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Old 03-21-2008, 01:47 PM   #15
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We've been using these in the auto repair biz for almost 15 years now. I've found them at NAPA when I need one at home. Might be made by 3M. The ones at the shop come out of Germany and work better in that they don't need as much heat to shrink.
Speaking of which, use a heat gun and not an open flame. You don't need to inadvertantly burn the insulation off a wire.

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Old 03-21-2008, 10:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Where can I get those marine connectors? I'll try them all if I have to.
west marine has them as well. If you are near one you can have them tomorrow.
West Marine: Store Locator
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:48 PM   #17
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Found the 'marine connectors' today at Lowe's - 18 pack - 3 different sizes for 10.00.
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:51 PM   #18
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Found the 'marine connectors' today at Lowe's - 18 pack - 3 different sizes for 10.00.
did they have the shrink tube on the ends? Just because they are marine grade does not mean they have the ability to completely seal out moisture.
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:57 PM   #19
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Yes they did - single crimp spot in the middle. The only thing they didn't have was the "adhesive" the Ancor ones mentioned. Still much better than a wire nut and tape don't we think....
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:01 PM   #20
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Yes they did - single crimp spot in the middle. The only thing they didn't have was the "adhesive" the Ancor ones mentioned. Still much better than a wire nut and tape don't we think....
yes
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:53 PM   #21
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Yes indeed, I do like that idea the best. Thanks for finding them, cuz I got a Lowes real close.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:57 PM   #22
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ANCOR is superior stuff. I have been using it on cars, etc for about 20-years. A new [4] lamp headlight harness with all ANCOR materials can be expensive by comparison to ordinary automotive grade, but the USCG-rating and general quality has meant I have never had to re-do a harness despite many miles and with a vehicle never garaged.

The one caveat some will bring up is that TXL auto grade has a higher heat resistance. I say, buy a piece of both see what you think.

The WEST MARINE catalog is one I keep in the trailer along with GRAINGER and a bookmark on this machine to McMASTER-CARR, all good sources for small stuff. AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SUPPLY is a fun one (Just check out Tefzel wiring for your next project [gulp]).
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:40 PM   #23
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I just called where my A/S and axles are to get the gauge that the wires are. They told me that all the ends either have male or female connectors on them. Do they just plug in or am I supposed to cut the connectors off? Darn, he never did tell me what gauge they were either.
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Old 03-22-2008, 10:36 PM   #24
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Thought about those also but was not able to find them with the shrink wrap body. They just snap in and out of each other. If you already have those you could always use them and then coat the connections with liquid electric tape (Llowes). Either way will still beat wire nuts and tape in my opinion.
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:52 PM   #25
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well, sounds like liquid tape for me. Hey Gary that stainless light cover looks and fits great. Thanks again.
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:41 AM   #26
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Quote:
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well, sounds like liquid tape for me. Hey Gary that stainless light cover looks and fits great. Thanks again.
You can also use shrink tubing over the entire connection.
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:58 AM   #27
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I had one of my connectors break. Soldered the wires and covered with shrink tubing.
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:38 PM   #28
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Well, the axles are in and the brakes are wired. I just did a quick wire nut on the wires temporarily to get it home. Now comes my dilemma.
When I plug in the pigtail my backup lights on the TV come on. With the TV lights off for day driving I have brake and turn signals but when I turn on the lights for night driving I have tail lights and no turn, when I step on the brake the left light doesn't change and the right light goes out completely. all the wiring in pigtail and at the trailer plug work but something fr4om the triler plug back is amiss. Any ideas?
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