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Old 06-05-2016, 05:18 AM   #15
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Raleigh , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2016
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Fords brake controller is very complex. You can't apply hard braking on the trailer without going fast. I agree with RV Dreamer with 4-6. Try going 50MPH and manually applying the brakes. I'll be they work perfectly. I've towed with 4 different SDs since 2004.

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Old 06-05-2016, 10:14 AM   #16
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2000 23' Safari
Vero Beach , Florida
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Posts: 180
As usual I have to put my two cents in! brake pads like brake shoes need a wearing in period. Also, try going down a loose gravel road and then apply the brakes. Your helper can tell you if the brakes are locking up. Personally I like to see the trailer brakes lock if you apply the brakes hard, but am sure other opinions are out there.

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Old 06-05-2016, 03:00 PM   #17
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Benton , Arkansas
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I towed for about a thousand miles before my brakes started getting worn in enough to work well.

Superat stultitia.
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

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Old 06-06-2016, 06:44 AM   #18
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2015 27' FB International
2011 25' FB International
Carencro , Louisiana
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I have 10,000 miles of towing on my 2015 27fb. How long does it take? Our trailer brakes will not even come close to locking up. I can depart from my driveway with the brake emergency pin out (on the tongue) in 2 wheel drive pulling with my Ford F-150 V-6. It has a little resistance and quickly speeds up and no wheel spin. Dealer said this is normal. Now on my 2011 25fb the wheels on the trailer would lock up, I took this baby across the highest parts of the Rockies with no problems. The 27fb is only #300 more than the 25fb.
"Ferdara" Mark and Michael Broussard-Hubbard
Aluminum pulling Aluminum 2015 F-150 FX4 Platinum, 3.5L V-6, 6.5 bed, 3.31 ratio, Roadmaster Active Suspension ~ 2015 Airstream Custom Ordered 27fb International Serenity - Lafayette Louisiana
WBCCI 11100
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:16 AM   #19
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1994 30' Excella
alexandria , Kentucky
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quick test for your brakes:
While in your driveway, pull the emergency brake switch on the tongue, go to each wheel and hold a compass up towards the center of the hub. The compass needle will either go toward or away from the hub. This will tell you that your getting current to each wheel.
Otherwise you may have manual brakes and they may need adjustment. Try these things because they are simple fixes - then look towards the truck.
Steve, Christy, Anna and Scout (Border Collie)

1994 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley with adjustable stinger

WBCCI # 3072
AIR # 6035
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:32 PM   #20
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2016 30' Classic
Casa grande , Arizona
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I know it's not the truck because I towed another trailer(cargo) and was set at 4.
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:31 AM   #21
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Port Orchard , Washington
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In the last 17 years, I have owned 3 travel trailers ranging from 16 feet to 31 feet. I was never able to lock the brakes on any except the very light 16 foot casita. I know every manual ever printed says to make the brakes lock then back off a bit. However that is often wishful thinking. The best method I've found is to experiment until you find a setting that give a comfortable controlled stop.

Locking the trailer brakes is, in my opinion not a desirable thing to do in any case.

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Old 06-07-2016, 01:21 AM   #22
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1991 25' Excella
Stanfield , Oregon
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Originally Posted by Clozzzer View Post
I know it's not the truck because I towed another trailer(cargo) and was set at 4.
Take it to a reputable RV dealer in your area they should be able to adjust the brakes for you and tell you if theres an issue.
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Old 06-07-2016, 04:54 AM   #23
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North central , Florida
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For best braking, a setting just before lockup is what one wants. That's why we have antilock brakes on cars.
1984 Avion 30p 9.1 meter. 2006 Dodge 3500 cummins srw short bed crew cab.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:04 AM   #24
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2007 27' Classic FB
Ridgefield , Washington
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Probably nothing but is the brake actuator compatable?
John & Lisa
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:25 AM   #25
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2015 30' Classic
Decatur , Illinois
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Posts: 197
adjusting 'trailer brake effort"

If this has already been talked about please excuse,
Go to "Settings" on info screen,
then "Driver Assist"
then "Trailer Brake"
then "Trailer Brake Effort"
I set mine on medium, and pull a 30' Airstream and it brakes great, but will not lockup trailer brakes, which I don't want. Going on 14,000 miles pulling like this, thru mountains, and it does just fine, throw in a couple of panic stops too.
Hope this solves your issue
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:27 PM   #26
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2002 30' Classic S/O
Melbourne Beach , Florida
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I have the same problem with my 2002 Classic 30 slide-out. The integrated brake controller on my Ram 2500 would easily lock the brakes on my 2001 Safari 25 but doesn't come close on my Classic. The Classic weighs 50% more than the Safari, but I have read on here cases of similar trailers that would lock up and some that wouldn't. I have adjusted the brakes and measured the current from the breakaway switch. I am convinced there is nothing electrically wrong with the brakes when fed from the breakaway switch. I still want to measure the current from the truck, thinking maybe there is a bad connection in there somewhere. I should also try to move it with the truck with the breakaway cable pulled.

I don't want it to lock up when driving, that's not the point. I want to get as much stopping power as I can without locking and I'm not convinced that is happening.


"You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"

Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

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Old 06-08-2016, 01:40 PM   #27
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2000 30' Excella
Toledo , Ohio
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If your new classic has disc brakes your controller might not be compatible with disc brakes GM didn't change theirs until 2015 .

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