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09-16-2019, 06:32 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2000 31' Excella
Ontario
, Canada
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 215
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Brake fluid lines need to be checked NOW
I have a 2006 classic 31 with the electric/hydraulic brakes. Was under the trailer looking at propane lines when I noticed the break lines. Looked OK until a saw the line coming near the wheel assembly/chassis frame. The brake line was right up against the steel and had worn away the line too far to be safe. One leak and all 4 wheels would have no braking. So needs to be examined very thoroughly from end to end and maybe replaced? What are these lines made of? copper? steel? What is lifespan for these?
Thanks
Woody
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09-16-2019, 07:06 PM
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#2
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Woody,
Same components as used on pass cars and pickup trucks. Steel lines with double flares and brake brake hoses when the connection has to move like from frame to rotor and hub.
Not sure if you know but the hoses were subject to a recall to make them longer.
I saw a recall installation where the hose was twisted and rubbed on the frame as the wheel moved up down. It can usually be carefully rerouted.
Any pics?
My 2007 has Dexter disc brakes comments based on hands on work.
Gary
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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09-17-2019, 07:26 PM
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#3
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,508
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Never ever use copper with a brake line!
Steel only.
>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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09-17-2019, 08:04 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
2000 31' Excella
Ontario
, Canada
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 215
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Thanks folks for your replies. I'm currently trying to find why my trailer batteries are not charging when travelling. I'll take a picture when I have a chance to check out the rest of the STEEL brake lines. I have also sent an email to customer service in Jackson Center to see if my trailer had all the recalls checked.
Woody
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09-18-2019, 04:54 AM
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#5
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Woody,
The one trailer I worked on post recall had the hose rubbing on the frame also. Caught it early and a bit of tweaking took care of it. I had already made up my own hose reconfig on my rig, all brake line automotive components.
The original line config was all hose from steel line or trailer T to the caliper and it was short, kinked at caliper. The new design is longer a bit and has a short length of curved steel tubing at the caliper end of the hose and has a flare nut going into the caliper. The original hose screwed directly into the caliper. Having the nut on the flare feeding the caliper is a HUGE assist in bleeding these properly. It allows bleeding inboard caliper half in addition to outboard with it's bleed screw. And the longer hose with curved steel took care of the kinking.
Gary
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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09-18-2019, 10:58 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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I also wrapped the new longer hose with a piece of fuel hose, split lengthwise and zip tied in place, in the area where rubbing the frame could occur during travel.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-19-2019, 12:18 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
2006 30' Classic
Bullhead City
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2
Woody,
The original line config was all hose from steel line or trailer T to the caliper and it was short, kinked at caliper. The new design is longer a bit and has a short length of curved steel tubing at the caliper end of the hose and has a flare nut going into the caliper. The original hose screwed directly into the caliper. Having the nut on the flare feeding the caliper is a HUGE assist in bleeding these properly. It allows bleeding inboard caliper half in addition to outboard with it's bleed screw. And the longer hose with curved steel took care of the kinking.
Gary
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Gary, are you saying the replacement hose for the recall had the curved steel tubing at the caliper? I checked mine and it looks like they installed a slightly longer hose but it is rubber all the way. Can you post a pic or suggest a source for what you are describing? My lines were touching the plastic inner fender shroud but now with the lift kit installed they touch the frame. I installed plastic wire loom covers with zip ties for extra protection but your suggestion sounds like the best solution. My recall was performed by a local repair facility recommended by Airstream since my dealer had gone out of business at the time of recall.
As usual, thanks for your help.
-Gary-
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09-19-2019, 12:45 PM
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#8
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Gary,
Sorry, I used up all my pic space here but I can email you pic of an OE short line I too off of my rig and a recall line that didn't survive tweaking and I had to replace it.
My OE line is all rubber straight and total OAL about 14 1/2".
The recall fix line is rubber and has a short steel section 90 degree bend going into the caliper total OAL about 18".
The rig that I worked on for a friend also had a lift kit and we didn't have any length issues and it only needed tweaking after the axles were replaced and they routed the hose rubbing the frame.
Thats where the recall line has a shortfall again. You tighten one end into the trailer T and then the line must be pointed so the steel 90 points into the caliper, slightly off and they twist the line to make it fit.
The lines I made up used a section of hose was straight and I used a coupling and short steel line that I bent to make my own.
ALL COMPONENTS are brake line and hoses from automotive applications.
Gary
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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09-21-2019, 07:35 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
2000 31' Excella
Ontario
, Canada
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 215
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I'm learning a lot from your posts about the new hoses for the brakes. Haven't heard back from A/S about my trailer having all the recalls done. But it would seem that some checking on the brake lines at the wheels would be in order.
I just finished the propane line addition. Could not help but notice that the steel brake line and the aluminum underbelly do not get along well. They are places where the aluminum has holes from the steel interaction. I guess that some rubber insulation might have helped. I'll add some small hose over the steel in some places.
Thanks for all your input.
Woody
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09-22-2019, 06:24 AM
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#10
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Woody,
This thread is my write up on MY hose / line config I installed. http://http://www.airforums.com/foru...ime-96724.html You might have seen it, not sure but I tried to show the short line and my version of the line. One thing my version offers it that it does not have the same hose must be here orientation as factory line. With the coupling between hose and line I have easy tightening and routing control.
Gary
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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10-13-2019, 02:34 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
2000 31' Excella
Ontario
, Canada
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 215
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Well after several tries it seems that my trailer didn't have all the recalls completed with the braking system. Actibrake pump was checked over and deem to be OK. Seems there are 2 pumps with this unit and I had the revised model. Works fine as far as can tell.
But the brake hose recall was not done. So local AS dealer has ordered the replacement parts and a fix is on the way. They will also replace the part of the brake line that was rubbing against the steel wheel assembly.
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10-14-2019, 11:48 AM
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#12
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Site Team
2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere
, South Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodytwo
Well after several tries it seems that my trailer didn't have all the recalls completed with the braking system. Actibrake pump was checked over and deem to be OK. Seems there are 2 pumps with this unit and I had the revised model. Works fine as far as can tell.
But the brake hose recall was not done. So local AS dealer has ordered the replacement parts and a fix is on the way. They will also replace the part of the brake line that was rubbing against the steel wheel assembly.
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Good get new lines and be very aware of brake response, delay that is more than 1/2 sec is most likely air that they didn’t get out.
Inside caliper half and outboard must each be bled. Inside uses the line nut to vent air.
__________________
S/OS #001 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Dexter 4 Piston Disc Brakes, Carslile Actuator, Equal-I-Zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook. BMV-712. DEMCO 21K Lb Cast Iron coupler
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