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Old 08-15-2015, 07:44 AM   #15
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I would use a trailer junction box. VTS has a 7-way. eTrailer has a couple of other options/styles. I've installed this on several trailers and often use at work connecting instruments & components to data logging systems when I only have a few wires.

This gives a common point for wires and gives you a place to start when you need to trouble shoot.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:35 PM   #16
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They do not allow more than 3 connections at any one terminal either. The problem isn't that the copper wire gets brittle when heated, more that the stranded wire has a "hard spot" when soldered.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:36 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by prairieschooner View Post
They do not allow more than 3 connections at any one terminal either. The problem isn't that the copper wire gets brittle when heated, more that the stranded wire has a "hard spot" when soldered.

The ABYC ( American Boat and Yacht Council) that produces the E-11 electrical codes for the marine industry calls for a maximum of 4 wires on a terminal block or binding post, the latter being the device I would probably use in this case.

Each wire is crimped into a heat shrink ring terminal with a second layer if adhesive lined heat shrink over that. Then the 4 ring terminals are bolted on to the binding post. The non-conductive base of the post is then screwed into a hard surface like the frame.

Makes a bomb-proof connection that will outlast your trailer ........ And no solder!


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Old 08-16-2015, 11:47 AM   #18
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got a link for such a device?
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:26 PM   #19
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got a link for such a device?
Here ya go: Junction Block Stud Red 1 Stud Thread 5/16-18 250A - 47202
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:27 PM   #20
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Lester, block stud, thanks just what I was looking for, glad you jumped in. I'd think that the extra thickness of the wire end of the crimped on ring would interfere when stacking them on the post, do you simply rotate the wires a little so they don't directly overlap so the ring terminals lie flat? Recommendations on preventing corrosion to the copper wire down in the belly. Thick coat of noox or dielectric grease?
Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:34 PM   #21
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Brake wire junction

Maximum of 4 ring terminals (per ABYC spec. ) per post. You can flip the first up side down with one on top right side up, getting a flat space between the two. Put the next 'pair' slightly rotated to clear the first pair.

I usually spray with Boeshield, Corrosion X or Corrosion Block from NAPA. All work well!!

Oh, BTW, it's leWster....... :-))

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Old 08-16-2015, 10:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
Maximum of 4 ring terminals (per ABYC spec. ) per post. You can flip the first up side down with one on top right side up, getting a flat space between the two. Put the next 'pair' slightly rotated to clear the first pair.

I usually spray with Boeshield, Corrosion X or Corrosion Block from NAPA. All work well!!

Oh, BTW, it's leWster....... :-))

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Sorry I know it's lewster, lew, stupid spell check changed it on me. See you on here all the time with lots of good info.
Found the below, looks like it would be good for 5 wires, maybe not to ABYC spec but possibly RVIA? At least probably for my trailer. I'll sandwich the supply wire between 2 wires above and below so current isn't trying to go through so many connectors either way.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JU...69M2NANAC3CTZZ
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:58 PM   #23
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That would work as well, but you are fanning out the ring terminals. You can use the one I linked to with more wires if you like, it's just not to ABYC, but then neither is RVIA!!
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:38 AM   #24
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I wonder why the factory didn't use this sort of thing in the first place; it looks like it would be not only more secure, but also faster and cheaper than the convoluted system of vampire taps and wire nuts that were used originally.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:01 AM   #25
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I wonder why the factory didn't use this sort of thing in the first place; it looks like it would be not only more secure, but also faster and cheaper than the convoluted system of vampire taps and wire nuts that were used originally.
Because it might eat into their profit margin!!!!
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:08 PM   #26
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Brake wire junction

Bits and pieces end up being among the most expensive parts of a build.

A few dollars here, a few minutes of install time there.... It all adds up, and quickly.

There is always a balance between cost and real value added.

Thrift does not bother me near as much as things that are designed to break at a specific lifespan.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:17 PM   #27
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Sorry, jumped in late. Junction box with stud terminals sounds like the ideal solution.

But just in case you want to go with solder, you have mentioned fluxing then soldering. That sounds like acid core. Most electronic solder has flux in it and will be adequate for clean wires. Do not use acid flux paste. It will wick up the strands, can't be adequately cleaned and will ultimately cause the connection to fail. If you are going to solder, the basics are: clean wires, good mechanical connection, good solder joint (wire must be hot enough for the solder to plate out), protect from the elements, and provide good mechanical support.

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Old 08-17-2015, 12:21 PM   #28
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IMHO a good crimp fitting is every bit as good as a soldered joint and more so.
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