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Old 05-25-2016, 07:12 PM   #15
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[CruizinDux...I was in for warranty work on the jack last week and the power cord fix entered our jack discussion. I finally said, since I don't have a rivet gun (yet) why don't you make some room here past the existing rivets which limit the opening width, re-rivet and make this right which they gladly did.]

As you can see by comparing this to the other pictures, when they cut the opening wider, they cut on the outside of the rivets...plenty of room for the power cord and the jack/BA wring with the OEM protection all wrapped in some bike tubing and zip tied.]

SteveSueMac, nothing wrong with having a good shop step in, especially on the ele. side and certainly not a reflection of anyone's capabilities.

B
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:23 PM   #16
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Looks good! Nice work on the grommet!

I'll snag a pic of the fix tomorrow. They replaced the entire BA switch, replaced 3 frayed wires, put them in a new harness and that is wrapped inside the hose I bought to act as a super grommet as the only cable going through the hole in the tank cover. I'm running the umbilical out the bottom of the cover now. All set to hit the road and I feel more confident that it was done right.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:24 PM   #17
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This design stupidity has been a problem for many years. Just another thing Airstream can't be bothered changing. When I went to JC for warranty work years ago, they fixed it. You can either reroute the wires or cover them with something thick enough to protect the wires. Plastic stuff (never have remembered the name) that wraps around works fine and it easy to find with other electrical stuff in aftermarket auto stores and probably at hardware stores.

I'm told solder doesn't last as long as push on, crimped wires. Solder will break as wires flex constantly. I don't have an industrial strength crimper, but the one I do have seems to work pretty well.

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Old 05-26-2016, 08:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
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This design stupidity has been a problem for many years. Just another thing Airstream can't be bothered changing. When I went to JC for warranty work years ago, they fixed it. You can either reroute the wires or cover them with something thick enough to protect the wires. Plastic stuff (never have remembered the name) that wraps around works fine and it easy to find with other electrical stuff in aftermarket auto stores and probably at hardware stores.

I'm told solder doesn't last as long as push on, crimped wires. Solder will break as wires flex constantly. I don't have an industrial strength crimper, but the one I do have seems to work pretty well.

Gene
I found this is true as I have had failures of soldered wires but never with crimped. I always pull on wires to see that crimp took as I've had some to not be crimped properly [my fault not crimpers] I also use heat shrink on all butt connected joints.
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:30 AM   #19
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There's a part of your question no one has answered yet, so I'll try to do so. I realize your problem is solved, so put this somewhere in the back of your mind for future use.

You can splice in a repair on any DC system power wires with the power off. All you need to do to remove power is to disconnect the negative cable from the battery and disconnect your trailer from shore power so that the converter is not feeding the circuit.

Opinions vary as to soldered or crimped connectors being better. I'll leave you to decide that one with the info given above. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

BTW, when working with battery cables, always disconnect the negative side first and connect it last. That way if your wrench hits the frame of the vehicle while you're working with the positive terminal, nothing happens.

Just to ease some of your original concern, I'll offer this:

A short in the breakaway cable wire should not cause the brakes to engage. The nature of a short is to take power away from the unit that circuit operates, not to apply power. If a little theory helps put your mind at ease, that's good. Be aware that it is theory, and that in the real world results may vary
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:32 PM   #20
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Thanks, Mimiandrews. I knew that and still didn't trust myself enough to do it. I have to get over this expensive fear 😀

Here's the pic of the finished product with the new BA switch installed, I've covered the harness for it (and the Jack) in that portion of nylon reinforced hose and then ran the umbilical out from the bottom of the propane tanks.

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Old 05-26-2016, 07:38 PM   #21
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Breakaway wires frayed- how to repair?

I would buy a new break away switch and splice it in upstream of the damaged area. That way there is only one splice, and no more splices than there was before.


Superat stultitia.

<EDIT,,, NEVER MIND >
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:42 PM   #22
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Breakaway wires frayed- how to repair?

That's what they did J. Morgan. But maybe that's why you edited your post? 😀

Oh - and they used crimps, not solder.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:45 PM   #23
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Lol, I should have read to the bottom before posting.

A "duh moment" for me....


Superat stultitia.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:46 PM   #24
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I've likely had many more than you 😂
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:54 PM   #25
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Your picture shows it to be well protected. Just keep an eye on that hose where it comes under the edge of the metal and replace it if it starts to cut through.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:56 PM   #26
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Breakaway wires frayed- how to repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post

A short in the breakaway cable wire should not cause the brakes to engage. The nature of a short is to take power away from the unit that circuit operates, not to apply power. If a little theory helps put your mind at ease, that's good. Be aware that it is theory, and that in the real world results may vary


This is true to point if either of the wires or even both of the wires had shorted to ground, but if both wires had shorted together and not to ground it would have been the same affect as pulling the breakaway cable thereby engaging your brakes.

If only one wire was bare and you just taped up the whole bundle, all would have been fine.

If both wires were bare and you taped each wire individually and then together all would have been fine.

If both wires were bare in the same spot and you taped them together in such a way that the bare spots would contact one another the trailer brakes would have engaged.



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