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Old 12-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #15
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1978 31' Excella 500
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If you were to mount a small guide for the breakaway cable, like a screw eye on the top of the hitch ball socket, then the distance wouldn't change at all while cornering and you could set your breakaway cable more accurately. I imagine it could be set to trip if the hitch was lifted vertically off the ball which might help if you were going down hill when things came loose and help keep the trailer from over-running the TV. Mine is vacuum operated and engages when the hose is pulled off or in half. The chains would have to break before the brakes activated, i.e. a total disconnect from the TV
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'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncbambi View Post
Hi Bob, what is the hitch lock you have and the padlock on the top of the coupler lock?
Hi, ncbambi. The coupler lock is a Guardian G-37 and in my opinion was the best choice because of the way it locks to the coupler and the round type key. Two things that I didn't like about this lock is the huge letters "MADE IN CHINA" on it and that it was too loose where it slipped onto the Rolled Lip Coupler. I made this lock fit better [perfect] by making a "U" shaped spacer out of a piece of truck tire sidewall and glueing it to the top inside. [see pictue] The rubber made it fit better and protects the coupler paint. As for the Gorilla brand, it is very similar, but one forum member said, it fits too tight on the coupler and you need to grind some metal off of the rolled lip. The Brass latch lock is a Smith & Wesson brand; I bought a matched set [uses the same key] receiver and latch. I think the brass lock is made by one company and a few companies put their name on the same lock.
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:33 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
You do not want the cable to run as shown i your pictures. The switch plunger requires that it be pulled out in a straight line with the body of the switch. The cable wants to be shorter than the chains so it will be pulled tight before the cables reach their extended length.

I route my cable through a the safety pin that secures my tongue latch and then to the receiver. The routing through the insures that if the trailer brakes away the cable will be pull straight away from the switch.

The way your cable was run the cable would most likely not become stretched to a point of releasing the switch. If it did become stretched it would pull at a right angles to the switch and most likely brake the cable before releasing the switch.
Hi, HowieE. I agree with you. This is my first and only trailer and that is how it was setup when I bought it, but deep in my mechanical mind, I wondered how well this would work at these angles and detoured through the chains like that. Then, when I noticed the damaged cable I thought it was time to make a change. So here I am. I also noticed [in a picture] how ROBERT CROSS runs his breakaway cable.
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"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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