Brand new classic with Brake Issues

[Clozzzer]

Hello,

Just purchased a 2016 classic and I am pulling it with a 2014 king ranch f350. The truck has an integrated brake controller.

The range on the brake controller is 0-10. The dealer set truck to 9.5. Even if I squeeze the controller it pulls the idling truck and trailer forward. On my last trailer, a 5th wheel, I could squeak the tires if I held down the controller while driving. This seems strange that the new trialer won't hold brakes while idling.

I'm far from the dealer so driving there is a crappy solution. Should I try to manually adjust the drum breaks myself?

[SpletKay06]

Did you pull the trailer with the same truck? Also have you tried slowing from around 14 mph to see if there working? Most brake shoes need broke in before they reach optimal braking strength.

[Clozzzer]

Originally Posted by SpletKay06

Did you pull the trailer with the same truck? Also have you tried slowing from around 14 mph to see if there working? Most brake shoes need broke in before they reach optimal braking strength.

Yes, the breaks are working, just not locking up.

[Sphere Guy]

Clozzzer,

I have a 2016 28 FC and a Platinum 350. I feel that 9.5 is too high. I set my controller at 5 when in rain and 6.5 in dry weather and high way. Every hookup and set out I test them and get stopping of the TV with out hesitation.

You may want to check you brakes for sure.

[crispyboy]

Sounds like the brakes need to be adjusted and give them time to get seated in the drums.

[overlander63]

I know what the instructions say, but I really don't want or need the trailer brakes locking up when I hit the manual lever. On your truck, a setting of 6.5-7.0 should be more than enough.
If you are in "wide open spaces", hook up the trailer to the truck, back up at a good clip, and apply the trailer bakes until the rig stops. Do this several times, then try going forward and apply the brakes again. On the Classic, the brakes are self-adjusting, and will adjust up when you back up and stop.
When you have done this, and if the brakes still don't feel aggressive enough, pull the breakaway cable, and try moving the trailer. If it won't move, or all 4 wheels are locked, the brakes are working correctly. Don't forget to plug the cable back in, to keep from burning out the magnets, or draining the trailer batteries.

[MelGoddard]

ANDY at CanAm tells to NOT adjust the brakes using the tools and 'star wheel' as being difficult to do and can create other problems. The brakes on my new 30' FC are supposed to be self adjusting, as are most of the larger AS's.
He says to just let them adjust themselves, until perfect.
FYI: He set the gain at 10.0.
And at the moment they done't have much 'grab'.
So I anticipate stops ahead, and coast down.

[J. Morgan]

Sometimes new electric brakes have to "wear in" a bit for them to work well.


Superat stultitia.

[overlander63]

According to a friend that says they spoke to one of the mucky-mucks from Dexter, the brakes are supposed to adjust themselves when the brakes are applied when driving forward.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by overlander63

According to a friend that says they spoke to one of the mucky-mucks from Dexter, the brakes are supposed to adjust themselves when the brakes are applied when driving forward.

That is correct. Trailers don't back as much as cars. The old self-adjusting brakes for cars adjusted when backing. If you Google NeverAdjust Brakes you will find a detailed explanation of how and why the trailer brakes were designed to adjust when going forward. I was looking for distinguishing features of the self-adjusting brakes because I was told that our new (to us) trailer had self-adjusting brakes and never lube bearings. It has neither.

OP:
While your new brakes might not lock up while moving (mine don't with the gain set to 10) they should hold the combination at idle, at least. Find a good spot and do a bunch of stops while going forward at 25 or so and see if they get better. Also disconnect your umbilical cable to the truck, pull the breakaway switch cable out and see if the brakes set by pulling forward a few inches. Put the cable back in right after the test or you may damage the brake magnets.

As I'm typing this I think I remembered that at least some new Classics have hydraulic brakes. If yours does you will need set the brake controller for electric over hydraulic. I have also read of some integrated controllers not working with hydraulic brakes without modifications.


Al

[rbs]

there is some where on your information screen that you can set the response to your braking, I will have to look. Play with it you will find it, I use right in the middle, and i'm sure the default required more effort. I changed mine a 2015 and it works great

[LaBigDogs]

On my 2015 International 27fb the brakes are crappy. I have a 2015 F-150 V-6 for a TV (Gain set to 10) and I can pull the emergency brake plug on the hitch and accelerate normally in 2wd and I can hardly tell that the brakes are engaged. Headed to JC in Aug I am praying they may have a solution. Not keen on mountain travel at this time.

[jim6090]

I think your issue is the truck not the trailer. I believe that the brake controller is very much integrated into the truck. That being said, try engaging brakes at a faster speed. I think you will find they are fine. I've driven well over 100k miles towing with Ford F-250s.

[RVDreamer]

Originally Posted by Clozzzer

Hello,

Just purchased a 2016 classic and I am pulling it with a 2014 king ranch f350. The truck has an integrated brake controller.

The range on the brake controller is 0-10. The dealer set truck to 9.5.

I have a 2013 F-250 Platinum with the same brake controller. I always have mine set between 4 and 6. I can't image setting it at 9.5. Something seems off.

[jim6090]

Fords brake controller is very complex. You can't apply hard braking on the trailer without going fast. I agree with RV Dreamer with 4-6. Try going 50MPH and manually applying the brakes. I'll be they work perfectly. I've towed with 4 different SDs since 2004.

[mhilley]

As usual I have to put my two cents in! brake pads like brake shoes need a wearing in period. Also, try going down a loose gravel road and then apply the brakes. Your helper can tell you if the brakes are locking up. Personally I like to see the trailer brakes lock if you apply the brakes hard, but am sure other opinions are out there.

[J. Morgan]

I towed for about a thousand miles before my brakes started getting worn in enough to work well.




Superat stultitia.

[LaBigDogs]

I have 10,000 miles of towing on my 2015 27fb. How long does it take? Our trailer brakes will not even come close to locking up. I can depart from my driveway with the brake emergency pin out (on the tongue) in 2 wheel drive pulling with my Ford F-150 V-6. It has a little resistance and quickly speeds up and no wheel spin. Dealer said this is normal. Now on my 2011 25fb the wheels on the trailer would lock up, I took this baby across the highest parts of the Rockies with no problems. The 27fb is only #300 more than the 25fb.

[crispyboy]

Labigdogs,

quick test for your brakes:
While in your driveway, pull the emergency brake switch on the tongue, go to each wheel and hold a compass up towards the center of the hub. The compass needle will either go toward or away from the hub. This will tell you that your getting current to each wheel.
Otherwise you may have manual brakes and they may need adjustment. Try these things because they are simple fixes - then look towards the truck.

[Clozzzer]

I know it's not the truck because I towed another trailer(cargo) and was set at 4.