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Old 01-15-2007, 09:56 PM   #29
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enduroryda Trouble opening the .pdf

Link to the pdf is good. Couple of things to check. Check for any updates for Acrobat. Could be your version is older than the pdf file.
Most versions have an autoupdater under Help, or you can go to http://www.adobe.com/downloads/updates/ to see about an update to your version.
Next If you are on a Windows PC. Hold down the left CTRL key while clicking the link to the pdf file. Keep holding this down till the pdf opens.
(this disables popup blockers for the link you are clicking.)

Best of luck
Alt
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:21 PM   #30
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Well, we accidently tested our breakaway switch one time. I had wound the cable a bit too much around a chain to keep it from dragging. On the trip, we had occasion to make a really tight (and low-speed) turn in a parking lot. Presto. Smack in the middle of the turn, the AS jerks the truck to a dead stop. Sure had us wondering!


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Old 02-09-2007, 10:38 AM   #31
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I have new disc brakes, an actuator, and a new brake-away. I had the RV shop install the brake-away, which I ordered just to be on the safe side. [It's a good thing I got a new one, because upon acquisition it became apparent, my old one didn't have the pin or cable- I never new it should because I had never seen one or read about it.]

My question:

I got the trailer back and the cable is all tied up- in order to unwind the cable I'd have to pull the pin. I haven't done this yet because I have no instructions and wasn't sure I should.
So, with my brake set-up how do you test to be sure the BAway works? And, I assume I can use some pliers to pull the pin out to unwind the cable, and just re-insert????

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:01 AM   #32
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Talk to the RV shop that did the install, and make sure this is ok...

"frying the brakes" shouldn't be a worry with disc brakes. no magnets!
pulling the pin and energizing the system simply turns on the hydraulic brake actuator, which pressurizes the brake lines. when the pressure builds up to its maximum, the pump in the actuator shuts off, and holds the pressure in the lines, keeping the wheels locked; I saw this demonstrated at a recent rally, and it was being used as a momentary "parking brake" during the hitch-up process. (user pulled the pin, backed truck up to trailer, hitched up, then put the pin back in place.) I was told that this was perfectly ok to do with this particular brake system; don't know for a fact that it is "approved" for yours, so confirm w/ the installer.

even w/ electric brakes, its ok to pull the pin, for a few moments. Its kind of required to do this for testing! you just don't want to do it when the trailer's umbilical is connected, as the unregulated voltage on the line could "fry" the brake controller in the truck.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:21 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck

even w/ electric brakes, its ok to pull the pin, for a few moments. Its kind of required to do this for testing! you just don't want to do it when the trailer's umbilical is connected, as the unregulated voltage on the line could "fry" the brake controller in the truck.
This might be something good to go over at the Spring Maintenance Rally....I'm still a little gun shy about doing this even though it sounds pretty basic. I'd rather see someone go through the steps of the actual test before I try it on my own.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:26 AM   #34
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Never pull the pin if your 7 wire cable is attached to your TV. Most brake controllers will fry if you do this.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:36 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Never pull the pin if your 7 wire cable is attached to your TV. Most brake controllers will fry if you do this.
My Prodigy didn't, but I may have been lucky.

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Old 02-09-2007, 11:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduroryda
This might be something good to go over at the Spring Maintenance Rally....I'm still a little gun shy about doing this even though it sounds pretty basic. I'd rather see someone go through the steps of the actual test before I try it on my own.
not much to it. step 1: pull pin.


just don't have the umbilical connected to the tow vehicle. If you can't hear that the brakes are on, use a boy-scout compass held near the wheels, to see if the magnets are energized. If they are, the needle will swing toward the wheel.

Or, you can do it w/ the truck hooked up, (sans-umbilical), and pull forward. brakes should grab within a couple of feet.

when you're done, put pin back in place.

~fine~
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:15 PM   #37
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This is the good discussion from the 'early days' on how long to set the breakaway cable: http://www.airforums.com/forum...able-7308.html

...probably a good idea not to post into a thread that old tho. Do it here. Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2007, 06:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
step 1: pull pin.

when you're done, put pin back in place.

~fine~
WARNING:

Under "NO" circumstances, ever leave the breakaway switch pin pulled more than 5 minutes.

The brake magnet will start to fry after that time. Also, if you want to see how hot the magnets can get, the heat from them can detemper the axle spindles.

Ouch.

No more than 5 minutes.

Andy
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:08 PM   #39
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The prodigy information sheet does say that the break away will damage it
if pulled ,that always bugged me some .at least some have not had this happen with the prodigy .Im hoping Im lucky as well if the pin gets yanked out by mistake.

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Old 02-09-2007, 08:36 PM   #40
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Locking up Brakes on my 73 Sovereign (original brakes)

1. I have never tried pulling the pin. How locked up is the break away switch designed to effect? Should it lock up the brakes into a skid at speed?

2. I can feel when my trailer brakes engage when towing as a tug and a drag on the tow vehicle but I have made a few panic stops and the trailer brakes do not lock into a skid. I have checked the brake pads and they are OK. Are my trailer brakes functioning correctly?
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Old 02-10-2007, 12:53 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
Locking up Brakes on my 73 Sovereign (original brakes)

1. I have never tried pulling the pin. How locked up is the break away switch designed to effect? Should it lock up the brakes into a skid at speed?

2. I can feel when my trailer brakes engage when towing as a tug and a drag on the tow vehicle but I have made a few panic stops and the trailer brakes do not lock into a skid. I have checked the brake pads and they are OK. Are my trailer brakes functioning correctly?
I tried to lock up my 25' Safari a few times at about 25 MPH unsuccessfully. IMO both of your trailers are to heavy to lock them up. Having said that, I have never pulled the breakaway pin to attempt this.
Dave
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrzowt
I tried to lock up my 25' Safari a few times at about 25 MPH unsuccessfully. IMO both of your trailers are to heavy to lock them up. Having said that, I have never pulled the breakaway pin to attempt this.
Dave
"IF" the following are true, the brakes will lock up.

1. The brakes have been properly adjusted, as they do wear in time.

2. The controller is putting out 12 volts DC or more.

3. The wiring on the tow vehicle is correct (wire size etc).

4. Aircraft type terminal connectors are used.

5. The trailer wiring is OK.

Both 10 inch and 12 inch electric brakes, when "properly adjusted", will lock up at 8 volts DC, at the magnet.

Best way to check is connect a DC voltmeter to the wires at one of the brake backing plate assemblies. No need to take a hub and drum off.

Have someone apply full brakes from your controller, with the engine running.

If you read less than 8 volts DC, there is a wiring problem.

If you read more than 8 volts DC, then the brakes are not adjusted properly.

You should read at least 11.5 volts DC, if the controller is putting out 12 volts DC, or more.

The above will take care of about 99 percent of the lack of adequate braking problems.

Andy
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