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03-22-2008, 06:53 PM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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Yes indeed, I do like that idea the best. Thanks for finding them, cuz I got a Lowes real close.
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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03-22-2008, 06:57 PM
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#22
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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ANCOR is superior stuff. I have been using it on cars, etc for about 20-years. A new [4] lamp headlight harness with all ANCOR materials can be expensive by comparison to ordinary automotive grade, but the USCG-rating and general quality has meant I have never had to re-do a harness despite many miles and with a vehicle never garaged.
The one caveat some will bring up is that TXL auto grade has a higher heat resistance. I say, buy a piece of both see what you think.
The WEST MARINE catalog is one I keep in the trailer along with GRAINGER and a bookmark on this machine to McMASTER-CARR, all good sources for small stuff. AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SUPPLY is a fun one (Just check out Tefzel wiring for your next project [gulp]).
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03-22-2008, 07:40 PM
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#23
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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I just called where my A/S and axles are to get the gauge that the wires are. They told me that all the ends either have male or female connectors on them. Do they just plug in or am I supposed to cut the connectors off? Darn, he never did tell me what gauge they were either.
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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03-22-2008, 09:36 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Thought about those also but was not able to find them with the shrink wrap body. They just snap in and out of each other. If you already have those you could always use them and then coat the connections with liquid electric tape (Llowes). Either way will still beat wire nuts and tape in my opinion.
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03-22-2008, 10:52 PM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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well, sounds like liquid tape for me. Hey Gary that stainless light cover looks and fits great. Thanks again.
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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03-23-2008, 10:41 AM
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#26
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfiredog300
well, sounds like liquid tape for me. Hey Gary that stainless light cover looks and fits great. Thanks again.
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You can also use shrink tubing over the entire connection.
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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03-23-2008, 10:58 AM
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#27
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,618
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I had one of my connectors break. Soldered the wires and covered with shrink tubing.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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04-07-2008, 08:38 PM
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#28
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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Well, the axles are in and the brakes are wired. I just did a quick wire nut on the wires temporarily to get it home. Now comes my dilemma.
When I plug in the pigtail my backup lights on the TV come on. With the TV lights off for day driving I have brake and turn signals but when I turn on the lights for night driving I have tail lights and no turn, when I step on the brake the left light doesn't change and the right light goes out completely. all the wiring in pigtail and at the trailer plug work but something fr4om the triler plug back is amiss. Any ideas?
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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04-07-2008, 09:39 PM
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#29
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfiredog300
Well, the axles are in and the brakes are wired. I just did a quick wire nut on the wires temporarily to get it home. Now comes my dilemma.
When I plug in the pigtail my backup lights on the TV come on. With the TV lights off for day driving I have brake and turn signals but when I turn on the lights for night driving I have tail lights and no turn, when I step on the brake the left light doesn't change and the right light goes out completely. all the wiring in pigtail and at the trailer plug work but something fr4om the triler plug back is amiss. Any ideas?
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Battery charge and backup tied together? Chevy or Dodge?
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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04-07-2008, 10:28 PM
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#30
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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Its an 01 Yukon XL, don't know about the other question.
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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04-11-2008, 08:18 PM
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#31
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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I have completed getting the pigtail replaced due to bad connections and seem to have all lights and brakes working. My question is the PO had an additional ground wire hooked up to make the circuit complete for the electric brakes. I know that the yellow wire from the trailer is the brake wire but where should the actual ground be?
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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04-11-2008, 08:27 PM
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#32
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfiredog300
I have completed getting the pigtail replaced due to bad connections and seem to have all lights and brakes working. My question is the PO had an additional ground wire hooked up to make the circuit complete for the electric brakes. I know that the yellow wire from the trailer is the brake wire but where should the actual ground be?
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If the PO hooked up an addition ground wire for the brakes then I can hypothizyze that the PO had brake problems. Rather than fix the problem they by-passed it. By doing this the lights on the trailer probably did not work very well. Use the correct wire for the ground and bond it to the frame and make sure it does not rust/corrode.
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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04-11-2008, 08:42 PM
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#33
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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Yes, originally the lights did not work very well. Where should the actual ground wire be? And what color? Is it at the Univolt?
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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04-12-2008, 04:44 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azfiredog300
Yes, originally the lights did not work very well. Where should the actual ground wire be? And what color? Is it at the Univolt?
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Look for an inspection plate that's about 12" x 12" or so, located in the underbelly, just behind the "A" frame.
You should find all the connections for the 12 volt wiring.
Andy
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04-12-2008, 08:22 AM
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#35
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4 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Surprise
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 346
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Thanks Andy I'll check it out.
__________________
Jerry C.
"Travelstar Galactica"
WBCCI #13317
AIR #25664
Member of the Four Corners Unit
The only true failure is the failure to try.
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