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Old 06-21-2010, 08:57 AM   #1
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Brake/ Hub temp question

So I have solved many issues with the brakes as well as repacked the bearings.

My question is this... I drove for 15miles at 45mph average with a top speed of 60mph. I drove this distance with the brake controller set to 0.0. After this drive the temp on the hub/drum was 118oF - 134oF. Should I be concerned with this temp range?
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:12 AM   #2
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Can't say with what you have provided.

To test this type of question you want to drive on an Interstate for 20 miles or so and Coast to a stop, do not use the trailer brakes. A hill top rest area is great if you can find one. Now measure the hub temperature. Any temperature you see at this point is bearing temperature and that should not be as high as you were reading.

The readings you gave if you stopped with the trailer brakes or used the brakes just before stopping that is not out of the question as the drum temperature will transfer to the hub area quite quickly.

If I can not hold the hub cap with bare hands after a coast to stop then I get concerned.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:17 AM   #3
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Probably you are ok. I assume it was hot outside since you are in FL. You might also notice the hub / tire temps are warmer on the sunny side, I have checked temps with an infra red thermometer, but it was usually after braking as I was trying to get a feel for eveness and the temps were quite a bit higher.
Be interesting if some one else has some numbers. I get mine by shooting through the holes in the wheels onto the drum
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:18 AM   #4
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Hot enough to be concerned? - I would say yes -

Did you turn the drums?? The twenty bucks or so to turn each one is money well spent any time you have the drums off.

I experienced a couple of "hot hubs" after losing (exploding) another of those Friggin Frakken ST tires.

Found the brake (magnet) wire in the exploded hub was torn and making contact with the drum.

Also found about a handful (2 or three tablespoons) of brake dust in each hub - that may have been enough to "drag" the brakes -

Definitely reset the star adjustment wheel - back off the adjuster until you eliminate all drag.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:44 AM   #5
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Hard to say. I've experienced the sunny side hotter too. You probably experienced picking up a tool out of the open toolbox on a hot day..too hot to hold. Ambient temperature and temperature of pavement factors in. 134 does sound a bit hot if the ambient temps and pavement were cool.

I'd lift the trailer with bottle jack and check the bearing play frequently until you're sure everything is OK. I just did mine and am planning a short shakedown trip with this test when I return. A big dose of bearing play is sure sign something is amiss. The should be the teeniest amount of play at outer edge of the wheel when set bearing correctly, where just one more hole on the castle nut would eliminate it. At that time you can also check your brakes for drag.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Can't say with what you have provided.

To test this type of question you want to drive on an Interstate for 20 miles or so and Coast to a stop, do not use the trailer brakes. A hill top rest area is great if you can find one. Now measure the hub temperature. Any temperature you see at this point is bearing temperature and that should not be as high as you were reading.

The readings you gave if you stopped with the trailer brakes or used the brakes just before stopping that is not out of the question as the drum temperature will transfer to the hub area quite quickly.

If I can not hold the hub cap with bare hands after a coast to stop then I get concerned.
HowieE,

I did not use any trailer brakes on this entire run of 15 miles however the outside temp was 100oF. are these still not acceptable temps? I know that they would at lease be 100oF if there were no movement at all.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by tpi View Post
Hard to say. I've experienced the sunny side hotter too. You probably experienced picking up a tool out of the open toolbox on a hot day..too hot to hold. Ambient temperature and temperature of pavement factors in. 134 does sound a bit hot if the ambient temps and pavement were cool.

I'd lift the trailer with bottle jack and check the bearing play frequently until you're sure everything is OK. I just did mine and am planning a short shakedown trip with this test when I return. A big dose of bearing play is sure sign something is amiss. The should be the teeniest amount of play at outer edge of the wheel when set bearing correctly, where just one more hole on the castle nut would eliminate it. At that time you can also check your brakes for drag.
Sounds like i may have overtightned the bearing nut. I tightned it finger tight and then used a wrench to get to the next slot for the key way.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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WE are heading for the birthday bash , leaving tomorrow. I will try to get some actual hub temps with and with out braking over the next few days.
They should not be uncomfortably warm when you touch them . If you use the brakes, don;t touch the drum, or do it carefully
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:34 AM   #9
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Sounds like i may have overtightned the bearing nut. I tightned it finger tight and then used a wrench to get to the next slot for the key way.
That probably is too tight . I bring them down lightly snug with a pair of pliers and then back off one slot.
The Dexter site has a book you can download with instructions.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:42 AM   #10
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Not a trailer but a MH. After my brakes failed. Shooting each wheel with an ir thermometer all showed about 100 except one at 300, made troubleshooting easier. If any wheel has a significantly different temp at the axle would be a good indicator. I have found sunny side will be higher by 10 degrees, so your 20 degrees is a little high but would do it again before I would pull wheels on my MH. If I had a trailer I wouldn't worry too much but just do it for general maintenance.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RickDavis View Post
WE are heading for the birthday bash , leaving tomorrow. I will try to get some actual hub temps with and with out braking over the next few days.
They should not be uncomfortably warm when you touch them . If you use the brakes, don;t touch the drum, or do it carefully

Rick,

Thanks for taking time from your day to do this. I really appriciate it.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:07 PM   #12
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Does anyone know if there is an easy way to back off the adjuster short of taking the hub and drum off?

I know that on one of the brakes I have a warped drum.(.095") I am really just trying to make sure I can get from Tampa to Atlanta ok and with out issue and then back. I don't have a ton of money to dump in to it before the trip but after i get back i was going to get the never adjust backing plates and new drums.
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:16 AM   #13
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There should be a small horizontal slot near the bottom of your backing plate with a rubber plug in it. Remove the rubber plug. There is a special curved brake tool for this purpose but a medium size screw driver will suffice.
The "star wheel" is directly inside this slot. Front of slot on the left side of trailer (looking forward) and Back of slot on the right side. The screw driver applied at a upward angle rotating it down should be loosening or freeing up the shoes inside the drum.
Ideally you should have the tire elevated so you can spin it and have it hooked to the tow vehicle so you can have the brakes center the shoes after each round of loosing or tightening.
I always back mine off enough to not get any significant drag as the wheel rotates and yet can lock the wheel under hard braking if I need to.
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Old 06-22-2010, 05:35 AM   #14
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The "star wheel" is directly inside this slot. Front of slot on the left side of trailer (looking forward) and Back of slot on the right side. The screw driver applied at a upward angle rotating it down should be loosening or freeing up the shoes inside the drum.
Ideally you should have the tire elevated so you can spin it and have it hooked to the tow vehicle so you can have the brakes center the shoes after each round of loosing or tightening.
I always back mine off enough to not get any significant drag as the wheel rotates and yet can lock the wheel under hard braking if I need to.
The direction to loosen or tighten may vary depending on previous assembly when serviced. With the wheel elevated I usually adjust until the wheel won't turn, then back of around 10 clicks. Some of the dragging noise you hear when spinning the wheel is from the magnets which are lightly pushed against the armature by a spring
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