie directly to the battery allowing the Jack and BA switch to be used even if in "store" mode) are collected as a harness of sorts through that semi-circle cut in the LP tank cover; also the location of the umbilical exit to the TV.

[SteveSueMac]

What has two thumbs and "crossed the road"?

THIS GUY!

😕

I chickened out and brought it to a local RV dealer to do the fix. I'm just not comfortable enough with electricity and sparks near propane tanks. Going to have them replace the BA switch entirely, splice the wires that are frayed and a couple other minor things while they have it.

Thanks for the advice though. Much appreciated!

[CruizinDux]

[CruizinDux...I was in for warranty work on the jack last week and the power cord fix entered our jack discussion. I finally said, since I don't have a rivet gun (yet) why don't you make some room here past the existing rivets which limit the opening width, re-rivet and make this right which they gladly did.]

As you can see by comparing this to the other pictures, when they cut the opening wider, they cut on the outside of the rivets...plenty of room for the power cord and the jack/BA wring with the OEM protection all wrapped in some bike tubing and zip tied.]

SteveSueMac, nothing wrong with having a good shop step in, especially on the ele. side and certainly not a reflection of anyone's capabilities.

B

[SteveSueMac]

Looks good! Nice work on the grommet!

I'll snag a pic of the fix tomorrow. They replaced the entire BA switch, replaced 3 frayed wires, put them in a new harness and that is wrapped inside the hose I bought to act as a super grommet as the only cable going through the hole in the tank cover. I'm running the umbilical out the bottom of the cover now. All set to hit the road and I feel more confident that it was done right.

[Gene]

This design stupidity has been a problem for many years. Just another thing Airstream can't be bothered changing. When I went to JC for warranty work years ago, they fixed it. You can either reroute the wires or cover them with something thick enough to protect the wires. Plastic stuff (never have remembered the name) that wraps around works fine and it easy to find with other electrical stuff in aftermarket auto stores and probably at hardware stores.

I'm told solder doesn't last as long as push on, crimped wires. Solder will break as wires flex constantly. I don't have an industrial strength crimper, but the one I do have seems to work pretty well.

Gene

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by Gene

This design stupidity has been a problem for many years. Just another thing Airstream can't be bothered changing. When I went to JC for warranty work years ago, they fixed it. You can either reroute the wires or cover them with something thick enough to protect the wires. Plastic stuff (never have remembered the name) that wraps around works fine and it easy to find with other electrical stuff in aftermarket auto stores and probably at hardware stores.

I'm told solder doesn't last as long as push on, crimped wires. Solder will break as wires flex constantly. I don't have an industrial strength crimper, but the one I do have seems to work pretty well.

Gene

I found this is true as I have had failures of soldered wires but never with crimped. I always pull on wires to see that crimp took as I've had some to not be crimped properly [my fault not crimpers] I also use heat shrink on all butt connected joints.

[mimiandrews]

There's a part of your question no one has answered yet, so I'll try to do so. I realize your problem is solved, so put this somewhere in the back of your mind for future use.

You can splice in a repair on any DC system power wires with the power off. All you need to do to remove power is to disconnect the negative cable from the battery and disconnect your trailer from shore power so that the converter is not feeding the circuit.

Opinions vary as to soldered or crimped connectors being better. I'll leave you to decide that one with the info given above. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

BTW, when working with battery cables, always disconnect the negative side first and connect it last. That way if your wrench hits the frame of the vehicle while you're working with the positive terminal, nothing happens.

Just to ease some of your original concern, I'll offer this:

A short in the breakaway cable wire should not cause the brakes to engage. The nature of a short is to take power away from the unit that circuit operates, not to apply power. If a little theory helps put your mind at ease, that's good. Be aware that it is theory, and that in the real world results may vary

[SteveSueMac]

Thanks, Mimiandrews. I knew that and still didn't trust myself enough to do it. I have to get over this expensive fear 😀

Here's the pic of the finished product with the new BA switch installed, I've covered the harness for it (and the Jack) in that portion of nylon reinforced hose and then ran the umbilical out from the bottom of the propane tanks.