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Old 08-11-2009, 07:37 PM   #15
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Since the brakes got hot enough to do that kind of damage and cause that much heat it my be possible that some of your wiring is also heat damaged. Not only check out the pig tail thoroughly, but also the wiring from the axles to the harness under the trailer.

Also, the heat generated will have crystalized all the steel parts and, if it were me, I would replace the all the brake hardware including the bearings, drums, and maybe even the spindles. At least, check them over for heat checks and cracks very carefully.

Good Luck
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #16
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Wow...you are a lot calmer that I would be in that situation!

You roll into their shop needing new brakes....and roll out with screwed up wiring that engaged the brakes fully!...WHOA...they should redo the entire job as you paid for initially...don't know about Florida, but here in California, when you roll into an automotive repair shop - they make out an estimate for the repairs you request, price it out, and have both parties sign the form, giving you a copy before the repairs begin - it's a contract between the parties that states the amount you are paying for the stated repairs...

If additional work is needed, you are notified and informed of the additional charges and have the right to continue or terminate the repair, etc., etc....the point is, it's a contract - they agree to do the work, and you agree to pay...when they screwed up your brake job, for whatever reason, BEFORE you left their lot, they didn't perform their part of the contract!

Did anyone screw with the brake controller in your TV?

7-way cords have standard wiring connections for RV trailers - how did the AS dealer screw yours up? Don't they know how to wire 7-way cords? That's their business, for god's sake...

How could they do a repair job and not have you hook up your RV and give everything a final check?

I have a small battery shop, and the last thing I do after installing batteries is to start the vehicle to see that everything is working properly, Alternator, etc...takes only a moment, and it's part of the job!

Don't know if you signed a repair 'contract'...but if so, I would demand they complete the work as ordered - but of course, as you have written, that horse is out of the barn now, you got your $ back, and had to go back to square one - EXCEPT they screwed up your wiring - which I think you have a right to demand they fix, no charge...

As much as I dislike situations that may require the services of a laywer, it may be time to consider that option if the dealer is uncooperative...or look to your state's small claims courts as an option...

Any dealer worth it's 'salt' should step up to the bar and make things right for you...there are many, many AS owners that have read your forum posts, and this info could well have a direct impact on this dealers service business in the future...good dealer reputations can be damaged by such actions on their part, and could take years to be rehabilitated...

Never forget that the 'squeaky' wheel (or brakes, in this case) get's the 'grease'...I'd be leaning on these guys...

Hope you get your rig back in good working order soon...in any event, you've now found that rebuilding electric brakes aren't that big a deal if you're willing to get your hands dirty for an afternoon...plus you have the satisfaction of knowing the job is done correctly...check here on the Airforums, there are lots of info to get you through the whole process...

Hope you replaced the seals and bearing, as all that heat propably effected those parts as well, and they are fairly 'cheap' when compared with the whole picture...

Happy Trails...Ray
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Old 08-12-2009, 01:42 AM   #17
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In view of some other comments on another thread here about a new 7-way cord that energized the brake circuit upon being plugged in - earlier trailers had a different hook-up pattern in the trailer end of the plug - that's what most likely caused your problem here...

But I still don't think that lets the dealer off the hook, for not checking things before you left - but I can see where that might be a 'gray' area indeed...

What's puzzling to me is that if your 7-way worked when you drove in to the dealer for the brake job, and then it didn't work later...somethings amiss here...hum...

When I installed my new axles and brakes, I was looking for a way to easily tell that all the brakes were wired correctly and the magnets were energized properly...an Airforum member told me to hit the brakes and hold a compass against the wheels and the needle would swing toward the magnet - worked like a charm!
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:37 AM   #18
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In view of some other comments on another thread here about a new 7-way cord that energized the brake circuit upon being plugged in - earlier trailers had a different hook-up pattern in the trailer end of the plug - that's what most likely caused your problem here...

But I still don't think that lets the dealer off the hook, for not checking things before you left - but I can see where that might be a 'gray' area indeed...

What's puzzling to me is that if your 7-way worked when you drove in to the dealer for the brake job, and then it didn't work later...somethings amiss here...hum...

