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Old 03-20-2008, 05:13 PM   #1
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Brake wiring - axle upgrade

I wanted to get your opinions on connecting my brake wires. I just got my new axles and will install them on Saturday, my question is should I stay with using wire nuts to connect or should I solder the wires then cover with shrink wrap?
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:39 PM   #2
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If you want the best connection solder them. However to insure access for testing while on the road I wire nut them. You can lightly tin each wire tip before connecting them for additions conductivity. After wire nutting I wrap the connection with electrical tape and position the wirenut in an up right position and tie wrap it to the spindle. I use a large tie wrap around the spindle and then a small wrap to attach the wirenut to the larger wrap. This prevents water from getting to the connection and provides access.

If you wirenut make sure you uses Ideal wirenuts as they can be undone. Brand X wil brake the wires as you attempt to open the connection.
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:41 PM   #3
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I used soldered crimps on ours. No problems so far.
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:42 PM   #4
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Remembered I had a picture after the post.
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
Remembered I had a picture after the post.
It appears from your photo that the brake wiring is too short.

When the torsion arm swings upward, it will pull on the wire and possible rip it apart.

There should be a much larger loop in the wire that will allow the torsion arm to swing to it's maximum.

it also appears that your backing plates are on backwards, with the right being on the left, etc.

But that also depends on who made your backing plates.

Andy
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Old 03-20-2008, 06:13 PM   #6
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Well Andy those wire have been there for at least 100,000 miles and they are doing just fine. If you study the picture you will see the wire is attached to the swing arm, a factory attachment, and free to flex between the frame grommet and the axle attachment. The total movement in the wire is limited by the original factory design since the have done nothing on the factory side of the arm attachment.
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Old 03-20-2008, 06:21 PM   #7
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if you do use wirenuts may I suggest you use some weatherproof ones with a gel compound inside to stop corosion, they're available at home depot and other hardware stores

a little insurance for the downhill slopes

-Matt
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Old 03-21-2008, 01:46 AM   #8
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Ah yes, I forgot about the weatherproof ones, I think I'll give that a try then check them when I get to the 4CU resto rally. Then I will make the final decision. Thanks for all your input.
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:45 AM   #9
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Marine connectors are also good for this application. What gauge are brake wires?



Ancor

16 - 14 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connectors
Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

The adhesive built into the sleeve heat shrink tubing of these Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink butt connectors shrinks to form a tight seal and the ultimate in vibration and strain relief

Features:Tinned for corrosion resistance
Pure copper for maximum current flow
Brazed seam for maximum strength
Nylon insulator preferred by experts
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Marine connectors are also good for this application. What gauge are brake wires?



Ancor

16 - 14 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connectors
Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

The adhesive built into the sleeve heat shrink tubing of these Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink butt connectors shrinks to form a tight seal and the ultimate in vibration and strain relief

Features:Tinned for corrosion resistance
Pure copper for maximum current flow
Brazed seam for maximum strength
Nylon insulator preferred by experts
Good Find! I was looking for these yesterday. Guess I was too tired. Wires that are soldered in a vibration rich enviroment will break just outside the solder joint. This is why the FAA specs Crimp connectors and stranded wire. It will hold up much longer. The Marine grade ones have something the Aircraft grade do not. The little bit of shrink tubing on the end. I like that.
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Old 03-21-2008, 11:51 AM   #11
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The PO of my TT did'nt do a good job of wiring the brakes. After I started going over everything, found the LF brake shoes we'nt worn as much as the other three. Pulled the break-away pin and found that that brake's magnet was'nt operating. Cleaned up all four brake's wire ends, installed wire nuts and then painted each one with (3M) liquid tape. This can also be done with crimped connectors. Seals everything real good.
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:35 PM   #12
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Where can I get those marine connectors? I'll try them all if I have to.
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfiredog300
Where can I get those marine connectors? I'll try them all if I have to.
Best price I was able to track down.

Amazon.com: Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Nylon Insulated Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connectors: Sports & Outdoors
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:51 PM   #14
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Thanks Ganglin, always a pleasure hearing from ya. That link was what I needed.
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