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Minnie's Mate · 06-13-2006, 09:35 AM

I have a 2005 F-250 with the Tow/Haul package and factory trailer braking package. As I understand it, the built in trailer brake system is manufactured by Tekonsha and is different in that there is a sensor in the master cylinder that controls the trailer's brakes. The added benefit is that when the anti-lock brake system activates, the trailer brake controler will also pulse the trailer's brakes to prevent them from skidding. It ties the two brake systems together making them work in harmony. (Sounds good anyway.) The system worked great on the voyage home. Anyway, my point was supposed to be that I would recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy since Ford selected Tekonsha to manufacture their built in system and the truck is already pre-wired for that brand.

As far as transmission temp guages, sorry I can't help you their. My F-250 came with one from the factory.

bake315 · 06-13-2006, 09:54 AM

My present truck has one standard, but when I towed a large pop-up with a Cherokee, I used Auto Meter's Ultra-Lite Pro Comp temp gauge with a pillar mount. Worked very well for me, and not too hard to install.

Here's a pic showing it while heading up Wolf Creek Pass.

dmac · 06-13-2006, 10:59 AM

bhayden,

Your description of your brake controller seems to define the problem you are having! Your simpler controller has no idea how hard you are braking, so therefore you are having to adjust it manually. This does not seem like a good solution to me.

Regarding your question about braking down a long grade with an inertia based controller... remember that the inertia controller "knows" that your foot is on the brake because of the brake light circuit, it also "knows" how long you have been applying the brakes (just like your time based unit), and it has the additional information that you are braking lightly. Overall, it works!

TIMEMACHINE · 06-13-2006, 04:28 PM

Its Prodigy for me. Has worked great for 10,000 miles during our recent 27 state journey. I have a 2005 F250 and a 25 Safari FB SE, and as previously mentioned, Prodigy makes a direct connect harness for the Fords which took me about 15 minutes to install. It worked perfect right out of the box.

SilverToy · 06-13-2006, 04:55 PM

Hello all -

Reading the thread with interest. The trans gauge issue got me to thinking....

Is the factory gauge calibrated? I am thinking it should be more or less right on... but then if you don't ask, you might not really know...

I have some serious grades getting back up to the house (7300ft) and 2 sections are over 12% - one is actually 15%. The tranny really hates those sections..... Temps DO come up. My wonder is where they really actually go...?

Does anyone know of a larger trans cooler that would be a bolt on situation. Have an 01 2500 HD Burb with factory tow set up.

Thanks for any and all help.

Axel

scottanlily · 06-13-2006, 11:17 PM

Hello dmac,

What I described is that on a decent long steep grade ,apply the brakes and the rig slows ,but raise the gain on the controller to increase the power to the trailer brakes ,seems the pendulem does not see the slowing as significant enough as the voltage numbers on the readout do not show a big increase as on a normal stop on the road .bhaydens idea sounds right at least by what is happening .My local rv guy said set it and forget it as you have ,but I think somthing is wrong in the unit,works great all other times .The brakes are appling on the down grade but not enough .I have not used the boost settings yet .

Thanks for the input

Scott

bhayden · 06-14-2006, 12:29 AM

I think the factory setup that monitors the actual hydraulic pressure is the only system that's going to work correctly in all situation without adjustment. With what I know now I'd probably opt for the inertia style controller and manually apply the trailer brakes on long down grades.

I suppose it's a liability thing that no one has an aftermarket controller that monitors the hydraulic pressure. It seems the next best thing would be to make it speed sensisitive. That would require a monitor akin to the aftermarket cruise controls or tapping into the cars computer. Don't know if it would be legal but all that information is available on modern vehicles with OBDII.

-Bernie

BillTex · 07-03-2006, 05:56 AM

Does any one know if the wiring harness from my 04 Suburban is the same for the 06 Silverado 2500 HD?

I checked the Tekonsha site, but they only list up to 04. They are closed untill Wed...

Also, I remember having to do something with a fuse under the hood when I installed it on the 04. Could not find the instructions for that either. Any remember what that was all about?

Thanx, Bill

**azflycaster** · 07-03-2006, 06:06 AM

Bill ~ I think that the GM cable kit works on 03's to the current models. I remember several threads that talk about fuses in GM trucks, they had to do with the line that charges the battery from the truck. It seems that GM left that fuse out and trailers batteries were not getting charged.

BillTex · 07-03-2006, 06:53 AM

Thanx, yes as I remember there is a fuse to replace a "dummy" under the hood...

davidz71 · 07-03-2006, 09:44 AM

The fuse in my '01 2500hd is a 40 amp that must be plugged in to power the brake circuit.

CanoeStream · 07-03-2006, 06:51 PM

Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.

lewster · 07-03-2006, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidz71

The fuse in my '01 2500hd is a 40 amp that must be plugged in to power the brake circuit.

First thing I would do is dump that fuse and replace it with a similarly rated auto-reset circuit breaker! If that fuse blows for any reason and you need your trailer brakes.....THEY WON'T BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have great difficulty believing that GM would equip any vehicle for towing with any type of fuse in the trailer brake power circuit.

The auto-reset breaker will at least pulse the brakes if you have an over current situation. A blown fuse will do NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!

BillTex · 07-04-2006, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canoe stream

Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.

Thanx Bob

BillTex · 07-06-2006, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canoe stream

Here is a pic of the 40A fuse installation. This fuse was taped to my OEM '06 GMC 2500 pigtail and my local dealer's diesel mechanic showed me right where to put it. As you say, there was a dummy plastic insert before I put the pictured fuse into position. This is in a fusebox at the top left edge of the front quarter panel, right behind the main battery. Front is to the left. See this post.

Hi Bob, do you know if that was the second fuse slot from the left?
I believe the first slot is blank?

Can you confirm?

New truck is due today and we leave tomorrow!

Thanx, Bill

pmclemore · 07-06-2006, 11:58 AM

Davidz71 -

I had a different experience with the fuse in my 2004 Chev Silverado 2500. It was over a year before I discovered that there was only a dummy fuse in its place. During that time, my brakes and everything worked properly - what I was missing was the 12v hot line to the trailer. This was why my trailer battery would not charge even after a long day's travel - and I found myself with absolutely no battery during our last night in the Smokies. Once I found the fuse and installed it, the only thing the fuse did was send power to the 12v hot line to the trailer.

Pat

Loren · 07-06-2006, 08:13 PM

tslanier,

I wouldn't want you to think that we are all of one mind about this issue, and I'll admit that I have never tried a Prodigy.

I have NEVER heard of anyone who has tried a BrakeSmart say that he would ever go back to anything else. That's true for me too.

I installed a BrakeSmart a couple of years ago and the trailer "disappeared". When stopping, it was like the trailer was not there. The only disadvantage I see to a BrakeSmart controller is that it is about twice as expensive as whatever controller is in second place. I think mine was about $350 or so.

I installed mine myself, but unless you are comfortable about working on your brake system you should have it done professionally. My truck has four-wheel ABS and that system still works just as it did when new. There are no problems with tapping into the brake hydraulic line as long as the system is bled properly and the fitting doesn't leak -- two easy items to check.

You will not be disappointed with a BrakeSmart controller.

Loren

AgZep · 07-06-2006, 09:53 PM

Another vote for the Brakesmart.

bhayden · 07-06-2006, 11:47 PM

Stay away from the Time delay controllers like the Hoppy. If I'd known better I'd have never bought it. So much for trusting the RV dealer. The other interesting design I'll throw in the mix is the Jordan.