When I installed my new axles and brakes, I was looking for a way to easily tell that all the brakes were wired correctly and the magnets were energized properly...an Airforum member told me to hit the brakes and hold a compass against the wheels and the needle would swing toward the magnet - worked like a charm!
Yep, that was me who got the miswired pigtail from Out of Doors Mart. When I plugged mine in this last weekend for a trip and put it in drive and applied the gas I knew my trailer brakes were engaged and stopped immediately. As soon as I unplugged my new pigtail my brakes disengaged. I found 4 wires miswired in my pigtail last night. I'll be speaking to the manager later today about this. This is unsat!!
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:06 AM   #19
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I would think that for it to lock up like that ,that the tires would have some flat spots.
I definately would be looking at them. Dave
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:32 AM   #20
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MELLO MIKE--- Was it a private shop or an Airstream shop that installed your 7 wire plug? and why wasn't it checked out upon completeing the work? Seems late in the game to find the problem just prior to a trip.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:06 PM   #21
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I just looked over the wire job, is it normal to run the brake wire along my gas line? it looks like they took the easy way out, I think it would been better if they ran the wire with its own clips away from my gas line. they busted my inspection plate, Also, after months of me putting new LED lights, getting every brake light, blinker lights, running lights to work, After they fiddled with my cable, now nothing works, I have an appointment with Texas Trailers on friday, they will install a brake control system and redo all the wiring Sanders did, I called Sanders Airstream, they said, they were done with me after they gave me my $977 back, and said they do not want to do any more on my rig, I was very polite, thanked them , and now I guess I let the corporate office know what happened.
My only concern now is, I need to hook up a temp emergency flasher lights in the back of my rig for my trip to texas trailer, so thats the latest folks thank you
John
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:37 PM   #22
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John, you may have seen this already from the Airstream, Inc. website, but here is how your 7 should be wired: http://www.airstream.com/docs/7wayplug1966-81.pdf

That assumes, of course, that a PO or the dealer didn't really screw something up big time. I bought a "pig tail" 7 way from NAPA and wired my own based on this diagram.

To answer you question about how the brake line is routed along the gas line, my brake lines are all in the belly pan, NOT the outside of the camper (except, of course, the last foot or so where they connect to the wheel itself).

Sounds like you have a real mess on your hands. Be very careful towing that rascal.

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Old 08-12-2009, 06:22 PM   #23
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MELLO MIKE--- Was it a private shop or an Airstream shop that installed your 7 wire plug? and why wasn't it checked out upon completeing the work? Seems late in the game to find the problem just prior to a trip.
Hi Airhouse,
Actually, I ordered the pigtail online from Out of Doors Mart. I installed it myself, you simply plug it in so there's no installation really involved. Luckily I kept my old pigtail which looks awful but is functional this last weekend.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:11 PM   #24
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Thank you Jim, That is a very good diagram, I will go check my plug now, I wonder if they messed with the other side of the cable too.
John
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:02 PM   #25
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Mello Mike Thanks for the get back. See, I can even learn from asking dumb questions!!! Anyway glad to know that. I'll take 10 lashes with a wet noodle.
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:00 AM   #26
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John...your situation is confusing...did you not have ANY brake wiring on your trailer when you took it in for the 'brake work'.?

for electric brakes, there are two wires from each hub that are normally routed up into the belly pan. From there they are consolidate so that the 'actuator' wire goes forward to the 7-way socket in the front of your trailer.

The only brake wire that may be next to the gas line (that's exposed) is the wire from the breakaway switch near the hitch coupler that's energized when the switch pin is pulled out...and I don't see any problem with this stock type of routing the brake wire as long as it's not subject to any chaffing...

In my way of thinking, the trailer wiring part of the 7-way socket wouldn't be modified by the dealer....they may have moved some of the wire connections in the actual 7-way cable you provided (the new one) to account for your current problems -

However, I'm still hung up on why everything worked when you drove in, but not when you left...did you replace the 7-way cord with the new one AFTER they did the brake job? If so, then the 4 incorrectly connected wires in the new cord are the cause of your problems - you only have to reroute the wires on ONE END of the cord...

I'd plug the cord into my tow vehicle, then using a multi-meter, find which wire does what and wire the trailer end of the plug accordingly to the Airstream 7-way diagram for your year's model...

Another thought, the incorrect wiring could have blown several fuses in your trailer's fuse panel - have you checked them yet? Don't overlook the large fuses for the battery circuits...you may have a circuit breaker for the electric brake circuit - check it out also - they also wear out du eto heavy use as well...

Good luck...let's get your AS back on the road!
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