Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-21-2004, 05:44 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 70
Brake Wiring

I just finished the brakes and axles on our 61 Overlander dual axle.
I just started the wiring and wanted to get some input from those of you
who have wired their own electric brakes.

Two questions:

1) What type of material have you used to cover (protect) the wires from the elements? ie. plastic tubing, bare wire, etc...

2) What was your wiring route?

I do have a plan of using clear flexible plastic tubing that I've seen on some horse trailers. I plan on bringing all wires to a weather proof junction box mounted on the axle, this will make servicing or rewiring easier down the road. (thanks uwe). Then running my wires to the wire harness from there.

Any suggestion, comments and complaints would be appreciated.

Steve
__________________

__________________
airhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2004, 06:20 PM   #2
3 Rivet Member
 
Silver Bullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 229
Just a suggestion.....

Keep all wires and J box "inside" belly pan. An access door to the J box would help you in the future. Night time road debris (or even day time for that matter) can reek havock on things mounted at roads surface.


Oscar
__________________

__________________
Silver Bullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2004, 08:43 PM   #3
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
brake wiring

I just finished doing mine today. I used 3/8" fuel hose as primary protection, and 3/4" smurf pipe for mechanical protection where the line crosses a 'pocket' I put in when I moved my shocks inside the frame rails.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	brakes004.jpg
Views:	171
Size:	60.6 KB
ID:	7932  
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2004, 09:28 PM   #4
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
The recommended attachment at the axle is a wire nut on each connection, wrapped with electrical tape. This is how Airstream put them together, and how mine still was when I took it apart last fall.

Also, where the wires go through the frame rail to the backing plate, you should put a rubber eyelet in that hole, with the wire running through it.
Terry
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2004, 11:42 PM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 70
Yes, Argosy20 a rubber eyelet is a great idea - will help keep moisture out.

And my wiring also had wire nuts, except without the electrical tape (probably fell off).

Looks great Markdoane, I saw something that resembled the blue flex hose in your photo at Lowe's. It had a threaded end connector that will screw into a "J" box mounted inside the belly. I was thinking of just mounting it on the axle, but I will re-think that and look for a convenient spot in the bell silver bullet.

Thanks for the input

Steve
__________________
airhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2004, 06:43 AM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
IceKing02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 39
Why not solder?

Not to get too picky, but I have an 81' Excella with a conversion to electrical drum brakes. The factory had wire nutted and electrical taped the wires outside the belly pan...and with the road vibration and poor support it ended up dragging behind my AS(S) while driving up the Al-Can. No problem to twist the wires and apply new zip-ties...but I can't see a reason to not solder and heat shrink these connections when doing my resto. Just my two cents.
__________________
"Few things are impossible to diligence and skill" -Samuel Johnson
IceKing02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2004, 07:25 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
TomW's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,918
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by IceKing02
...The factory had wire nutted and electrical taped the wires outside the belly pan...but I can't see a reason to not solder and heat shrink these connections when doing my resto.
In my opinion, a soldered joint, wrapped properly in high quality electrical tape, is the best way to make a permanent connection. In general, I think Airstream used wire nuts everywhere because their installation is considerably faster than soldering.

However, when I replaced my brake magnets, I opted to leave the wire nuts in place because the magnets are a maintenance item, being that their life is only around 20,000 miles. There is not that much wire going to each magnet. Clipping out the soldered joint & making a new one takes some of that wire.

I decided I could inspect the wire caps every year or 10,000 miles since I am supposed to be repacking the bearings & inspecting the brakes at that time.

Tom
__________________
TomW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2004, 11:11 AM   #8
Moderator dude
 
Action's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,067
Images: 13
Soldering is a better joint.

And it's still ok with wire nuts.
It's fast. It's cheaper. It works. And as TC pointed out less wire is wasted when the next magnet is installed.

So soldering would not have an adverse affect. And in most cases it would look nicer.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
Action is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2004, 12:54 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Tom Nugler's Avatar

 
1972 25' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
McHenry County , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,129
Images: 5
Lightbulb

Just a quick thought for those of you how don't like laying on your back having hot solder drip down your arm. There are heat shrink covered butt connectors with a sealer inside available from most auto parts outlets. Strip, crimp, heat, done. The sealer makes then waterproof so no corrosion which can still occur beyond the solder joint when water gets in behind the tape.
Tom
__________________

__________________
Tom Nugler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
trailer side brake wiring diagram? munimula Brakes & Brake Controllers 9 03-26-2017 10:53 AM
Brake Wiring Myrjer Brakes & Brake Controllers 8 04-26-2004 04:55 PM
Hensley Brake Controller $427 New markjoandall Brakes & Brake Controllers 2 11-19-2003 07:47 AM
trailer wiring Cruiser Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 4 09-02-2003 02:43 PM
Electric Brake Wiring JW84345 Brakes & Brake Controllers 3 03-26-2002 10:40 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.