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Old 10-18-2006, 01:59 PM   #15
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I like the idea of a small, separate 5 AH battery just for the breakaway switch.

The voltage would run down before the spindles or magnets could be overheated.
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Old 10-18-2006, 03:12 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by wkerfoot
Larry,

You can either purchase an new breakaway switch or go to the local hardware store and purchase a piece of wire cable and the clips to make new loops on the end.

Bill
I have used a good heavy fishing leader.

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Old 10-19-2006, 12:24 AM   #17
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Cable attachment?

This may be a dumb question but by the time I meet any of you you will have forgotten that I asked it. So where on the TV is the 'accepted' breakaway cable connection? I hook mine to my TV bumper. I figure one of the several ways to lose a trailer is the hitch separating so I won't hook the cable end to the rings provided for the safety chains.......Oh, I guess I answered my question.
Thanks. Forget that 'I' asked.
Neil.
Oh, by the way my 'defective' breakaway switch (See post "Cooked??") turned out to be a severed onnecting wire.
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:28 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by anholman
This may be a dumb question but by the time I meet any of you you will have forgotten that I asked it. So where on the TV is the 'accepted' breakaway cable connection? ...
NOT a dumb question. Its been discussed before, and like alot of similar issues, opinions vary.
I think it depends on your particular tow vehicle somewhat. The philosophy that the breakaway cable should be connected somewhere other than where the trailer is connected sounds good...but its not so easy to achieve in all cases. The idea is that if the receiver seperates from the truck, and the breakawy cable is connected there, the switch would never be activated. Ok...but I can't even imagine the set of circumstances that would have to occur for that to happen. And with some vehicles, if it DID happen, it would take the bumper with it. have you noticed that with some newer trucks, the bumper actually wraps all the way around the receiver? if that comes off, its going to go straight back, and rip the bumper off with it. connecting the cable to that kind of bumper isn't going to give you any advantage at all.
the reciever isn't just going to "fall off". The only thing I can imagine that would cause it to suddendly become seperated from the vehicle would be an impact so huge, neither tow vehicle or trailer's wheels would be touching the ground, and brakes wouldn't be effective, anyway. Both vehicles would be rolling end over end.

now, the coupler popping off the ball? sure. The single pin holding the draw bar/hitch head in the receiver? yeah, I can see both of those failing. But the receiver isn't attached to the truck by a single, solitary piece of hardware.
still, you never know. my truck was recalled for some kind of potential "fault" in the hitch. The dealer installed different/beefier support brackets to overcome some sort of known weakness. So...I've gone as far as buying and eye-hook to put "somewhere"...its not at the top of my priority list, but I haven't been able to come up with a good spot to attach it on my truck yet. My receiver is below the bumper, but not very far below. an eye-hook attached to the underside of the bumper would protrude down into the path of the exiting receiver. above the bumper would interfere or look funny, or be difficult to attach securely..
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Old 10-20-2006, 07:29 AM   #19
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to the bumper

Neil,
Here's where I put mine. This is a stainless steel eye hook through a hole that was already there. Makes it really easy to hook up and verify prior to driving off.
Marc
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:42 AM   #20
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Neil,
Here's where I put mine. This is a stainless steel eye hook through a hole that was already there. Makes it really easy to hook up and verify prior to driving off.
Marc
Thanks, that's a good Idea. My TV is a '70s car with a very sturdy STEEL bumper. It does wrap down and under so a hole for an eye would work.
Neil.
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:26 AM   #21
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Say yes to the break-away switch

If you ever thought the break-away switch is useless see my recent thread "A little adventure turned into a big one"
the chains broke! and I am glad they did.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...one-27195.html
I test it at least weekly. This is before every trip.
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Old 10-25-2006, 04:09 AM   #22
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Replacement

While on vacation I forgot one time to unhook my cable to the breakaway switch. I was in a hurry and spaced it I guess.

But, I found out that my breakaway switch had a short in it. This had happened sometime inbetween my refurb and now. It kept blowing the 30A auto reset breaker that is inline with it.

I never thought to test it at all until now.

I installed a new one last weekend. Works like a charm !

