JOHNHD
The pin is brass, I sprayed it with Knockerlose and gave it a good hard pull and it came out, no wonder the cable broke. I took a wire wheel to it and cleaned it up, now to put a tester on it to see if it is working. I am going to make a new cable from a bike brake cable that I have on the shelf and use a set of crimp splice blocks that I got at the local farm store.
Additional note of caution. If you have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake control, Disconnect the trailer plug from the tow vehicle before testing the breakway switch or you could destroy the Prodigy controler. This may also effect other brake controls as well.
When checked in California several years ago the CHP disconnected the plug to the tow vehicle and then pulled the breakaway switch pin and had us drive forward to verify the trailer wheels locked.
Andy,
The complete story is we were doing trailer tow testing on I-5 going up Grapevine grade and had a new 30' enclosed box car trailer with Michigan plates being pulled with one of the early Cummins Diesel prototype Dual wheel vehicles. When we passed the truck weight station near the bottom of the grade on the south bound side for the third time that day they chased us down and pulled us over to see what we were doing. They said we looked like a commerical rig and should have stopped at the scale. We had our valid California test permits and exemption from CARB emission rules while testing. As long as they had us pulled over they did a complete safety inspection.
Jim
johnhd
I took the switch (old brass pin type, looks like it as old as the AS) apart by drilling out the rivets and found the contacts had been spread apart from the pin being pushed in, rebent the contacts and it works again. I was thinking of putting a plug on it and unplugging it and pulling the pin when not in use and then connecting when on the road.
i'm a firm believer in keeping things simple, leads to less human error.
i would complete your repair and leave it wired the way it is.
if it screws up again, just replace it. they are common and inexpensive. no one would belittle you for having a non vintage break away switch! it is a safety item, for you and fellow drivers on the road.
if there is any doubt to it's ability to function get a new one!
they make plastic ones that will not corrode.
and you can still get metal ones with the brass pin, except they have added an o ring to the pin to keep water out of the switch when it is installed.
Testing the breakaway switch should be done often.
Pull the pin, pull forward a few feet, and if the switch is working, it will apply full braking. Remember though, you have 5 minutes to reinstall the pin, or you will burn up the magnets.
I found this post during a search and this is exactly what I was looking for. I hope folks don't mind the bump as testing the breakaway switch is not as intuitive as it sounds.
And note what Apple1 says:
Quote:
If you have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake control, Disconnect the trailer plug from the tow vehicle before testing the breakway switch or you could destroy the Prodigy controler.
For those of us who have the new electronic brake controller such as the Prodigy, I would suggest that you make the brake away cable slightly longer than your electrical cord between your tow vehicle and your trailer. You want your cord to seperate before your safety brake cable, to save your Prodigy Controller.
Your electrical cord is going to break either way so why not save your controller.
I don't seem to have a break-away switch. When I bought my '65 Globetrotter, it was advertised: "New axle to add electric brakes". I have the brakes, but is a break-away switch something I need to have put in?
I'm under the impression that electric brakes were not included in 1965, and this was an upgrade by the PO.
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My '66 Overlander came with electric brakes. And I believe your unit did also. I thought hydrallic was stopped in '64. I may be wrong and some one else could verify.
Anyway a break away switch should be mounted on the trailer tongue close to the front. It will have a thin wire cable that is attached to the tow vehicle. Should the tow vehicle and the trailer become seperated the thin cable will pull out a pin. This will activate the brakes assuming you have a working 12V battery on your trailer and it's hooked up.
And if you do not have one, yes you should get one. It is a safety devise and some states require it.
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - towing a - 1966 Overlander International Twin Bed
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Diamond Anniversary 4.6L (275hp), 4R70W - 1990 Ford E 150 5.7L, AOD, 3.73 ____________________________________
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