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Old 04-10-2019, 08:03 AM   #21
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2007 30' Classic S/O
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Brake issue

Perry,

Creola’s second pic shows normal new. Star wheel adjuster with spring holding shoes against notched ends of adjuster and adjustment lever arm resting IN a tooth of star wheel on back side of adjuster lever.

Point of failure? Not sure. Don’t want to speculate on what I can’t prove.

Gary
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:07 PM   #22
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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after returning home from a 13K mile Key West trip, pulling away from a stop light near the house, I thought I heard some metal to metal also low speeds. Tapped the brakes and no M to M....she stopped fine.Since I was planning another brief trip to Ca Central Coast, I thought I'd better check it out and while their do a repack (fresh repack just before the FL trip).

Dropped my my local hitch Pro and they pulled the drums. One side was normal but the other the adjuster had dropped and it rolled out on the ground. They ordered the new kit from Dexter.

When I got home I noticed this reasonably recent thread...sounds familiar

The new adjuster was installed today. A closer look at the failed part revealed a severely weakened spring that holds the adjuster in place.

I think I know when it occurred (Key Largo when braking hard for a yellow...one if the very few traffic lights in the keys until you get to key west!) I tested the brakes then and followed up on the trip but all seemed to be functioning as expected. Never hear the tell tale sign until I got two blocks from home

Someone mentioned checking the adjuster from the back of the drum which is good advice.

Apparently only a kit is available so now I have a spare DS adjuster etc.


b


hmmm, just noticed I need to check my shocks.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:49 AM   #23
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Having gain set too high might contribute to this.



Perry
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Old 04-26-2019, 04:19 PM   #24
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Perry, Thanks. By gain are you referring to boost? I have a P3 Tekanosha and it has a power adjustment, per the manual to be set just below the lock up point. It has been a while since I've calibrated by the manual knob. Sounds like it is time. However they have always braked evenly and never locked up.

It also has boost settings and after rereading the manual think I'll dial that back a notch. I have upped it in times of heavy stop and go traffic and maybe forgot to lower it.

Bob


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Having gain set too high might contribute to this.

Perry
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:16 AM   #25
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Gain is the lockup threshold. Run the trailer at about 25MPH. Apply full brakes with the lever and keep turning up the gain till you just get lockup, then back off a little. Boost applies the brakes a certain percent as soon as you hit the pedal then it is supposed to be proportional to braking loads based on g-loads. Too much boost in heavy traffic can cause overheating. When you feel the trailer grab a lot then you are probably too high on boost or gain or both. Also if you stop and the wheels are too hot to touch, you got a problem. Get some spare springs, they are pretty common items.



Perry



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Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Perry, Thanks. By gain are you referring to boost? I have a P3 Tekanosha and it has a power adjustment, per the manual to be set just below the lock up point. It has been a while since I've calibrated by the manual knob. Sounds like it is time. However they have always braked evenly and never locked up.

It also has boost settings and after rereading the manual think I'll dial that back a notch. I have upped it in times of heavy stop and go traffic and maybe forgot to lower it.

Bob
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:06 PM   #26
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Perfect Perry, thanks. I checked today and I'm either just below the threshold or less. I'll tweak it tomorrow before departing as there is a huge parking lot at the RV park casino in Corning.

I've backed down on the boost to B1 (0,1,2,3) a couple of days ago and will try 0 tomorrow. I'll note the temp too.

Are you saying springs are generic. I understood dexter only sold them as a kit..l or r. Maybe I'll call NAPA when i get hime. Maybe dexter too. Agreed after this thread, i would love to carry a spare set.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Bob


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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Gain is the lockup threshold. Run the trailer at about 25MPH. Apply full brakes with the lever and keep turning up the gain till you just get lockup, then back off a little. Boost applies the brakes a certain percent as soon as you hit the pedal then it is supposed to be proportional to braking loads based on g-loads. Too much boost in heavy traffic can cause overheating. When you feel the trailer grab a lot then you are probably too high on boost or gain or both. Also if you stop and the wheels are too hot to touch, you got a problem. Get some spare springs, they are pretty common items.



Perry
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:39 PM   #27
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Most likely you can go to an autoparts place and match up springs. Might find an assortment kits. Go to Amazon and type in brake spring kits.



Perry
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:39 PM   #28
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The star wheel on one of our wheels came loose on our very first long trip. Made a hell of a racket! It seems to be a common issue for some reason . . . but easliy fixed.
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:50 PM   #29
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Hi

At this point I've replaced just about all the parts on my Dexters. If you talk to somebody who services this stuff .... AS is *not* the only outfit that has issues with Dexter brakes ....

Bob
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:05 PM   #30
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FWIW, great post by op.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ml#post2236774
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