Now I will check it each trip out ! Lesson learned.
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
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If you ever thought the break-away switch is useless see my recent thread "A little adventure turned into a big one"
the chains broke! and I am glad they did.
Yes, I did read of your "adventure". I am glad you were able to tell about it.
Neil.
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Old 01-12-2007, 10:18 AM   #24
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Question Pulling the Pin and What to Do With the Cables

I’m resurrecting an idle thread here because it seems to be on-topic for something that we were discussing at the recent Florida Can Opener Rally. I found the attached article on the WBCCI web site, and it confirms that the Breakaway Switch cable should be longer than the seven-way cable, which should be longer than the chains. The chains should be crossed under the hitch and ride about five inches above the roadway.

My dealer instructed me to attach the breakaway cable by putting the eye through the chain attach rings, then pull the switch pin and insert it through the cable eye creating a lasso around the chain attachment ring, and then re-insert the pin. Fellow streamers said you should never pull the pin as it can wear out the brake magnets.

First question: My hitch procedure requires me to pull the pin each time I connect and disconnect. Does having the pin out for a few seconds do any harm?

Second question: The attached article says you should pull the switch pin at least four times a year to test the system. The test procedure in the article sounds like the pin would be out for several minutes. Would that do any harm?

I’ve learned from the article and other posts here that the breakaway switch cable should be attached to a non-hitch part of the TV. Attaching it to the chain attach rings (as I was instructed by the dealer), or to the chain’s grab hooks (as I did so as not to pull the pin) is not the correct solution. Post #19 by B25guy in this thread shows his solution, which is to install a ring to an existing hole on the TV away from the hitch.

Third question: What’s the method of attaching the loop in the cable to such a ring without pulling the pin to create a lasso; would a climber’s carabiner or something similar work and be safe?

Fourth and last question: How do you keep the breakaway switch cable and the seven-way cable from dragging the roadway yet free to be able to do their jobs?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Breakaway_Switch.pdf (41.7 KB, 63 views)
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Old 01-12-2007, 10:52 AM   #25
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.pdf file is not opening for me.

I use a carabiner to attach the loop to the frame of my truck. Frame has a couple of holes in it making it a convenient spot to hook up to.
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduroryda
.pdf file is not opening for me.

I use a carabiner to attach the loop to the frame of my truck. Frame has a couple of holes in it making it a convenient spot to hook up to.
Sorry about the file. That's the way it came to me, and I don't have anything that would convert it to another format.

I was thinking a carabiner should work.
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:35 PM   #27
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pdf worked for me....try right-clicking the link, and choose "save file as..." save it locally, then see if you can open it. if that doesn't work....its the Phred-Sez column from the may '06 blue beret...

he left out that you shouldn't try this test of the breakaway switch with the 7-way connector connected to the truck. you could fry your brake controller!

I can't imagine that testing the switch for only a few minutes would cause damage. I think the problem is when someone pulls it on you when you don't know about it, and it just sits there pumping voltage into the magnets for...however long it takes to drain the batterie(S).

Over the summer, I saw a demo of the hookup procedure with a H-A and a trailer w/ the disk conversion...the user used the break-away as a "parking brake", of sorts. The voltage doesn't go directly to the brakes, in this setup; it just goes to the hydraulic actuator, which pressurizes the lines, and the calipers squeeze the discs. when the lines are pressurized, the motor on the actuator shuts off, and the wheels remain effectively locked. this is still without the 7-way plug attached to the tow vehicle; same principle applies...controller could get fried. Anyway, that procedure yields a test of the break-away with every hookup...and since the switch gets excercised, I bet it'll last longer. Thats probably part (if not most) of the problem with these things generally needing to be replaced so often...they freeze up because they never get used.
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:50 PM   #28
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Thanks Chuck...tried that and no go..I can usually open .pdf no prob...
Rrrrrrrrrr


As for the breakaway switch, after I replaced mine the other day I tried to pull out the old pin which I was afraid to test after reading so many posts about it frying your brakes, well guess what...the thing would not move ...even with a needle nose plier wrapped and pulling around the cord! One more reason I'm thankful for the great advice & encouragement always recieved from fellow members to get out and do what needs to be done!
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